2016 Outlander SEL DRLs not coming on
Member
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 62
From: North Alabama
I asked a question to the forum about this in the ETACS thread, but I didn't get an answer. I haven't done any ETACS mods so I don't know if this will work. It's a bit of an investment to get ETACS so I wanted to know if anyone had experience with the DRL and ETACS. Do you?
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 220
From: SF CA
OMFG. Success. Etacs is the solution.
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 220
From: SF CA
Sure. It's not that hard (once you figure out all the pieces), but there are a lot of potential hiccups with ETACS that I was fortunate not to encounter unlike many others. Also, one caveat, my DRL's are basically the regular headlamps right now. I can't tell if it's lower intensity or if there is anything different about them at all. They are not the parking light LED's only. I still have to play around with some ETACS settings to see if I can get the parking lights to be the DRL's, but I'll take this for now. [edit] I got the parking LED's to act as the DRL's. Instructions edited below.
1) Need to move (and later replace) a relay in the engine hood fusebox. See attached pic. The circled relay in the lower left is missing on the 2016 (possibly other years, but I don't know for sure). I removed the de-icer relay two slots to the right and put it in the DRL socket for now. [edit] Ordered replacement relay from digikey.com. Part to search for is Panasonic ACVN51212. $7 including shipping.
2) Bought this cable from Amazon. Only $19!
3) Download ETACS Decoder. Latest version is 4.1.1.4 as of this post. You need to have a RAR extracting program to open/use file. I believe WinRAR is what I used. If you don't have, it's shareware.
http://etacsdecoder.com/forum/attachment.php?aid=1162
4) Follow these instructions in the link directly below to load drivers. It gets real difficult to follow here. The reason being, all of the past info is on an obsolete Lexia cable and old software. You need to find the relevant driver instructions on the Toyota Mini-VCI cable. The drivers are real particular for 32 bit vs. 64 bit, Windows XP vs. Windows 7+. This can get real confusing if you don't have a 32 bit Win XP machine. Luckily I did, so I didn't run into any additional issues here. There is a real good Toyota forum thread on how to load this on a Win 7+/64 bit laptop (people are most likely to have this), but I can't comment or advise as I didn't go that route. I installed probably more than I needed to, but I suspect the ones that mattered were the Toyota MVCI driver and XHorse (for Toyota MCVI).
ETACS Decoder forum - ETACS Decoder FAQ
5) Open Program. Register an account in options tab. This program is free for personal use. They enforce this by limiting saves to 2 per 24 hour period and requiring that you are online to use it. This is why I haven't been able to do more testing and configuring since I have to wait 24 hours each time. You can also buy more saves or unlimited amount for certain period. After registering and seeing that you have 2 saves in the upper right, close Program.
6) Connect the cable to the OBD2 in your car (under interior fusebox). Connect the cable to the USB on your laptop. Make sure you switch the driver to "MVCI for Etacs Decoder" on Options tab and make sure you switch on the program in the upper left if it doesn't start automatically. You will see the VIN getting pulled from your vehicle and the indicator lights on the lower left will turn colors other than red to indicate you have a connection and drivers are all working correctly.
7) For DRL's, go to the first tab ETACS Variant. Scroll down the options list into the 90's (on my 2016 GT, might be different number of options depending on model), there are 2 settings that need to be switched one at a time. I tried to do both at once and it didn't work. Do option 99 (the second of the two), first. Switch it to "Present (can change)". Then press "Encode", then press "Write to ETACS". Follow the instructions. After restarting, when it asks if you want to "restore...", the answer is YES. You will lose one of your saves after this. You have one more to change the setting #98. DRL - "Present Normal". This is the one I used to get it to work initially. I later found out that "Independent with P" is the ideal setting. This one uses the parking LED's and only when you have the parking brake off. Again press "Encode", then "Write to ETACS". Follow on screen instructions again.
Wasn't very hard (after filtering all of the noise in the ETACS instructions for days, maybe weeks), but I didn't run into any driver or program issues that others have. If that happens, I'm happy to help via PM, but I'm not close to the expert on this (obviously). Also, if any of this is really confusing, I can clarify the write-up.
Cool thing is after you get that figured out, there are a ton of settings that you can play with on your Mits, albeit 2 per day. The forum threads and how-to's should make more sense after you have one under your belt.
You ever watch the Soup **** episode of Seinfeld? This is it for real. Don't ask dumb questions on any ETACS forums, read every possible forum thread. You will get banned from using this program by the owner. He has done a really great thing by making this program and offering support for FREE, but I assume he has grown tired of repetitive and lazy questions and doesn't tolerate it anymore. You have been warned or... No soup for you!
