Mitsubishi Montero & Montero Sport This sport utility vehicle offers more size than the other Mitsubishi SUVs, but manages to keep a sporty look and comfortable feel, unlike many larger SUVs.

2001 Montero Sport 3.0 rebuild

  #1  
Old 07-26-2015, 10:29 PM
Butthers's Avatar
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Default 2001 Montero Sport 3.0 rebuild

I bought a 01' Montero Sport (141K miles) for my Niece for Christmas, and the thing leaked more oil than the Valdez oil spill and constant mis-fires.

This spring I did a complete rebuild. I found the timing belt was so loose that the water pump could be spun by hand, the belt tensioner was fully extended and not tensioning the belt at all. Found that someone prior to me marked the timing belt with a knife(or something sharp) for TDC. The front and rear oil seals on the heads were leaking. Also the engine was throwing Bank2 upstream failure code. Below are all of the things I had to do to get the 3.0L to run reliable.

Purchased the OEM manual (On-line version only)

Heads: Cleaned, decked, pressure checked. New valve stem seal, replaced front and rear oil seals. (Note: it is important to back seat the front seals. I ordered the tool new from the dealer, it was cheaper than on Ebay) $230.00 at local machine shop.

New Water Pump ($40.00) Rock Auto

New timing belt, tensioner, idlers, hydraulic tensioner was still good, but did reset it to OEM spec. ($79.00) Rock Auto

Replaced all six fuel injectors (Roack Auto, $19.00) Seal kit was $2.19 for each injector.

Complete Engine Rebuild kit ($230.00) Rock Auto

The exhaust manifolds came off fairly easily, the drivers side needed to persuaded a little bit, but no broken bolts.

Replaced all coolant hoses, including the 3/8" bypass hoses around the throttle body.

Took about three weeks for the whole process, but after complete assembly the engine started the first try and it ran very smooth. It has been three months now since rebuild have roughly 2500 miles on the engine. I checked the oil, it is only a 1/2 quart low (fairly typical) and have not had any cylinder mis-fires. No engine codes. I check it every weekend and it has been running smooth. Bottom Line, the rebuild is a pain in the ***, clearly previous owner did not want to perform maintenance, but once done, the vehicle has been running like a top with no issues. Having the manual was very important. Look up the Mitsubishi Pajero Sport manual. Extremely helpful. It lists all the OEM tools required for each task and has good notes.
 
  #2  
Old 07-26-2015, 11:08 PM
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You are the Man!!! Just out of curiosity, did you pull the engine or did you do all the work in the engine compartment?
 
  #3  
Old 07-31-2015, 07:09 AM
2001Mitch3.5XS's Avatar
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Good question Hunter, I made all my own special tools, Runs better than new. Total Top and Front rebuild. I really should have taken the motor out and rebuilt the complete motor as far as having the cylinders done, block cut, New rings, bearings...etc.
 
  #4  
Old 12-31-2015, 09:39 PM
Butthers's Avatar
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Originally Posted by HunterD
You are the Man!!! Just out of curiosity, did you pull the engine or did you do all the work in the engine compartment?
no, I did not pull the motor. All done on place.
 
  #5  
Old 12-31-2015, 09:44 PM
Butthers's Avatar
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Originally Posted by Butthers
I bought a 01' Montero Sport (141K miles) for my Niece for Christmas, and the thing leaked more oil than the Valdez oil spill and constant mis-fires.

This spring I did a complete rebuild. I found the timing belt was so loose that the water pump could be spun by hand, the belt tensioner was fully extended and not tensioning the belt at all. Found that someone prior to me marked the timing belt with a knife(or something sharp) for TDC. The front and rear oil seals on the heads were leaking. Also the engine was throwing Bank2 upstream failure code. Below are all of the things I had to do to get the 3.0L to run reliable.

Purchased the OEM manual (On-line version only)

Heads: Cleaned, decked, pressure checked. New valve stem seal, replaced front and rear oil seals. (Note: it is important to back seat the front seals. I ordered the tool new from the dealer, it was cheaper than on Ebay) $230.00 at local machine shop.

New Water Pump ($40.00) Rock Auto

New timing belt, tensioner, idlers, hydraulic tensioner was still good, but did reset it to OEM spec. ($79.00) Rock Auto

Replaced all six fuel injectors (Roack Auto, $19.00) Seal kit was $2.19 for each injector.

Complete Engine Rebuild kit ($230.00) Rock Auto

The exhaust manifolds came off fairly easily, the drivers side needed to persuaded a little bit, but no broken bolts.

Replaced all coolant hoses, including the 3/8" bypass hoses around the throttle body.

Took about three weeks for the whole process, but after complete assembly the engine started the first try and it ran very smooth. It has been three months now since rebuild have roughly 2500 miles on the engine. I checked the oil, it is only a 1/2 quart low (fairly typical) and have not had any cylinder mis-fires. No engine codes. I check it every weekend and it has been running smooth. Bottom Line, the rebuild is a pain in the ***, clearly previous owner did not want to perform maintenance, but once done, the vehicle has been running like a top with no issues. Having the manual was very important. Look up the Mitsubishi Pajero Sport manual. Extremely helpful. It lists all the OEM tools required for each task and has good notes.
Quick update, the original radiator gave up the ghost, should put a new one in at the time of rebuild but did not. It was clogged with sediment. All new hoses, pressure cap, radiator and Thermostat from Rockauto for $150.00
 
  #6  
Old 01-02-2016, 08:53 AM
larry4406's Avatar
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Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Northern VA
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Can you post pictures of the tools you said you made? I am working on a 3.5L
 
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