AC / DC Inverter Install - DIY w/ Pics
In many outlanders sold outside the USA you can purchase a AC Kit which places a Inverter under your passenger seat and a AC outlet in the center console located next to the DC outlet. In addition to this I also wanted to place a AC outlet in the cargo area of my Outlander on the passenger side of the car.
For the purpose of my installation just adding the OEM items was not going to be enough since the OEM version is only 100w and is only able to support a single outlet. Most of the items I need AC power for wont fit in the center console area, and only having 100w would be somewhat limiting in what it could used for.
Parts Needed: *CONTACT mitsupartsman.com on this forum to purchase OEM parts listed below*
[ul][*] Philips Head Screw Driver[*] AC plug p/n mn141360 $35.00 [*] console box p/n 8011a410 $30.00 [*] inverter under the pass seat p/n 8638a001 $325.00 (this inverter is a over priced piece of junk buy a good one for 1/4 the cost)[*] Real Inverter Black & Decker 750w Power Inverter w/ USB [*] Male to Female USB Cable (length based on where you decide you want the usb power to be placed. example here. you can also find these in neon if you like.[*] Soldering Iron and Solder
[/ul]
Step 1:
Locate the fuse for the AC Power for the car. The fuse is a 15w fuse on the Fuse Sub Panel in the interior of the car. The fuse panel is located behind the coin holder to the left side of the steering wheel.


To access the fuse panel simply open the coin holder and give it a pull and it will pop right out.
This fuse should be removed while doing this project as the line we are going to use is live all the time.
Step 2:
Locate the Factory installed power line for the AC / DC Inverter.
This line is located under the carpet of the passenger side seat. To reach it remove the floor paneling near the driver side door.
Remove this panel by giving it a bit of a pull, it is only secured with clips.

This cable is secured via electrical tape. You will need to undo the tape and reroute the cable it the left most opening in the carpet under the passenger seat (closest to the passenger door).

Step 3
Wiring
Since only the factory oem inverter is equipped with port for this cable your going to need to patch into the plug (I do not suggest splicing the cable simply stop at your local radio shack and make a new plug that allows you to patch into it.
You will notice a total of 5 wires in the plug.
Yellow: Incoming Positive
Black: Incoming Negative
White:Outgoing Negative
Red: Outgoing Positive
Grey: Ground Line
Attach your incoming positive for the inverter to the yellow line, and incoming negative to the black line. Since most inverters to dont supply a easy way to attach lines for outgoing power you will most likely need to open your inverter and solder the remaining lines into one of the plugs. White goes to the negative, Red to positive and grey to the ground. Note that once you have done this there will be a live power line in your center console area, you will need to install the plug or cap these off.
Step 4:
Mount the inverter under the passenger seat using the factory screw points which are 5 3/4 inches apart (this is the standard distance on mount points for most inverters). This will require 2 screws.
Step 5:
Replace the fuse in the fuse box. YOU ARE COMPUTER DOES NOT NEED TO BE REPROGRAMMED FOR THIS TO WORK!
The pictures show the test inverter I was using to do this simply cause I wanted to make sure this all worked before I spent the money on the inverter intended to use for long term us, just incase I blow up the inverter or something. You would think I would have been more concerned about blowing something in the cars computer system and not the inverter but i didnt think that far ahead. Final install is with the black and decker linked above.
You should keep in mind that the inverter is always powered even when the car is turned off. In other words dont leave something that pulls alot of power plug in while the car is running cause it will drain your battery, and no one wants a dead battery. When purchasing your inverter it is best to purchase one with a on / off switch and keep it turned off when its not in use.


YOUR DONE YOU NOW HAVE AN INVERTER IN YOUR CAR. Stay tuned for an update to this post for installing the outlets in the center console and the rear cargo area as I am still awaiting the parts to arrive. I will be adding a USB power port in the dash below the MMC, a AC plug in the center console, and a AC adaptor in the rear cargo area once the parts have arrived so stay tuned.
For the purpose of my installation just adding the OEM items was not going to be enough since the OEM version is only 100w and is only able to support a single outlet. Most of the items I need AC power for wont fit in the center console area, and only having 100w would be somewhat limiting in what it could used for.
Parts Needed: *CONTACT mitsupartsman.com on this forum to purchase OEM parts listed below*
[ul][*] Philips Head Screw Driver[*] AC plug p/n mn141360 $35.00 [*] console box p/n 8011a410 $30.00 [*] inverter under the pass seat p/n 8638a001 $325.00 (this inverter is a over priced piece of junk buy a good one for 1/4 the cost)[*] Real Inverter Black & Decker 750w Power Inverter w/ USB [*] Male to Female USB Cable (length based on where you decide you want the usb power to be placed. example here. you can also find these in neon if you like.[*] Soldering Iron and Solder
[/ul]
Step 1:
Locate the fuse for the AC Power for the car. The fuse is a 15w fuse on the Fuse Sub Panel in the interior of the car. The fuse panel is located behind the coin holder to the left side of the steering wheel.


