First post...Hello everyone

My Montero is trippin' out!
History:
6 months ago, my wife started it and put it in reverse. As she started backing out it died. My son went and jump started it....it made it home and wouldn't start again (clicking)
I thought it was the battery or the alternator. The mechanic said it was the battery and replaced it.

Several days later it did it again...I was using a screwdriver to open the battery terminal and noticed it got a better connection while I was crossing it. I removed the wire and cleaned the post and the wire. After reconnecting the battery it seemed to run fine. It ran fine until today. (6 months later)

Okay...today(1/24/12), wife went out to start it and it started right up...she left it running to warm up and came in the house. after about 15 minutes she went back out and it had died. The lights were still on and the heater was blowing warm air. So it must have ran for most of the time.

I cleaned the battery connections and the posts like the last time and it started right up again. But after a few minutes I put it into 'reverse'. It 'jerked' hard into reverse (odd..usually smooth) and died again. click, click is all I could get out of it.

I asked my wife about the hard jump into gear and she said it has done it about 3 or 4 times in the last few weeks.

Recap:

• 6 months ago it started, ran and then died and was jumped (lights dimmed)
• Battery replaced about 6 months ago
• Alternator passed about 6 months ago
• Did it again a few days after replacing battery
• Connections and posts cleaning worked for about 6 months
• Signature "click" sound but the battery seems to be full
• Nominal amount of visible corrosion on the terminals

Odd things I noticed:

• After the lights began to dim....the tachometer was reading "0 rpm". If I pressed on the accelerator the rpm would 'engage' and read normal...but the lights did not get brighter.
• Jerk hard into reverse then died
• for the past year...when the car is running there is a 'clicking' sound coming from the left side under the dash (just above left foot). The best way to describe it is it sounds like a bomb...fast, constant ticking. It is not every time the car is running...I can't associate it to anything and it isn't the turn signal.

I am trying to tell you everything I can think of that might help you all help me
Oh, and it has the keyless entry alarm system from the factory but the remotes are gone. And there aren't any other addons like it's a stock stereo etc.

Thanks in advance
N8--->

 

I’ll take a stab at this…I assume that you have regular halogen headlights and not HID’s?
The battery has to last longer than six months. The simple “odd thing” that you wrote, is that after the lights got dim, they did not get brighter with the increase in engine speed. If at night and your headlights are shining on a white door or surface, when you race the engine from idle, you should see some increase in the brightness of the headlights, assuming these are halogen and not the HID type of lights. This immediately says to me alternator. How old is it? I believe it has an internal voltage regulator which could have failed or the brushes are getting worn or the belt is not tensioned correctly.
If the battery is not fully charged and has low voltage, it can cause a host of other issues for modern cars maybe for example solenoids that are in the transmission?
As far as the “ticking noise”, that could be the door lock timing relay or the heater relay, or some other relay there. It could be a red herring or maybe it will go away after you have solved the battery issue.
Sure hope this helps or gives someone else a jumping off point.

 

Thank you _93TSI_370+K_

The headlights are the factory headlights...so yeah halogens. I agree that is "should" be the alternator but I have eliminated both the battery and the alternator as the culprit. The alternator is the factory original.

The battery seems good because after letting it sit for two weeks...today I started it. It started right up without hesitation. I let it run for about a minute. I turned the headlights on and they were normal brightness. I flipped them to brights and let it run for about 10 minutes. The lights never dimmed. Then I raised the RPMs and there was no significant change in the brightness of the lights. they seemed to be 'normal' brightness.

But then.....I had my son put it in reverse and it instantly died and the headlights went out. Then it wouldn't start....just click click.

Here is my stab at the possible problem......It seems like the lead wire off the positive post get zapped when it's 'loaded' (ie put the transmission in R). Not the big one that goes to the alternator...the other little one that goes to the fuse panel. Does that sound like a reasonable possibility? I have no idea....I love this car! I don't want to have to blow it up


Is it possible that the alarm system is trippin out, causing the ticking? But then the car would never start because the alarm would prevent it..right? I don't know.