For more info, ETACS Thread. Yes, I suggest you absorb all 131 pages of it before even thinking about asking a question to the ETACS gurus:
https://mitsubishiforum.com/forum/mi...ization-40223/
1) Need to move (and later replace) a relay in the engine hood fusebox. See attached pic. The circled relay in the lower left is missing on the 2016 (possibly other years, but I don't know for sure). I removed the de-icer relay two slots to the right and put it in the DRL socket for now. [edit] Ordered replacement relay from digikey.com. Part to search for is Panasonic ACVN51212. $7 including shipping.
2) Bought this cable from Amazon. Only $19!
3) Download ETACS Decoder. Latest version is 4.1.1.4 as of this post. You need to have a RAR extracting program to open/use file. I believe WinRAR is what I used. If you don't have, it's shareware.
http://etacsdecoder.com/forum/attachment.php?aid=1162
4) Follow these instructions in the link directly below to load drivers. It gets real difficult to follow here. The reason being, all of the past info is on an obsolete Lexia cable and old software. You need to find the relevant driver instructions on the Toyota Mini-VCI cable. The drivers are real particular for 32 bit vs. 64 bit, Windows XP vs. Windows 7+. This can get real confusing if you don't have a 32 bit Win XP machine. Luckily I did, so I didn't run into any additional issues here. There is a real good Toyota forum thread on how to load this on a Win 7+/64 bit laptop (people are most likely to have this), but I can't comment or advise as I didn't go that route. I installed probably more than I needed to, but I suspect the ones that mattered were the Toyota MVCI driver and XHorse (for Toyota MCVI).
ETACS Decoder forum - ETACS Decoder FAQ
5) Open Program. Register an account in options tab. This program is free for personal use. They enforce this by limiting saves to 2 per 24 hour period and requiring that you are online to use it. This is why I haven't been able to do more testing and configuring since I have to wait 24 hours each time. You can also buy more saves or unlimited amount for certain period. After registering and seeing that you have 2 saves in the upper right, close Program.
6) Connect the cable to the OBD2 in your car (under interior fusebox). Connect the cable to the USB on your laptop. Make sure you switch the driver to "MVCI for Etacs Decoder" on Options tab and make sure you switch on the program in the upper left if it doesn't start automatically. You will see the VIN getting pulled from your vehicle and the indicator lights on the lower left will turn colors other than red to indicate you have a connection and drivers are all working correctly.
7) For DRL's, go to the first tab ETACS Variant. Scroll down the options list into the 90's (on my 2016 GT, might be different number of options depending on model), there are 2 settings that need to be switched one at a time. I tried to do both at once and it didn't work. Do option 99 (the second of the two), first. Switch it to "Present (can change)". Then press "Encode", then press "Write to ETACS". Follow the instructions. After restarting, when it asks if you want to "restore...", the answer is YES. You will lose one of your saves after this. You have one more to change the setting #98. DRL - "Present Normal". This is the one I used to get it to work initially. I later found out that "Independent with P" is the ideal setting. This one uses the parking LED's and only when you have the parking brake off. Again press "Encode", then "Write to ETACS". Follow on screen instructions again.
Wasn't very hard (after filtering all of the noise in the ETACS instructions for days, maybe weeks), but I didn't run into any driver or program issues that others have. If that happens, I'm happy to help via PM, but I'm not close to the expert on this (obviously). Also, if any of this is really confusing, I can clarify the write-up.
Cool thing is after you get that figured out, there are a ton of settings that you can play with on your Mits, albeit 2 per day. The forum threads and how-to's should make more sense after you have one under your belt.
You ever watch the Soup **** episode of Seinfeld? This is it for real. Don't ask dumb questions on any ETACS forums, read every possible forum thread. You will get banned from using this program by the owner. He has done a really great thing by making this program and offering support for FREE, but I assume he has grown tired of repetitive and lazy questions and doesn't tolerate it anymore. You have been warned or... No soup for you!
For more info, ETACS Thread. Yes, I suggest you absorb all 131 pages of it before even thinking about asking a question to the ETACS gurus:
https://mitsubishiforum.com/forum/mi...ization-40223/
Last edited by theSaint024; Mar 17, 2016 at 12:46 PM. Reason: Added detail and updates
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 220
From: SF CA
I tried to adjust the DRL's since there are a couple more settings I could try, but my IP got inadvertently blocked for attempting Spam?! ETACS Decoder is a bit touchy, so I can't even explain how it happened. Anyway, looks like my block is over, but I still don't have my 2 new writes available for trying. I don't even know how to buy writes because the options are confusing. Will try again tonight and report back when I have DRL's the way I want. At least I know one person is benefiting from this post. Can't wait to attempt some other things that are bugging me.