To access the fuse panel simply open the coin holder and give it a pull and it will pop right out.
This fuse should be removed while doing this project as the line we are going to use is live all the time.
Step 2:
Locate the Factory installed power line for the AC / DC Inverter.
This line is located under the carpet of the passenger side seat. To reach it remove the floor paneling near the driver side door.
jsrd

This cable is secured via electrical tape. You will need to undo the tape and reroute the cable it the left most opening in the carpet under the passenger seat (closest to the passenger door).

Step 3
Wiring
Since only the factory oem inverter is equipped with port for this cable your going to need to patch into the plug (I do not suggest splicing the cable simply stop at your local radio shack and make a new plug that allows you to patch into it.
You will notice a total of 5 wires in the plug.
Yellow: Incoming Positive
Black: Incoming Negative
White:Outgoing Negative
Red: Outgoing Positive
Grey: Ground Line
Attach your incoming positive for the inverter to the yellow line, and incoming negative to the black line. Since most inverters to dont supply a easy way to attach lines for outgoing power you will most likely need to open your inverter and solder the remaining lines into one of the plugs. White goes to the negative, Red to positive and grey to the ground. Note that once you have done this there will be a live power line in your center console area, you will need to install the plug or cap these off.
Step 4:
Mount the inverter under the passenger seat using the factory screw points which are 5 3/4 inches apart (this is the standard distance on mount points for most inverters). This will require 2 screws.
Step 5:
Replace the fuse in the fuse box. YOU ARE COMPUTER DOES NOT NEED TO BE REPROGRAMMED FOR THIS TO WORK!
The pictures show the test inverter I was using to do this simply cause I wanted to make sure this all worked before I spent the money on the inverter intended to use for long term us, just incase I blow up the inverter or something. You would think I would have been more concerned about blowing something in the cars computer system and not the inverter but i didnt think that far ahead. Final install is with the black and decker linked above.
You should keep in mind that the inverter is always powered even when the car is turned off. In other words dont leave something that pulls alot of power plug in while the car is running cause it will drain your battery, and no one wants a dead battery. When purchasing your inverter it is best to purchase one with a on / off switch and keep it turned off when its not in use.


YOUR DONE YOU NOW HAVE AN INVERTER IN YOUR CAR. Stay tuned for an update to this post for installing the outlets in the center console and the rear cargo area as I am still awaiting the parts to arrive. I will be adding a USB power port in the dash below the MMC, a AC plug in the center console, and a AC adaptor in the rear cargo area once the parts have arrived so stay tuned.
If you are trying to install a 1000w inverter in the back of the vehicle...I strongly recommend re-running a fused & switched 12v power cable capable of 1000w. that has a max amperage of 83 amps. I highly doubt the OEM wiring will handle that.
Been doing some research,
I'm still figuring out location, either under the seat or in the "rear" trunk area. Where the jack is located.
I'm look to run a positive 1/0 gauge copper wire up to 10 feet hopefully less hooked to the battery (Less distance the better) and the negative close by on the chassis. Definitely putting a fuse on the positive cable (12V 150AMP should do).
I got this Duralast 1000w power inverter/ 2000w peak. I would use it when I'm out at the beach and after StormSandy run a few things in the house if needed.
Has anyone used or done this to there Outlander?
Replacing the puny 100W one I have under the passenger seat is out of question. I can't imagine that handling more than a 300W inverter.
Thanks for the support love this forum.... Already did the DVD in motion patch and added the video component behind the arm rest. I'm running XBMC off of a onboard Raspberry Pi.
Just wish someone had the updated US GPS maps CD. My current maps even have roads missing... A shame Mitsubishi doesn't give it for free....
I'm still figuring out location, either under the seat or in the "rear" trunk area. Where the jack is located.
I'm look to run a positive 1/0 gauge copper wire up to 10 feet hopefully less hooked to the battery (Less distance the better) and the negative close by on the chassis. Definitely putting a fuse on the positive cable (12V 150AMP should do).
I got this Duralast 1000w power inverter/ 2000w peak. I would use it when I'm out at the beach and after StormSandy run a few things in the house if needed.
Has anyone used or done this to there Outlander?
Replacing the puny 100W one I have under the passenger seat is out of question. I can't imagine that handling more than a 300W inverter.
Thanks for the support love this forum.... Already did the DVD in motion patch and added the video component behind the arm rest. I'm running XBMC off of a onboard Raspberry Pi.
Just wish someone had the updated US GPS maps CD. My current maps even have roads missing... A shame Mitsubishi doesn't give it for free....
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