My son was driving his 2000 eclipse when for lack of proper harness routing, the crankshaft sensor harness was caught in the belts and pretty much mangled. Needless to say the car died. By the time I saw this, I had already diagnosed no power to the fuel pump and no spark. The wires broke about 3" above the clamp that holds it right above the crank pulley (3.0L), and also pulled the ground wire out of the connector above. Anyway repaired the wire harness and ran the tests for the crank sensor and everything passed. However, I still have no fuel or spark. I know that I have power to the ASD relay and fuel pump relay and that both relays work. I know that if I run a jumper power wire back to the fuel pump the pump runs. I ran all the tests for the distributor and the primary resistance calls for .58 - .68 and mine was .70, barely out of specs. the secondary resistance was good. Testing the transistor, continuity between terminal 2 and 3 is not suppose to have any until you hook up a 1.5v battery between terminals 3 and 4. I have 1.7m ohms between 2 and 3 but its tests ok with the little battery. Now if this transistor is bad, would that cause the ECM to not send power to the fuel pump and not have spark? I have no DTC's because the battery had been disconnected for alternator replacement prior to finding those wires. Matter of fact thats how i found those wires. I'm thinking that power went to ground when that harness got caught and something got fried. would something like that fry that transistor or would it more than likely fry the ECM? or both? Would I have to replace the distributor and eliminate the transistor problem and if that don't fix my problem, replace ECM? Anyone have any thoughts?

 

Any Luck Yet?? I have a VERY similar problem. My Son's 2001 Eclispe died while driving. I replaced the crank sensor and the timing belt since I was that far into it and it was time. It has no spark. I'll be watching your posts so let me know what you find.

 

Well, someone posted a link to a manual that had alot more info than my chilton. Being I had no codes to work with, I went to the "Cranks but wont start" section. I went thru all the tests for that and the only one that failed was the transistor in the distributor. I ordered a new distributor from the parts geek. I also ordered cap, rotor, wires, upper intake gasket, and a valve cover gasket set. I know I have 1 bad spark plug wire and cant test the back 3. Amazing what you have to buy to replace wires and spark plugs.lol Anyway, should have them parts by next Friday or so.
The only tests that remained were checking the 2 wires between the ECM and the distributor. Those tested good so it said replace ECM!!! So, I'm hopin this does it! Keep ya posted. Oh Thanks to the guy who posted the link to that manual.

 

factory repair manuals definetly are life savers sometimes. I cant stand the chilton and haynes POS manuals

 

Can you share the link to the manual?

I need to run the same tests. At first you thought the transistor was OK, but now it failed the test? are the terminals you talk about at the connector to the distributor or do I need to take it out of the distributor?

 

I found the link. The test parameters are difficult to decipher. The diagram shows he Ohmeter between terminal 2 and 4 and the 1.4 v between 3 and 4. the 'specified condition' says 2-3; is that 2-3 ohm? In your original post you say you are checking resistance bewteen terminals 2 and 3.

 

The online manual sure helped. The module in the distributor failed the first test: IGNITION COIL CHECK. I searched for one and found that you have to order the whole distributor. The list priced is around $800. Many websites discount them to $550 and some all the way down to $205. so I ordered one of those and a couple days later My Son is back on the road. Not bad for a driveway mechanic/Automatic Transmission Engineer!

So Candodaddy, I hope you weekend goes well. let us know.

 

My new distributor tested on terminals 2 and 3 exactly as the old one. About 8.5 megaohms. The manual said there should be no continuity there. Anyway still no start. I'm glad that yours worked. Looks like an ECM in my future. I'm just not sure how to handle this. Do I buy one thru the dealer? Can I get this one repaired and reflashed? If so, Where? If anyone could direct me that would be great.

 

OK, I went back out to the garage the next day. I decided to check for spark originally thinking the new distributor did nothing. Well what do you know, I have spark. I didnt have that originally so I fixed half of the problem. So I pop the cap off the fuel relay and watch it. The contact arm does nothing while cranking so I manually move it over and the car starts right up.

So after determining the ECM makes that ground so the relay will function, I manually give it a jumper ground and everything works fine. Now, I order an ECM I found online at instrumentclusterstore.com. A little over a hundred bucks, figured I'd give it a shot. Fast forward a week and it arrives. I install it, check for codes and it has a P1610. Something to do with immobilizer malfunction. I clear the code and try to start it. No start! I check spark and its good, I pop that little cap off the relay and watch it while cranking and now its working so I fixed that problem. Check codes again and P1610 is back. Now this online manual from tearstone I was talking about earlier doesnt contain the section for troubleshooting this.

Near as I can tell, it has something to do with the key FOB. Its now not recognizing this and its shutting the car down. Does this sound right? What the heck is the solution here? Ive already spent enough money on this car! Does anyone know what I have to do here?

 

may need reprogramming after a ECM replace.
found this:

http://www.nastf.info/default.asp?Pa...at=1&q=&Page=1