2005 Outlander XLS starting problem after refueling.
#1
2005 Outlander XLS starting problem after refueling.
When I refuel with gas, I have a problem starting my vehicle, I need to hold the gas pedal down hard to the floor then it will start, but I need to keep the revs up for a short while so as it will not die on me, then all is okay until I refuel again.
Any help would be appreciated.
Brian
Any help would be appreciated.
Brian
#2
This is only the first start after refueling then it's fine until you run out of gas again and refuel?
Have you tried filing up at half tank?
What about just opening the gas cap and pushing the little door open with a stick for a moment, closing it and putting the cap back on and then starting?
Have you tried filing up at half tank?
What about just opening the gas cap and pushing the little door open with a stick for a moment, closing it and putting the cap back on and then starting?
#3
Hi Guyfromhe,
Re your question "This is only the first start after refueling then it's fine until you run out of gas again and refuel?" Yes it only happens when I refuel, the fuel tank was down to about 1/4 full when I filled up.
The previous fill was only 1/2 tank, had the same problem.
Thanks
Brian
Re your question "This is only the first start after refueling then it's fine until you run out of gas again and refuel?" Yes it only happens when I refuel, the fuel tank was down to about 1/4 full when I filled up.
The previous fill was only 1/2 tank, had the same problem.
Thanks
Brian
#4
Try the motions of refueling at home like I suggested above and see if you can reproduce the problem then and report back.
If that doesn't work when your below half tank put in $5 or $10 worth and see if the problem happens with that.
If that doesn't work when your below half tank put in $5 or $10 worth and see if the problem happens with that.
#5
Are you topping off?
If you top off, you can force gas into the vapor capture system. It's sort of like the old vapor lock syndrome from the 70's/80's American cars. If you get gas into the purge canister it will dry and clear out once you're under way.
If you top off, you can force gas into the vapor capture system. It's sort of like the old vapor lock syndrome from the 70's/80's American cars. If you get gas into the purge canister it will dry and clear out once you're under way.
#7
True, but let's imagine that there is an inch of fluid in the bottom of the canister, and when refueling, the vapors are being forced into this canister as they are displaced by the incoming fuel, which stirs up the fluid at the bottom. Now the valve that vents that canister is not supposed to open up until the engine is running (where you've have to force the engine into full-dump cold-loop start - aka max fuel injector pulse width setting). It is possible to "flood" your intake manifold with these fumes. That's why it chugs until the manifold and egr/vapor system is flowing again.
The link below shows the location of the canister which should be behind the drivers side wheel, don't know if you want to unbolt or disconnect it and see if you can dry it out?
The other possibility is that in over-filling the system, fuel made it to the solenoid that controls the purge valve and mucked it up. Should be one of the pics in the link below too. If you don't have a check engine light, the valve is opening and closing well enough to avoid setting a code.
Eventually, it should dry itself out (unless the solenoid was damaged). I'd disconnect it and see if there are any signs of major liquid with a flashlight or cotton swab. The summer heat is probably making things worse by keeping those fumes potent
https://www.google.com/search?q=evap...M5TQyivzemM%3A
The link below shows the location of the canister which should be behind the drivers side wheel, don't know if you want to unbolt or disconnect it and see if you can dry it out?
The other possibility is that in over-filling the system, fuel made it to the solenoid that controls the purge valve and mucked it up. Should be one of the pics in the link below too. If you don't have a check engine light, the valve is opening and closing well enough to avoid setting a code.
Eventually, it should dry itself out (unless the solenoid was damaged). I'd disconnect it and see if there are any signs of major liquid with a flashlight or cotton swab. The summer heat is probably making things worse by keeping those fumes potent
https://www.google.com/search?q=evap...M5TQyivzemM%3A
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