Hi: Seems it's my turn to have a failing alternator. Quick look indicates that rebuilt Denso units are of stock everywhere.

Has anyone had good (or bad) luck with any other brands?

Thanks,

Ron

 

Answering my own question - sort of.

I still haven't resolved the issue, but have learned a lot after consulting several forums, YouTube DIY videos and general mechanical Q&A sites.

But first, to review my situation:

1) Sudden appearance of multiple warning lights: Brake, AT Temp, Battery, Traction Control. Followed by rapidly dying battery. All symptoms of failed alternator, according to posts on this forum.
2) Curbside clip-on test at Advance Auto indicated "your alternator is toast"
3) Removed the alternator and had it bench tested twice at two different stores - and both showed it to be GOOD??
4) Checked for +12v S source at the alternator and found no problem there.
5) Removed and double checked all major fuses including the 120AMP one.
6) Battery charges and tests fine.

So, I gave up chasing things and decided just go ahead and replace the alternator, even though it tests OK. But then the plot thickened:

1) There are more reports of bad luck with aftermarket (AutoZone, Advance, etc.) units than I could fit into this update. Multiple DOA and early death failures reported - specifically with Mitsubishi cars, which several mechanic bloggers said are particularly sensitive to alternator variants?
2) So, the predominant advice was/is to stick with genuine Mitsubishi new or rebuilt parts. More expensive, but worth it, according to the experts.
3) The bad news is that even though rebuilt OE units show up on every genuine Mitsu parts site, they are NO LONGER available in the US dealer system. Same goes for the OE voltage regulator, which I think would fix my problem. Correction, those are available from Japan - with a 90 - 100 day lead time!

So, unless anyone knows of a source, I'm down to deciding whether to roll the dice (perhaps several times) with the aftermarket stuff (I did look at one at AutoZone, and found that the span between the mounting tabs was at least 1/32" too narrow - would have never been able to get that thing mounted!) Alternatively I may try one of the more expensive VR units from PartsGeek or RockAuto, but those cost as much as the aftermarket alternators, and still are not genuine Mitsu.
Last resort, is a used unit on eBay. Seller says it tests good, but then again, so does mine.

I got no response from my first post, so don't expect anything new now, but am positing all of this to inform others, FWIW. Thanks for reading.

Ron

 

Reporting back. Decided to risk $35 on an aftermarket voltage regulator: https://www.ebay.com/itm/271562633221

Soldered it in and that cured everything! Been working fine for more than 6 weeks.

Ron

 

hey all Montero people...I took a chance on a cheap CarQuest alternator. I did make sure it's the 100a, or whatever the higher capacity version that everyone here recommends. It's working flawlessly for over six months now. Just a heads up. Zero issues. I also cleaned all grounds that I could access. And, I installed a new brand new black terminal clamp on the battery. Everything in the vehicle works better now.

the alternator I replaced was the OEM from the factory. It lasted 208k miles and 25 years :-)!

 

Good afternoon, I am personally on my second WIA Alternator from car parts dot com, don't really recommend them, I have most everything on it converted to LED and still have issues with charging even with the high output unit. Since when is an alternator high out and still rated under 100 amps🙄. They included the test sheet with the product and at idle speed(ok a high idle, I installed a throttle lock cable to get that cold a\c when on scene and have the dog in the back), but now use it just to hit a decent current output, idle is one third rated output, high idle half output which can't actually keep up with the unit and all accessories(put a solar charger in it to help cut the gap from HF) This is what I will be doing next, check out local parts stores for aftermarket "universal" type units, think Holley Edelbrock and the such, plus a nice shiny chrome unit will dress up any engine compartment. Will be looking at about a 250 amp unit, converted a buddies mustang GT from fuel injected to carb with a good old HEI system and massive stereo, it was a nightmare until we dropped that BIG alternator in, updated the lines for it to handle the current and that pretty much solved over half the residual issues along with good ground straps. So I'm going to do the same with mine once I cook the next one or maybe I get it all together before this one fries and I can sling it on the shelf as a back up. Hope it helps, get away from "OEM" type parts as they're hard to find(round here anyhow) and overpriced as well as inadequate in most applications, I took a fuse block out of a Chevy Monte Carlo and dropped it in the Montero(power up after ignition) to help divert and alleviate some of the drain/draw and keep the wiring a bit more tidy, so I guess I'm converting it to a GM Mitsubishi Montero Carlo, the more I replace parts with non Mitsubishi parts the better and more reliable it becomes, don't be afraid to be unconventional with these!