I see what you mean man. I'm starting to build my approach with the vehicle. I want the top down for sure. I just want to see what i cant get away with on this models engine without swaping. This unibody my car has scares me though....[&:] I appreciate your input on this.

 

Actually after looking at the turbo forum on here i seen that SPyderGs dudehas the perfect idea for these spyder 4g64 engines as he posts here,

Whoa whoa whoa, i can't believe i missed this one. I am a firm believer in the power potential of any 2g spyder gs. They can handle as much power as any 4g63 with just some forged pistons and *maybe* a head swap. The 420a comes in 2 flavors, the 2.0liter and the 2.4liter. The 4g6 block also comes in a 2.0liter and a a 2.4liter. The 2.0liter is the 4g63, the 2.4 is called the 4g64. Now, the 420a in any TEL was always the 1998cc DOHC version. The 4g63 of course came in the turbo TEL cars. However, the 4g64 was only offered in the 96-99 Spyder GS(we're talking original DSM, TEL). Turbocharging a spyder gs is as simple as gathering oem 1st gen or 2nd gen turbo components and slapping it on. Every 4g63 component(except pistons) can fit on the 4g64, even the ecu's are interchangeable. Of course you can only use certain 2g components when applicable, like the obd2 ecu and knock sensor i believe, but those things are very plentiful and still cheap. The transmissions for the 4g64 and 4g63 are slightly different, but still very much the same. The 4g63 came with the F5M33 mitsubishi made transmission, while the 4g64 came with the F5M31. Notice only the last digit is different, and they say the last digit is the strength rating of the transmission. It's not all that much weaker. A note on how to break down mitsu transmissions: the "F" stands for front wheel drive while a "W" stands for AWD, the "5" means the gear number, of course 5 *forward* gears, the "M" stands for Manual and an "A" stands for automatic, and the last two numbers are supposedly strength rating of the transmission...nobody knows for sure really. So an EVO or GSX automatic would carry an W4A33 while the manual version would be a W5M33. Anyways, the gears are interchangeable in ALL versions of the transmissions, so mix and match to your delight. As for the 420A tranny, Mopar did briefly make a six speed manual transmission while the R/T's and ACR's were dominating their class in SCCA, but ceased production. I think it was only sold to certified race teams, so finding one that hasn't been wrung out might be a challenge. Now going from a 5 speed to a 6 speed is not as cool as you might think. If i were drag racing, i prefer a 5 speed any day of the week. If i'm autocrossing, a 6 speed may do me some good. However, for daily driving, i prefer a 5 speed or even automatic(I'm like superlazy sometimes, most of the time). Be aware that in most transmissions that were 5 speeds and became six speeds(Y2k Celica GT and then GTS, Ford Focus and then SVT) the 6th gear ratio is often the same as the 5 gear ratio of the 5 speed, so no increase in top speed. Once again, strength is dependant on the manufacturer, but the 420a's are said to have a very strong transmission. There is a racer out there that drives a race prepped NA 1996 neon and is putting down i think close 350hp to the wheels and still runs a FACTORY AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION!!! I don't know if he upgraded the torque converter or not, but seriously i don't think he did. I forget his name, but he used to build drag bikes also, it's a green neon that he drives. 420a's are reputed for having weak axles....so refocus on those. But just have fun.


with that in mine i will build new axles and a transmission, prolly even a clutch to before i even think about turboing it. Getting good feedback here, i love forums, id be lost without em'

 

yea, spydergs is the man when it comes to spyders, the clutch would be a good idea before a turbo, but your tranny can hold aprox 250 horses before you really NEED to upgrade it, new axles wouldnt hurt, but again youd need to make more power than a turbo alone gives you to bust em, FYI - the intake gives you maybe 1-2 horses at the wheels, really not worth the money, i took mine off and rigged it with the cone filter and i get more power that way than when i had my aem intake on it.......... RRE(i think) out of australia i believe makes parts for the 4g64.....