let us know when you get that code back from the reader. Then we may be able to give you more info on how to get this thing to pass. But I am afraid that with your state laws for emissions being what they are that it is gonna be a difficult task given the setup

 

Will do.

In the meantime, I'm just going to put everything I come across with this car in this thread. It's more of a thinking out loud kinda thing for myself, and a nice way to keep track of it all. All opinions, suggestions or whatever are all welcome, of course.

Only got limited time during the week- a little here, little there:

Popped the hood intending to re-route the catch can the right way, because the way it is now has to be causing vacuum leak. But I quickly learned that thats going to take a while... I need to go through everything, it's all different. I think I found my evap solenoid though, hooked up in a sea of vacuum hoses and zip ties, just dangling towards the front, lol. I got hoses running under the battery that I need to get to as well. I'm still not sure if disconnecting the battery is a good idea at this point. Job postponed.

Got instructions for MSD DIS-2 and checked out the programming switches. Not very far from the default settings. The electric start selector was switched ON for kick/pull start engines only (default OFF), the staging rev limit was set to 6500 (default 4500) and the max speed rev limit set to 9000 (default 6250). Eh, I set em back to the defaults... Job completed.

Successfully programmed Homelink to open my garage door, haha Get Some!!
Job completed!

 

staging rev at 6500?! and max rev at 9000?! the person who owned this before is an idiot. To try and pre stage at 6500 on a FWD car is just retarded and to ever try and go to 9000 on a 4 cyl, presumably non built 4g63 is not to bright. I am almost wondering if this guy put work into the motor now to be trying settings like that. You may have cams and springs on this and possibly an upgraded head gasket and studs. But this is all stuff that you really cant tell on. Which sucks that the previous owner doesn't know.

Also i find that hard to believe that they knew nothing about this stuff and what is into this car. I would question some more on what is actually in this thing. Someone definetly removed a bunch of stuff before selling this car though

 

PO170
PO125b
PO141
PO304b

 

P0170 - Fuel Trim Malfunction (Bank 1)
P0125 - Insufficient Coolant Temperature for Closed Loop Fuel Control
P0141 - 02 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
P0304 - Cylinder 4 Misfire Detected

The P0170 and P0141 i believe is the Upstream o2 sensor being bad. So i would definetly go ahead and replace the front o2 sensor. They are usually around $70.

The P0125 i have heard can be triggered from the front 02 sensor code so that may be part of it. The missfire code im not completely sure of. That doesnt seem to be related to the other 2. My guess is that possibly due to the bad o2 sensor you may have had a lean condition and caused a missfire, or it could be something to do with the ignition. But i would definetly start with the front 02 replacement

 

Thanks. A new front O2 sensor is on it's way. Then a rear if PO141 sticks around, I suppose. We'll see...


The vacuum hoses weren't that much different after all. Found the evap solenoid, it just wasn't on the firewall- was by the FPR. But all the emissions hose connections were traced, egr, canister, all looked ok.

Here's the ones that didn't look right:



And this is what I changed it to:


But the manual says that frresh air gets pulled into the crankcase thru the breather, so I think I still need to change that... Gotta re-read threads on that.

But for now, I'm off to stroll thru the junkyard - snapped a trailing arm, nice eh? Just gonna grab one from the yard for now, and a timing belt upper cover + whatever other odds and ends. Connectors, hose clamps, **** like that...


Later

 

here is a stock setup as well as modded setups
https://mitsubishiforum.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=25159

 

Nice - Thank you sir. It's stock right now, until it [hopefully] passes emissions and I get a boost controller in there.


Good times at the yard! Found a 97 Spyder that I pretty much raped, heh. Engine was gone but I got my needed trailing arm, lots of connectors for inside and out, clamps/hoses, fuses/relays, interior panels, all those tiny bulbs in the gauge cluster, extra window and lock switches, etc - no timing belt cover though But I scooped a lot of stuff for about $10.

Probably going back to grab the fog lights too, if it looks like the brackets will bolt up to my frame. They're a little bent out of shape, but nothing that can't be bent back. Wish I would've just took 'em, they'll probably be gone by time I get back there in a couple days.

Also swung by Harbor Freight on the way home and grabbed a compression tester, vacuum hand pump kit and a stethoscope.

Sucks because I have a national conference/big whoop-dee-do thing for work in about two hours and continuing through the weekend. So I'm not gonna get any time until Monday now, lame...

At least my O2 sensor should be here by then...

 

Excellent thread, thanks to both members....tom

 

I just recently had my timing belt replaced and while it was in the shop the guy broke the timing belt cover middle piece. He refused to admit that he did it and claimed the ALT belt caused the problem.

I was able to buy a new cover from this website:

http://www.extremepsi.com/

You might check them out, I personally recomend buying a new belt cover instead of getting one from a junk yard. A old timing belt cover has years built into it, making the plastic hard and easier to snap. My new cover I had brought in was very nice and shipping was quicker than I had expected.