Good Day Eh'
Canuck here so not sure if model names line up across the border. Basically have the rockford sound system and it has been giving me grief. Starting making static/popping noises from sub and sound would be intermittent on/off. Progressed to static/popping sounds on ignition on and off and would get an error displaying error dc. Happened to be due for a service and they told me my radio head was nfg, 2300 in Canada and my amp was nfg, 1300. Ouch and 6 whole months past warranty means bend over and take it like a man. So, I gave them my vin number and they gave me part numbers and shopping I went. Happened to luck out and find a replacement radio on ebay, out of a new vehicle that upgraded to nav for a mere $100.Finding an amp not so easy. I tried a couple diagnostic things to see if I could confirm what the dealer was saying. Unplugged the audio out from the amp and no sound, but no error dc either. Unplugged the sub and plugged everything back in and no static/pop, but same error dc warning. From this I am guessing that sub=good, radio=good, amp=bad. Any amp suggestions or anyone know where to get one???Part # on amp is 8701A089. I heard aftermarket will just blow sub, but nothing to confirm or refute that. Any way of testing the radio other then swapping in a new amp and trying???

 

for the most part, any sub will work...you just need to set it up correctly. I do not have the sub option, but I've installed a few.

not sure what the connectors look like, but I'll describe the general idea. Amps have a few things to take into consideration. First, you'll need to know the wattage and impedance of the speaker. generally the impedance is printed on the magnet...maybe the wattage as well. The impedance will determine the output power delivery of the amp. If your speaker is rated at 4ohms, then an amp may output 150 watt. If your speaker is rated at 2ohms, then that same amp outputs 300watt. you'll want to match the amp's output to your speaker...else you are wasting money. To turn the amp on, there is a "signal" input that comes from the radio head unit. In custom setups, it is a single wire...I wouldn't be surprised if the outlander has a connector and it is integrated. Since the amp is only running one sub, I'm going to assume the amp only has two RCA outputs (pos/neg). Sometimes amps come with dual amps to let you run two subs or a dual voice coil sub. You can bridge the outputs (use neg from one output and pos from the other output) and you get the combined output wattage. Depending on the output wattage, you will then need to set the gain (volume) of the sub. Easiest way explained to me is this:
- set the gain to lowest setting.
- set your head unit to 2/3 volume or where your regular speakers distort
- increase your gain until the sub starts distorting and then lower it back a bit

So as long as you can connect your signal, input, and output...you can run an aftermarket amp.

 

Many thanks for the reply and the huge detail that went into it. Unfortunately after reading more than a couple forums on this site, the RF sub is not your everyday sub.11SE2HEAR posted that it is a dual 1 ohm voice coil, whatever that means. I have also read elsewhere that most aftermarket amps will blow it, so it sadly is not a question of wiring it up to any aftermarket amp. I am hoping someone knows of a specific amp that will work with the system as is, or if there is a replacement sub I can fit into the rf enclosure and an amp that will work with the remainder of the speakers and a aftermarket 10"sub.

 

I sent you back a private message about this. Yes, the woofer is a dual 1 Ohm woofer. An aftermarket mono amp that will operate at a 2 Ohm load would work if you wired the voice coils in series. As for the RF amp that's under the seat.....that amp has all the DSP (digital signal processing) features built into it. Without that amp you can adjust to any of the different preloaded sound stage settings. Plus, each channel of the amp operates one speaker independently. Plus each speaker in the doors isn't your typical 4 Ohm speaker like most aftermarket ones are. I think the door speakers were 2 Ohms each if I remember correctly.

In my opinion, unless you were going to create a whole new system from scratch, your best bet is to try and track down another RF/Mitsubishi Electronics amplifier....possibly from a vehicle salvage yard, or from Ebay, or maybe someone is selling one on another forum somewhere.

 

Many thanks for chiming in. As indicated going aftermarket will be a long and expensive road so I will continue scouring for a RF/mitsu amp on line and through forums. Anyone???

 

Well, I was almost ready to post a similar question Christmas week when 2 hours into an 8 hour round trip the sub started making some crackling noise, a few minutes later, NO sound from the whole MMCS. Wound up finishing the trip with no sound, missed a few turns because the GPS wasn't talking either .

Later back at home, I used the online service manual to diagnose the amp, it said, replace the amp. Thanks to someone else on this forum for the link the that manual, it has helped for a few things already.

I then removed the amp which required removing the front seat. Opened up the amp and found definite liquid damage. The part number on my amp is the SAME as yours.

Purchased a replacement online for $140, but they wound up refunding my money because they found out it was damaged.
Found a used one on eBay for $319. It's still there now for sale....

But I decided to get mine repaired at the local repair shop. They repaired it in just a few hours for a flat fee of $200 including return shipping. It works just fine now! They are a BIG place, and should be able to repair yours just fine, and I do recommend them, but return shipping to Canada?????

PS. when I dropped off the amp, I got to talk to the repair tech face to face and he said these amps are also know to go bad from overheating. He thinks due to no dielectric grease under the heatsink (that is one BIG heatsink!)

Hope this helps...

 

Wow, a way better repair bill then buying new. I saw that ad on ebay, but from what I have read elsewhere they changed models, or something early 09 and that number is not the same. I am not sure what if any difference there is apart from number, but not sure I am willing to take a $319 gamble. I dropped a email to the repair shop that you used so will see what I hear back from them on shipping possibilities and charges. On that same direction, I also sent an email to a local repair shop to see their capabilities. Will update as the adventure continues on.

Mitsubishi told me radio and amp were both shot, which seems strange and was wondering if anyone knows a way to check the radios function without just plugging in a new amp???I guess I am slightly worried that the radio may have caused the problem and plugging the new/repaired amp into a bad radio head may cause it to go again???

Also, as an aside, I gave the dealership my vin number and they quoted me part numbers for amp and radio head, but upon inspection neither radio, nor amp numbers have been correct???