il do a write up one of these days whe i have some time, but for now il just say this:

AF RATIO:
-During normal cruising your ecu is constantly making minor changes to your af ratio to try to keep it at ~14.7:1. This is called open loop and if you have an af gauge you see your gauge LEDs bouncing back and forth like Knight Rider
-During hard acceleration and WOT the ECU enters closed loop mode and supplies fuel and timing based on amount of air it sees coming through the MAS. The ECU has a bunch of preloaded timing/fuel spreadsheets and basically says "okay I see this much air coming in, so im gonna inject this much fuel and run this timing map" If the ECU detects knock, then it will then inject more fuel, if it still sees knock it will retard timing.

TIMING CURVE:
-Like I said the ECU has a bunch of spreadsheets based on the airflow it sees. The less airflow it sees, the more timing it allows. It basically chooses a spreadsheet for timing based on the airflow it sees and tells the engine to advance timing that much. If airflow changes it may change timing spreadsheets. When you floor the car and the turbo first reaches max boost,timing drops down low, usually between 0-8 degrees based on airflow it sees. If all is well and the car isnt knocking, it then slowly raises timing smoothly all the way to redline. This is called the timing curve. On the highest airflow spreadsheet, timing maxes out at 16 degrees by redline.
-When people put an SAFC in the car, it tricks the ECU into seeing less air than there actually is. Since the ECU sees less airflow, it allows more timing. This means more power, but it also means the engine is under more stress and you are more likely to knock/detonate if you have crappy fuel and/or run too much boost. On a car with no SAFC you can only run around 16 degrees of timing because the ECU sees all that air. With the SAFC, 660cc injectors, 16g an running 22psi I was seeing around 20 degrees of timing by redline. My car ran perfect at those settings. When I ran less boost, say 18psi, the ECU saw hardly any airflow, gave my car was too much timing (I was 26 degrees a few times) and it drove horribly. This is why i like the pocketlogger and not a wideband, I knew what was going on by watch my timing curve.

I also have a few links that are great reads on this stuff, but I cant link them on this forum, pm me if you want them.

 

Well like i said earlier, i cant really afford the new turbo and many other things just yet, so i was probably going to do like stated on this post ealier and start with boost controller and a boost guage..Suprise... i have a question about those....I have heard the electronic ones are a little less operator friendly...but i like the way that greddy makes the remote that fits onto the steering to switch from hi to low...so would the Profec Type-S or the Profec B-spec II be okay for me to get? Also, if you think i should get a mbc, i've seen some that are dual stage which you can run a switch into your cab to switch from low to high, i know they are more expensive but if i was willing to pay the extra cost is it worth getting verse a single stage boost? The reason i ask because once i start ECU in the fall i will probably come home at least once or twice a week and its a 45 minute drive, so will it overheat the engine if it just has a single stage boost that is turned up?

 

everyone has their opinions about electronic boost controllers, mine is spend $30 on a manual one and save money for a turbo.
lots of fast cars on mbc's, and really how often does one need to adjust their boost? Having 2 settings is pointless unless you run race gas often. the solution if you want a low boost setting? dont floor it. and no your car is not going to overheat from having a mbc set at any setting.

 

So then if to start with if i just get the mbc, boost gauge, and bov, what should i set it at, 16psi? Would it still be a good idea to get the pocketlogger and a safc now?

 

you dont need an safc/logger until you get bigger injectors. you dont need bigger injectors until you get a bigger turbo.
biggest gains I saw on stock turbo was upper ic pipe/bov and mbc. next you can free up your exhaust.
16psi on a stock turbo is fine.

 

Thanks for all th help, cleared a lot of questions up for me.

 

definetly dont go over 16psi on the stock settings. Because your stock fuel system will start to max out. I generally tell people to run 15psi because boost can be weather dependant. If its colder out then youll end up runnign alittle more boost. So if you have it set at 15psi on a normal warm day, at night you might end up at 17psi.

 

Oh okay thanks, oh one more question for when i go to get my exhaust, i've read that most people either like the thermals or the apexi n1, that n1 for the gs-t, it is a 3" right? and i've seen someexhauststhat say turbo backed and some that say cat back, Which is the apexi n1, and does it make a big difference?

 

the apexi exhuast is 3" catback. Dont get a thermal exhuast though. And yes there is a difference between a turboback and a catback in power. Because with only a catback youl have stock downpipe and cat, and then 3" from there back. But a turboback will have usually all 3" exhuast

 

i had the greddy evo2 catback for a couple of days sitting on my couch, and just by looking at it you can see the quality of it. I'd recommend that as far as exhausts, but my Apexi N1 should be in next week so it's basically preferance.(sp)