Try this link: 5ak6v-mitsubishi-endeavor-ls-2004-mitsubishi-endeavor.html you will find solution or DIY

 

print out the advise given on this link and give it to your mechanic. It works. Ive done this reapir myself 2 months ago... no problems since... its easy....

 

Hi,

Lots of information about this problem. As usual, some conflicting, some just not good...adding water to your dash doesn't sound too appealing to me since you already have a leak...its the blockage of the drain that is causing the problem. Water is backing up in the dash since the ac is not draining to the outside any longer.

Removing the entire hvac system is probably the "best" and long term solution, but if you are like me, thats not an option for me as home mechanic...and the cost of the procedure stops me from taking my 2004 into the shop to have it done.

So...I performed the procedure from Mitsubishi TSB-09-55-002..cost me $1.22 for the part from mitsubishi dealer (its only a plug), then I had to buy the little attachments for my shop vac from Lowe's ($11) and I had some silicone..if not probably about $4.

Follow the instructions, (very simple)...when you are successful, the water will drain again from under the car when the AC is running like it should.

If you can't find the TSB or have other questions, please let me know.

Hope this helps.

Roger

 

I have a 2001 Eclypse Spyder and had a clogged A/C drain, leaving a lot of water under the driver's floor mat. First I exposed the A/C drain tube. Under the hood it is at the lower right of the Firewall pad. You must first remove the plastic air duct. Then reach down and lift the right side lower end of the firewall pad. Feel for the drain with your fingers. It is not very big. Insert a thin (about 3/8" wide plastic) drain cleaning tool (Walmart carries one in the plumbing supplies area for about $2.50). This, hopefully, will clean the end of the drain tube and not damage the condensor.

Next, now here is the trick I tried. You need to get an electric grass blower (preferably a 2 speed model). Now lift just the left side of the plastic air intake below the windshield. It is secured by several plastic clips. Now set the A/C vent control on the dash so that the vents are blowing up only. Next close all of the vents in the car. Now insert the end of the blower into the air intake vent below the windshield and pack the sides with towels to seal around the blower. Turn on the blower and air will be forced through the system, all the way out of A/C drain. This worked for me!

 

I have a 2003 montero full size and it has the same problem, I am on my 4 resistor on now the fan squeels on hi, do these work for the montero as well?

 

Yal!

copy and paste the link below.

5ak6v-mitsubishi-endeavor-ls-2004-mitsubishi-endeavor.html

the explanations and pictures are superb.

thanks to Doug C.

 

Your Endeavor will leak, if not now it will eventually.

Here is the problems:
#1None of the Endeavors come with a cabin air filter. This is the start of the problem. Without this filter dust, leaves, and debris enters your hvac system. This debris tries to exit the system through the hvac drain hole. This will clog up your drain box hole. NOTE: I had no debris in my drain box, I guess I was lucky. But I still had a wet drivers side floor due to the bad drain design listed next.

#2: The engineering design for this a/c drain box is really bad. The drain hole sticks out of the firewall, and is covered up from sight by a reinforcement channel that is welded to the firewall and runs from the driver’s side to the passenger side. The cutout in the fire wall for the drain tube is larger than the drain tube. They put a gasket between the back side of the firewall and the drain box that rest up against the fire wall. This gasket is basically a sponge.

Problems from #1:
If your car has relatively low miles (60k or less) your sponge gasket may still be holding up to the water that is constantly running into it. But if debris clogs up your drain box, water will start to collect. The water will fill up your drain box and eventually spill over into your driver’s side and passenger side floor, and spill into your hvac blower motor. You can tell this is an issue if you have water on BOTH SIDES driver and passenger. Or if you can hear slushing in the car when you turn. (Or with the car in park, rock it back and forth with the door open and you can probably hear slushing). If you do not hear any of this then you most likely have no debris.

Problems from #2:
If you hear no slushing of water, your problem is that the gasket has failed and water is leaking into your car.

Best Fix
Step #1 Under the car look up at the floor board on the driver’s side. You will see 2 plugs about an inch in diameter. One is on each side of a channel that runs right down the driver’s side. Pull these plugs out. You will have to remove some gray rubber stuff that is used to keep moisture out. When you pull each plug out, you will most likely get about a cup of water. Leave these plugs out for a little bit to help the floor dry.

Step#2
Drill a 5/8 inch hole in the driver side of the a/c drain box as shown in service bulletin TSB-09-55-002. Try to drill it in the spot listed on the TSB. If you see debris or water clean it up/out per the TSB. DO NOT plug the hole yet. But you will need to buy the MU670022 plug.

Step #3 see TSB-11-55-003
Go to home depot or Lowes and buy some 1/4 clear refrigerator line. Stick this line in the hole and feed it through the drain hole. This is kind of hard; some people put a hanger in the line and then feed it through to give the line more stiffness. I didn’t have to do this. Just look at the box, see where the lowest point is and where the drain line is and try to feed it through. When you fill it go through, most likely you will hit the reinforcement. Get under the car and stick your finger in the hole in the reinforcement, you should be able to feel the 1/4 line. If you u can pull it through do so, I had to go back inside the car and rotate the 1/4 line and then it lined up with the hole and I just pushed it through.

Step #4
Continue to perform TSB-11-55-003. The soap helps. Also it helps if you use your left hand to push the 90 deg line and wrap your right hand around the l/h wheel a-arm and push the tube through. You will have to be lying on your l/h side while doing this. After some trial and error you will have it. DONT GIVE UP. You will have to pop the bottom break line out of the white holder and push it up some. And you will have to unhook the power steering like (1 bolt)

Now to verify it works. Pull the 1/4 line out of the hole in the drain box. Stick it back in the hole and just let it rest there. Take a swig of water. Blow the water through the 1/4 line into the drain box. Look under the car and make sure THAT ALL THE WATER IS COMING OUT OF THE 90DEG LINE AND NONE IS LEAKING OUT BEHIND THE CHANNEL. If it is all coming out of the 90deg. You have it hooked up. If anything leaks out of the channel, you did not get the 90deg installed correctly, try again.

Now zip tie the 90 deg to the power steering line and you’re done. Turn the car on and validate that it is draining correctly.

There are all types of fixes for this, some have relocated the drain line and plugged the original one, and some have taken out the dash. The simplest fix is usually the best. The problem with taking out the dash is most likely the dealer will mess it up and your dash will jiggle forever. Problem with relocating the drain line is that your new line will not be as low as the original drain hole; therefore your box will always have some water in it. Not alot but some. And if you don’t block off the original line correctly, you still have the same problem it just won’t leak into the car as much.

THIS PROBLEM SUCKS; there are a million opinions on it. I am here to help because I bought a used car and this problem absolutely sucks. My dealer said they would fix it by taking out the dash but that is too risky for me, so I just spent time fixing it myself with the 90deg.

*Install a cabin air filter regardless.

The service bulletins are on the internet, just search the numbers.

For questions email me at endeavorACleak@gmail.com
If you want, email me your # and I will call and answer any questions you have. These cars are 200k+ mile cars, and it sucks that have this problem.

 

bookmarking this for future reference thanks!

 

Concerning post #66 from itsrcr - THANK YOU!!! Your post was VERY helpful, especially the photos. I'll let you know if my husband is successful. Thank you again.

 

I finally found the hole and thought okay that was the hard part whew. I've found that getting a coat hanger in that tube is nearly impossible without putting the SUV on a lift.

Thanks to all for the recommendations it's been truly helpful. I'm just at a loss trying to get the hanger in the hole now. Any advice for this? The engineer that designed this needs to be castrated.