K, clutch is completly shot. wanting to upgrade.. but i dont know which stage i should go with.
Heres my mod list i plan on doing
Fmic
16g big evo turbo
Bov
Electronic boost controller

With that i plan on running
air/fuel gauge
boost gauge
and volt gauge

Plan on pushing 10-15 psi NO MORE!!!!!
Wanting a clutch that will hold these mods
but i dont know how much hp these mods will put out
this car is gonna be my daily driver
so its gonna be babied, but have the power for reserve
What stage is my best option???
Thanks guys

 

If you'r truly sure that you will stay at your current power levels for several thoughsand miles and all you want is to get the estimated HP from your current mods to the ground, then an ACT 2100 will do you just fine. No need to get a clutch above that because it will grab right off the bat because your car will suck at being a daily driver, not to mention that you will have a very tired left leg. lol.

If you think you will want more power, such as closer to the E316G's higher power levels, then go to the next level and get a 2600. A 2100 will wear out much faster than you would want it to and eventually slip before it should. Otherwise, stick with a 2100 or equivalent.

...or...
City driven, 2100, at current mods and levels; highway driven, 2600, at current mods and levels (not much use of the clutch to bitch about it being heavy).
City/highway driven, 2600, higher mods and levels in near future.....

That's just my opinion though. I have a Centerforce dual friction clutch (2600 equivalent) and it grabs really quick and is heavy. I bog every now and again, but that's just because of my DIY stiff motor mounts (wore them down). I drive it daily in Honolulu/Waikiki and it's bumper to bumper usually. After an hour and a half in stop and go traffic, I'm sick of my clutch. Afterwards, I love it again
I'm a little guy and a heavy clutch isn't a big thing for me.
Your call bro.

 

This is the DSM community... we don't do stage bull****.

If I told you stage 1, do you have any idea what to buy? NOPE!

ACT2600 with a street disc. Make sure you resurface the flywheel and or replace it.

 

A very cheap and inexpensive way to go about installing a new clutch, and that will work just fine, is buying an ACT 4 puck UN-sprung. Just the clutch pad. Use the stock throw out bearing, stock pressure plate, and flywheel. If the parts are gravely damaged then just buy used ones at a junkyard, or resurface them.

The ride is perfect, very smooth, doesn't feel like you have a performance clutch installed at all. It holds efficiently for up to 400hp. And nothing is compromised due to over kill such as synchros, constant velocity joints, or mounts. And you could do it yourself and save yourself a lot of money and time.

It's been done plenty of times, mostly in Hondas, I personally installed in an Evo. This is all considering you want to stay at the horsepower levels you claim you want.

Any questions, just ask

Gus

 

actually sebba there are alot of clutch companies that go by stages. Such as spec or CM

 

But they don't mean anything. I know some companies stage their own products, but stage one apple isn't the same as stage one orange. Get me?

Sorry Gus, but I totally disagree. A 4 puck is jerky as it is, but an unsprung 2 puck is soo bad. Totally pointless in his car. Cheaper yes... but cheaper isn't better.

 

a four puck is jerky when applied with an after market pressure plate, and thro out bearing. NOT when you use the stock pieces. It's been done hundreds of times and proven over and over. Very comfortable ride.
And he doesn't plan to push more then 400hp, so why risk other components by going with an aggressive clutch setup. It just seems, wiser, and inexpensive.

But then again, it's just opinions. So on we go....

Gus

 

I don't have any experiance with that, so I can't comment.

However I can say with certainty that the 4 puck won't last as long.