Maybe someone can help with this new info? Please

Thanx in advance
N8--->

 

I got a report.....maybe this might help someone help me


DTC found
P0141 HO2S-12 (Bank 1 Sensor 2) Heater Circuit Malfunction


Parameter Description / Results

• DTC for which Freeze Frame was Stored / P0141
• Fuel System 1 Status / Open Loop - due to driving conditions
• Fuel System 2 Status / Open Loop - due to driving conditions
• Calculated LOAD Value / 25.49 %
• Engine Coolant Temp / 71.60 °F
• Short Term Fuel Trim - Bank 1 / 0.00 %
• Long Term Fuel Trim - Bank 1 / 3.91 %
• Short Term Fuel Trim - Bank 2 / 0.00 %
• Long Term Fuel Trim - Bank 2 / 3.13 %
• Engine RPM / 1,761.50 rpm
• Vehicle Speed Sensor / 0.00 mph

Stored DTCs / Code Definition
P0141 / O2 Heater Circuit (Bank 1, Sensor 2)

Monitor Status
Monitor Name / Status
MIL / «ON»
Misfire Monitoring / Complete
Fuel System Monitoring / Complete
Comprehensive Component Monitoring / Complete
Catalyst Monitoring / Complete
Heated Catalyst Monitoring / Not Supported
Evaporative System Monitoring / Not Complete
NMHC Catalyst Monitoring / Not Supported
NOx Adsorber Monitoring / Not Supported
Secondary Air System Monitoring / Not Supported
Oxygen Sensor Monitoring / Complete
Oxygen Sensor Heater Monitoring / Complete
EGR System Monitoring / Complete
Boost Pressure System Monitoring / Not Supported
Exhaust Gas Sensor Monitoring / Not Supported
PM Filter Monitoring / Not Supported

 

N88888, anything new to report?

That code may be a red herring as it refers to O2 sensor heater circuit malfunction. These codes are easy to search for on the web. If the O2 has issues, it will have some effect on mileage , drivability but mostly on emissions. I know you wouldn’t pass my state’s emissions test if you have any CEL codes showing.

I do not think that your headlights would automatically turn off when the car dies…. unless you have one of those options where the lights turn off automatically if you forget to turn them off, a time delay feature. Do you have daytime driving lights? If you have either of these features it may have some bearing on your lights “automatically” going off when the car dies or it could be your alarm system. Do you know what the alarm system controls?

As I always post when people have electrical issues, you really need to get the factory (Mitsubishi) shop repair manuals for your year and vehicle so you can follow and check the electrical system for your car and understand how it works. That way you can see how everything interacts and follow the wiring. I always have gotten the factory repair manual from the car manufacturer, they cost more than the ones that you can buy at the auto parts stores, but they are worth every penny, provided you can understand schematics and such. You may find one on ebay or some other site or maybe your local library will have something (but I doubt it). Check with your local Mitsu parts dealer. Also, just recently a new member to this site joined “Mitz Parts Mgr”, they (could be male or female these days) may be able to help.

I know owner’s manuals that come with the cars are not that exciting, but sometimes it has information that is of importance and sometimes info about getting a service manual.

You say13 years on the original alternator, better start looking for a good price on one as you are on borrowed time now. Just out of curiosity and please don’t take this the wrong way but what test did you do to determine the alternator was good?

Back to the symptom of after the car dies and the headlights went off when you put it in reverse, did you try this in “D” also? You may be onto something here, the engine “torques” when you put it into reverse. But I would be more inclined to think that a circuit “opens up”, maybe a ground wire to the engine block or the alarm system.

 

Have you noticed any rough idling, i.e. the engine sounds like it is about to die? There could be a possible problem with your MAF (mass airflow sensor) that would give the engine a hard time. Another issue which sounds like the clicking (except it is in the engine bay) could be that your IAC or idle air control is going bad or has gone bad.

There seems to be a problem with the Montero sports and that is when a new battery is installed the idle air control valve will "reset" itself as the engine computer memory has been erased and the IAC will get stuck on the gunk that has built up over the years and will not be able to open to control the engine idle.

If that is the case all that needs to be done is to remove the IAC and clean out the gunk with some parts cleaner or the like and you should be all set.

I should add that it also looks like the code you're giving is a failure of the O2 sensors, downstream number 2 which if you have a california emissions vehicle will be after the pre-cats if you have a federal emissions vehicle it could just be a failure of the O2 sensor after the catalytic converter, or it could mean that your catalytic converter is going to crap, but I highly doubt that would be causing all these issues you're having.

As mentioned in this thread previously make sure your two engine ground straps are firmly connected to the frame and/or body of the truck, on mine they are just below the windshield on the back side of the engine.