Problems getting my 2k MS xls aligned
I have a 2k montero sport. Just replace ball joints, control arm bushings (lower), steering gear box (reman), tie rods inner and outter, and pitman arm.
I took it to the local mitsubishi place (Bay mitsu in panama city) and it was going to be 90$ for the alignment. Get a call almost when im suppose to pick it up stating that the camber/caster are so far out that it needs a shim kit for both sides (60$ per kit
). i head t the local napa and grab a bunch of individual shims from .04 all the way up to .125" for less than 10$
.
Now the shop wants to charge an hour labor on top of the alignment fee. Is this common? i tightened the torsion bars down past stock to give me a 9" lift from top of front tires to the dead center top of wheel inner fender. The tech cranked the torsion bars down to the point where its around ~5" now (I havent measured yet) and still way out on the camber caster. I torqued the castle nuts to proper torque on everything including the bottom ball joint which required weight to be put on it to tighten.
Also the tech said the toe was pretty much dead on but when i drive, the car will start pulling to the right making the steering wheel around 5 degrees to the right from top dead center. The reman gear box i bought said it was centered from factory but had almost a full revolution more turning right then left. I counted total revolutions, divided by 2 and centered the wheel that way. Did i accidentally center it to the clock spring ? could that be why the car pulls right driving striaght since my toe was ok?
Thanks for any incite!
I took it to the local mitsubishi place (Bay mitsu in panama city) and it was going to be 90$ for the alignment. Get a call almost when im suppose to pick it up stating that the camber/caster are so far out that it needs a shim kit for both sides (60$ per kit
). i head t the local napa and grab a bunch of individual shims from .04 all the way up to .125" for less than 10$
.Now the shop wants to charge an hour labor on top of the alignment fee. Is this common? i tightened the torsion bars down past stock to give me a 9" lift from top of front tires to the dead center top of wheel inner fender. The tech cranked the torsion bars down to the point where its around ~5" now (I havent measured yet) and still way out on the camber caster. I torqued the castle nuts to proper torque on everything including the bottom ball joint which required weight to be put on it to tighten.
Also the tech said the toe was pretty much dead on but when i drive, the car will start pulling to the right making the steering wheel around 5 degrees to the right from top dead center. The reman gear box i bought said it was centered from factory but had almost a full revolution more turning right then left. I counted total revolutions, divided by 2 and centered the wheel that way. Did i accidentally center it to the clock spring ? could that be why the car pulls right driving striaght since my toe was ok?
Thanks for any incite!
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