Cleaned out the intercooler and checked the turbo for shaft play. There was no shaft play at all havent had time to put everything back together to see if this changes anything with the engine.[/align]

 

Ok got everything put back together and im still having the engine stall. while the enging was smokine from the oil on the wet test i noticed that there was an exhaust leak where the turbo bolts up the the exhaust manifold. Could this cause a boost leak causing my problems?[/align]

 

any info on 2.0 cyclone nonturbo motors difference to american motors

 

well ur motor will run bad if u got a leak there fix any boost leaks.... and that was a failed post above me xD as for turning off maybe idle speed motor or senser.. do u hav ea check engien light on?

 

Ok i have gotten the car to stop stalling it happened to be the BISS screw, I got a new one and put it in and the stalling has stopped. But im still having issues with an unstable idle and acceleration hesitation. I checked the CEL codes and i am coming up with codes; 13 (Air Intake Temp Sensor), 14 (Throttle Position Sensor), 21 (Engine Coolant Temp Sensor), 25 (Barometric Pressure Sensor), and 31 which i do not know yet.

I have tested the Air Intake Temp Sensor and the Throttle Position Sensor and they test out fine, I have also replaced the Engine Coolant Temp Sensor about a yr ago. Could this mean that i either have a bad engine wiring harness or a faulty ECU? I checked the ECU for leaky caps and i didnt notice anything.

I have another ECU but it is an Eprom and it is set up for a bigger turbo and bigger injectors. would it work to just try the other ECU to see if it brings up any codes. Or would it be bad to try it since its set up for a bigger turbo and injectors?

 

Replaced the TPS and now i cant even get the car to start just wants to keep cranking and cranking. Got it to start up once after replacing the TPS but the car thought it was overheating cause the connector for the temp gauge came undone so i redid the connector and im not getting it to start anymore.

 

Did some digging into my car and looked at the wireing harness and notice and the Crank Sensor connector that a couple of the wires were cracked and thinking that this could be part of my problem if i remember right a few weeks ago when my car wasnt starting up i wiggled the connector a little but and it seamed to start up after that. I think my wiring harness is just going to crap and that this is my main problem.

 

Today I was back under the hood again and I decided that I would check the spark plug wires just to make sure they were good. I measured the resistance of my spark plug wires and these were my results; #1 - 4.75 k ohms, #2 - 6.7 k ohms, #3 - 7.4 k ohms, and #4 - 8.55 k ohms. I looked in my service manual and it says that I should be getting these results; #1 - 5.8 k ohms, #2 - 8.4 k ohms, #3 - 10.6 k ohms, and #4 - 9.7 k ohms. So I believe that this is why I am not being able to start my car at times like right now.

 

Are you getting spark?

 

Going to test for spark tomorrow when I have someone to sit inside the car.