turbo intake upgrade effecting BOV performance???
#11
well i could give you alot more help if i had the code #. You can go to any advanced or Autozone. They will scan it for you for free and can give you the code. Thats your best bet.
I just know ive seen people get codes that say something and the actual problem is alot simpler.
I just know ive seen people get codes that say something and the actual problem is alot simpler.
#12
Well heres the thing, I took it to every auto zone, advance auto, etc in town and they told me it being a 95 it was wouldnt work with their scanner? Said it would work on a 96 but not a 95. I had to take it to a local shop and was charged $60 just to have them scan it. AND STUPID ME DIDNT GET THE CODE FROM THEM!!! So that was a waste. Is their anthing I can check to try and narrow the posibilites down?
O and let me clarify the probs Im having. It idles at around 1200rpm on avg but it did that before I got the CEL. Boost was set at 15psi before CEL and now is at about 10psi (I didnt adjust it its just dropped). Overall performance is just seems down.
Would placing the manual boost controller closer to the extrenal wastegate change the boost it was set at? I shortened the vacuum line on it because the previous owner had it routed goofy. Plus I read that the closer it is to the wastegate the more accurate the reading will be.
sry for the novel...
O and let me clarify the probs Im having. It idles at around 1200rpm on avg but it did that before I got the CEL. Boost was set at 15psi before CEL and now is at about 10psi (I didnt adjust it its just dropped). Overall performance is just seems down.
Would placing the manual boost controller closer to the extrenal wastegate change the boost it was set at? I shortened the vacuum line on it because the previous owner had it routed goofy. Plus I read that the closer it is to the wastegate the more accurate the reading will be.
sry for the novel...
#14
yes that is for the TPS. However it may just need to be cleaned and adjusted correctly.
First i would remove it and clean with electric contact cleaner on all of the components and then re-install and adjust how it states in the bottom of this page
http://www.roadraceengineering.com/2gtbswap.htm
you will just need an Ohm meter
First i would remove it and clean with electric contact cleaner on all of the components and then re-install and adjust how it states in the bottom of this page
http://www.roadraceengineering.com/2gtbswap.htm
you will just need an Ohm meter
#17
I tried adjusting and well...Im not sure I did anything haha. When they scanned it the CEL went away and I havent really had the issues I was having (it seems to come and go now). Guess the only way to is to wait for a CEL. Took it out last night and had no problems with it so im optimistic.
Side note. Driving home last night started hearing a knocking slapping noise coming from the engine compartment. Popped the hood it sounds like its coming from right under the valve covers like it might be a cam? It only does it under acceleration. God I hope its not serious I just want to upgrade I dont want to fix things.
Side note. Driving home last night started hearing a knocking slapping noise coming from the engine compartment. Popped the hood it sounds like its coming from right under the valve covers like it might be a cam? It only does it under acceleration. God I hope its not serious I just want to upgrade I dont want to fix things.
#20
Um I could if I knew what to use? And how to get it online and post it? UM... I could call someone and hold my phone to the engine??? lol Otherwise sadly I dont know how to go about doing that.
It only happens at certain rpms. Most notably at about 1900-2000rpm and then again somewhere around 3000rpm(I think)
Is this potentially a serious problem??? I hope not
It only happens at certain rpms. Most notably at about 1900-2000rpm and then again somewhere around 3000rpm(I think)
Is this potentially a serious problem??? I hope not