Hi, Im a newbie to the DSM world.. I am looking at a 97 GST 5 speed with 75,000k. I test drove the car and was pretty amazed. I have never drivin a turbocharged car before so I dont know what to expect. It was equipped with a Blow off valve that didnt recirculate throught the intake system. Car is in good condition... The top needs a lil help up and down.. The electric motors are goin out? (any idea how $$?) TEST DRIVE: Felt like it hit hard boost at 3500-4000 rpm and I felt continually accleration like the turbo was being held back(this normal?). The clutch held up for about 15 mins and I pulled into the lot and the pedal was stuck to the ground.(no pressure). Refilled the clutch fluid, while pumping the clutch and it leaked all onto the pavement.(master cylinder?). Anyways I can snag the car for $6900 after the clutch is operational(fixed by dealer). I'll have about $2000 to have xtra for repairs. Is it worth it?

Thanks
Austin

 

research crank walk and all its symptoms long and hard. Isnt the clutch stiking a symptom of crankwalk? Id be carfull your turbo should hit full boost at 3000-3400 I wouldnt leave the BOV vented it holds back the car. creates more turbo lag runs extra rich bogs and sometimes may buck badly while at 1/4 - 3/4 throttle and at stops may stall out.

the motor for the top I dont think is cheap either I have heard there not but I am not positive since my spyder never had any trouble with the roof

 

I think what he means is you should keep your BOV vented. Trust me, i've been there done that. haha. I've actually got a 97 gst, so i tell you. keep that puppy vented! Unvented it sounds so beautiful, until you drive it. After a big boost it'll stall the car. I had this happen last time it wasn't vented, and when I revented it, it continued to do it, i found it was a cracked hose. anyhoo.
the car will also run very rich w/o the BOV vented. When my BOV wasn't vented i was barely getting 20 miles to the gallon. ::shakes head::
The cars are AWESOME to drive! I love them, but definentally check out and read up on Crankwalk. if you do get the engine, keep oil changes and other tune ups done regularly. it will help elininate the chance of crankwalk. Driving and pushing the car, the turbo will fully kick in at 3K, but the continual accleration is the car gaining speed at higher rpms.

Take some pics of the new ride and let us view this DSM if you do get it!
if you do buy it, ENJOY all its glory!!

 

i appologize if any of the above info is crapply written, i'm very tired and brain dead. lol

 

PooT I think you got your venting things backwards... Venting means the BOV is blowing off into the atmosphere Recirculation is back into the intake which is what I was telling him he should do

 

oh REALLY!? OH GOSH, I"m sorry! dude, i've always called it venting into the intake. ::feels really dumb:: sorry!

 

a sticking clutch is a sign of crankwalk but as he said he had to refill the fluid which points more to a bad master/slave i would say have the dealer fix the clutch issue s and re testdrive if it dose it once more may be a crankwalk issue.

 

not sure what you quite mean by continual acceleration. Could you elaborate a bit.

 

Im not sure I think it probably needs to be tuned. Can you do that to a stock car? If I take it to a dealer and ask them to specifically look for crankwalk will they be able to tell me if the car has it or not? I talked to some guy who works dsm for like 8 years and said when I get it, if it doesnt have crank walk he can turn the clutch sensor off so I can start the car w/o the clutch depressed and will almost "100%" prevent any future damage. this right? If the car does have crankwalk it probably wont last very long right?(month or 2?)

Austin

 

Hahah the clutch isnt the only thing that will make the crank walk...it has to do with the oiling in the motor so if you drive hard it will still move. The clutch is part of it at idle but its no different from driving in first gear from a stop