2007-2008 Outlander Reliability
#11
ruski,
Do you think this car is overpriced? It has almost 100k miles, but very premium equipment. We are taking a test drive Saturday, and we are going to see this car later. It's not as well equipped but has 39k miles and 1 year/ 11k miles warranty left. Which one would you recommend, and do you think we can get any of those for $10-$11k?
Thanks everyone who chimed in so far. Seems like Outlander is a very reliable car, I cross checked with Edmunds and cars@aol. I wonder why these are not more popular.
Do you think this car is overpriced? It has almost 100k miles, but very premium equipment. We are taking a test drive Saturday, and we are going to see this car later. It's not as well equipped but has 39k miles and 1 year/ 11k miles warranty left. Which one would you recommend, and do you think we can get any of those for $10-$11k?
Thanks everyone who chimed in so far. Seems like Outlander is a very reliable car, I cross checked with Edmunds and cars@aol. I wonder why these are not more popular.
#12
Your 2nd one is still too high. Granted, it is a 4 year old vehicle with insanely low miles, it is still 4 years old and is only 2WD. IMO, the vehicle is a bit too heavy for a front wheel drive...4wd is much better.
I picked my 07 up in 2009 with 30k miles and got it for $16.5. We got $4k for the trade in.
I'd say if you were wanting to whittle them down, start discussing total cost of ownership.
Some of those really aren't that big of deal, but when negotiating a price, everything is important. They will try to nickel dime you up, you have to nickel dime them down.
I picked my 07 up in 2009 with 30k miles and got it for $16.5. We got $4k for the trade in.
I'd say if you were wanting to whittle them down, start discussing total cost of ownership.
- Many of the fluids and repairs say that they need to be "genuine Mitsubishi". Technically, you can't go to an aftermarket shop to change coolant, brakes, tranny. As we've found in the forums, the only fluid not readily available aftermarket is the tranny fluid.
- How difficult will repairs be? As in proximity of the stealership, how many stealerships in the area...
- Supply & Demand...Americans are not scrambling to buy Mitsubishi as much as Chevy and Ford...low demand...lower price.
- Used warranty in the states is 5yr/60k mile...that 08 doesn't have much left on it
- Does carfax have maintenance reports on there? how do you know they were done?
Some of those really aren't that big of deal, but when negotiating a price, everything is important. They will try to nickel dime you up, you have to nickel dime them down.
#13
If you look on Blackbook at what a 2007 loaded XLS trades for, it's about $8-9K.
Just a month ago, a local Honda dealer looked at my 2008 Outlander XLS (loaded with all options except Rockford Fosgate stereo), at 61K miles, and only offered $10K (although Blackbook says it should be close to $12K).
How do you get the Blackbook data? - Many dealership websites have a link "find out what your car is worth" or something like that.
Just a month ago, a local Honda dealer looked at my 2008 Outlander XLS (loaded with all options except Rockford Fosgate stereo), at 61K miles, and only offered $10K (although Blackbook says it should be close to $12K).
How do you get the Blackbook data? - Many dealership websites have a link "find out what your car is worth" or something like that.
#14
Your 2nd one is still too high. Granted, it is a 4 year old vehicle with insanely low miles, it is still 4 years old and is only 2WD. IMO, the vehicle is a bit too heavy for a front wheel drive...4wd is much better.
I picked my 07 up in 2009 with 30k miles and got it for $16.5. We got $4k for the trade in.
I'd say if you were wanting to whittle them down, start discussing total cost of ownership.
Some of those really aren't that big of deal, but when negotiating a price, everything is important. They will try to nickel dime you up, you have to nickel dime them down.
I picked my 07 up in 2009 with 30k miles and got it for $16.5. We got $4k for the trade in.
I'd say if you were wanting to whittle them down, start discussing total cost of ownership.
- Many of the fluids and repairs say that they need to be "genuine Mitsubishi". Technically, you can't go to an aftermarket shop to change coolant, brakes, tranny. As we've found in the forums, the only fluid not readily available aftermarket is the tranny fluid.
- How difficult will repairs be? As in proximity of the stealership, how many stealerships in the area...
- Supply & Demand...Americans are not scrambling to buy Mitsubishi as much as Chevy and Ford...low demand...lower price.
- Used warranty in the states is 5yr/60k mile...that 08 doesn't have much left on it
- Does carfax have maintenance reports on there? how do you know they were done?
Some of those really aren't that big of deal, but when negotiating a price, everything is important. They will try to nickel dime you up, you have to nickel dime them down.
Hold on... is Mitsubishi brake fluid is also special?
#15
Are you talking about Kelly BLUE Book??? http://www.kbb.com/
Just ran trade in value for a loaded 2007..... yes, about $10k (good think I only owe $3k)
#17
My maintenance manual list coolant for the 6B31 engine for the V6 doesn't need to be changed for 100k miles and many years. Then I believe 60k afterwards.
The link is confusing but I'd go by the maintenance manual
Other engines such as in the Evo or Endeavor you have to change fairly often.
The link is confusing but I'd go by the maintenance manual
Other engines such as in the Evo or Endeavor you have to change fairly often.
#18
Thanks for the input guys! We got 2008 Outlander with 39k miles + 4 year / 60k warranty, and we are extremely happy with the car so far. We have driven about 300 miles now and car handles great, is very comfortable and spacious. Thanks for the tips about fluids, we plan to do all the maintenance through Mitsubishi but it's good to know anyway.
#19
I hope you did NOT buy the Outlander. This has been the worst vehicle I have ever owned and it has been in for service more than any other car ever! There are things on it that have not worked right since day one. And every problem anyone has had I have had them all. And all the dealerships that used to be around here had no clue how to fix anything. Ok, where do I start? No power, unsafe how slow it is on takeoff! Rear windows rolled up off track since day 1 and I had to fix that because Mitsu techs are too stupid. Service reminder thinks I should drive like 17,000 miles before oil change! And now it has been parked for a month because it has a busted cv joint that is covered under warranty but Mitsu Corp rep for my area is a complete bitch and is trying to get out of covering it because mitsu wants $900 for a stupid cv shaft. What ever you do, do not buy a Mitsubishi!!!! All local dealers closed and now the closest one is 3 hours away. Worst purchase ever!
#20
I hope you did NOT buy the Outlander. This has been the worst vehicle I have ever owned and it has been in for service more than any other car ever! There are things on it that have not worked right since day one. And every problem anyone has had I have had them all. And all the dealerships that used to be around here had no clue how to fix anything. Ok, where do I start? No power, unsafe how slow it is on takeoff! Rear windows rolled up off track since day 1 and I had to fix that because Mitsu techs are too stupid. Service reminder thinks I should drive like 17,000 miles before oil change! And now it has been parked for a month because it has a busted cv joint that is covered under warranty but Mitsu Corp rep for my area is a complete bitch and is trying to get out of covering it because mitsu wants $900 for a stupid cv shaft. What ever you do, do not buy a Mitsubishi!!!! All local dealers closed and now the closest one is 3 hours away. Worst purchase ever!
Might help to put your vehicle specs in your signature. Not all Outlanders were created equal. The 3.0L is far from gutless, especially with AWD. My ranger is gutless.
The mileage indicator is an easy fix...there is a sticky on it. To completely clear time/distance indicator, turn the reminder off, then back on.