What do you think?.....
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What do you think?.....
I had a problem a few months ago with some standing water. Yes, insurance will cover the damage - under my Collision coverage. Good enough for me.
When I got stuck in the water it died stone cold. Water was just lapping over my floorboards when I opened the door. After I pushed it out and let it set for about 5 minutes I tried to start it. It chugged and chugged really roughly and put out a lot of white smoke fromt the tail pipe. It took quite a few turns but eventually turned over and ran really roughly for a bit. By the time I got home - about 5 miles - it was running reasonably well. It got better and has run well for the past three months. I still have a pronounced lifter? tick and some cold temp accel lag but other than that....? Does that seem consistent with any kind of hydro-lock scenario?
They want me to take it in and have a shop do a tear down so they can check out the damaged parts. That is almost exactly my $500 deductible - so far so good.
Three years ago my timing belt took a vacation. Bunch of bent valves but no piston damage that I could tell -or knew to look for. There were some valve-shaped impressions on the pistons but nothing too bad. The car has run great since then. I didn't think...or know...to check the compression in the meantime.
Back to now....compression in #1 is 40 psi below the other three. I had a leak-down test done but they didn't find any problems. I didn't ge the numbers at the time. I followed some advice I picked up and measured the difference in distance to cylinders #1 and 4. I measured three different times and got .23, .29, .29 inch diference in height. I used a socket extension that just fit through the plug hole so I am pretty sure I got the same spot on each piston. As I recall when I tore it down last time the pistons didn't have any weird geometry and were fairly flat on top. I doubt carbon build up could account for that big a difference. Does that add any fuel to my bent rod assumption?
My dilemma is this. When the adjuster sees this would it be more likely he would attribute it to hydro-lock or to the valves knocking into it? That was over three years ago and almost 40K miles. Would this car run almost perfectly for that long with a rod bent that much? Last thing I need is to do the tear-down and have the adjuster determine it was pre-existing. I definitely cannot afford the $2K or so bill for a rebuild. I suppose I would get it hauled home and .. I don't know where I would go from there.
Any thoughts from those who have seen similiar symptoms? I would like to at least have a sense that it is more likely or not before I commit to taking it in.
When I got stuck in the water it died stone cold. Water was just lapping over my floorboards when I opened the door. After I pushed it out and let it set for about 5 minutes I tried to start it. It chugged and chugged really roughly and put out a lot of white smoke fromt the tail pipe. It took quite a few turns but eventually turned over and ran really roughly for a bit. By the time I got home - about 5 miles - it was running reasonably well. It got better and has run well for the past three months. I still have a pronounced lifter? tick and some cold temp accel lag but other than that....? Does that seem consistent with any kind of hydro-lock scenario?
They want me to take it in and have a shop do a tear down so they can check out the damaged parts. That is almost exactly my $500 deductible - so far so good.
Three years ago my timing belt took a vacation. Bunch of bent valves but no piston damage that I could tell -or knew to look for. There were some valve-shaped impressions on the pistons but nothing too bad. The car has run great since then. I didn't think...or know...to check the compression in the meantime.
Back to now....compression in #1 is 40 psi below the other three. I had a leak-down test done but they didn't find any problems. I didn't ge the numbers at the time. I followed some advice I picked up and measured the difference in distance to cylinders #1 and 4. I measured three different times and got .23, .29, .29 inch diference in height. I used a socket extension that just fit through the plug hole so I am pretty sure I got the same spot on each piston. As I recall when I tore it down last time the pistons didn't have any weird geometry and were fairly flat on top. I doubt carbon build up could account for that big a difference. Does that add any fuel to my bent rod assumption?
My dilemma is this. When the adjuster sees this would it be more likely he would attribute it to hydro-lock or to the valves knocking into it? That was over three years ago and almost 40K miles. Would this car run almost perfectly for that long with a rod bent that much? Last thing I need is to do the tear-down and have the adjuster determine it was pre-existing. I definitely cannot afford the $2K or so bill for a rebuild. I suppose I would get it hauled home and .. I don't know where I would go from there.
Any thoughts from those who have seen similiar symptoms? I would like to at least have a sense that it is more likely or not before I commit to taking it in.
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