I was just wondering, and it's most likely a bunch of dumb questions, so bare with me...I have a 97 Eclipse GST. Once it warms up,it idle's very low, I mean like 400-600rpm. When it gets that low, the car (for lack of a better word) "rattles". The steering wheel visably vibrates, and you definatly feel it. Is that normal to be that low, and is it supposed to rattle? It does run great, just when it idles it happens.

Now for dumb question #2... My car, when cold, (like 20-50 degrees) drives horrible...By that, I mean when you start to drive off, the gas is a bit unpredictable. You kinda have to press the gas pedal more than when it's warmed up, and sometimes takes off...but like I've said, once it warms up, its a great car...

Thanks in advance...

 

could be your tb, iac motor, biss. most likely around the throttle body. do you have a cel? you can try screwing the screw in the tb out 1/2 a turn or so an see if it helps the idle

 

You are using a lot of tech terms there. you may want to tell him wtf youre even talking about. you threw a lot of acronyms in there. explain to him tb iax biss cel since he only has 2 posts im guessing he doesnt know much. i only know what biss is. im an idiot

 

All right the low idle sounds like the BISS. Base Idle Set Screw. If that isn't set right then your idle will be either high or low. It sounds like it's currently low. You'll have to adjust the BISS and start the car to see where the idle goes then adjust a little at a time to get it within range. I believe the idle for these is supposed to sit between 700-900 RPM warm. When cold the idle should be closer to 1400 RPM.

IAC=Idle Air Control. Usually when this is the problem it's the motor that goes bad and the engine will "hunt". RPM will go up and down like it can't find a happy medium. You didn't say it was doing this so I doubt the IAC motor is your problem.

TB=Throttle Body. I dunno why it was even mentioned. The problem described says to me that it's yes in the area of the TB (That's where the BISS and the IAC are located. Connected to the TB) But the TB itself is most definately NOT the problem.

CEL=Check Engine Light. We need to know if that little yellow light came on and what the code from it is to help you better.

I'm going to say try adjusting the BISS first see how she runs. You MAY find that because it was idling low when cold it was bogging it down and that when the BISS is set right you'll get a better idle and better performance while cold.

Also the rattling is likely caused by the idle being so low. But just to be sure try pulling each spark plug and inspecting it for any problems.

Keep us posted on what happens and we'll help with the info we have.

 

Thanks for the info...

The check engine light goes on and off when you start it, so as far as the computer goes its alright...The engine does idle higher when its cold, like it should. But once it's warmed up it does go down between 400-600rpm. I know the rattling is from the low idle, just wondering if it was a bad thing... I'll adjust the BISS, but most likely won't get to it till this weekend. To make things better today the battery and brake warning lights stay on while drivng. So, for the brake light (no its not because i didn't take the e-brake off) its supposed to be because the brake fluid is low, but while braking I haven't noticed a difference.Supposedly, by the manual, the battery indicator has to do with the charging system.So I have my hands full for today...

So, I'll get back to you on how things went with the BISS...

Thanks![sm=shades.gif]

 

All right first off the brake system is a LOSED system. Nothing in nothing out. You are losing fluid somewhere. Find the problem and fix it. Instead of putting a band aid on a decapitation find the head and sew it back on you know? As for the battery I'd suggest having the alternator and belt checked first then the battery tested. Auto zone and advance do this for free.

 

Alright, well it seems like everything is alright now... The alternator was replaced along with the fan belt, and since the a/c belt and the power steering belt seemed a bit worn, were replaced also. There was no problem with the brakes. No leaks at all...I guess it just may have been the alternator that was causing the problem with the brake light, even though that make no sense. Now the car runs great.

Thanks for the help.