I did the OEM wire harness and the installation was not bad.
Some notes:
Needed to remove air duct to get to the battery. (not in the instructions)
Did not have to remove the exhaust as the instructions indicated.
I had the most pain trying to snap in the plug for the hole where the wires go thru.

Any way to test that it works without actually plugging it to a trailer?
I need to rent a uhaul trailor but I want to make sure the lights will work before I get there.

 

Get a tester from Reese

http://www.reeseprod.com/content/pro...590&part=20114

or

http://www.etrailer.com/Tools/Curt/I26.html

They have all the configurations possible

 

Thanks much!
I ended up using a current tester and I was able to confirm it was working.

 

I've installed hitch too. Bought used Draw Tite Class III hitch off Kijij.
It came without bolts so I had a hard times looking for missing M10 1.25 CL8.8 bolts.
Luckily my mechanic was able to find them for me in his junk

I did not expect the hitch to be class III (ad described it as a class II), so thick and heavy metal with 2" connector was quite surprizing. Naturally, my class II ball did not fit.
Moreover, the Thule 3 bike carrier I was going to use appeared to be made for European type ball so it did not fit the ball.

I did not give up, so I bought 2">1.25" adapter and tricked a bit rack's ball mount.

After about 30 minutes of tinkering I got my kid's bike on the rack.

As the two connections (hitch to adapter and adapter to ball) combined had quite a noticable slack (while driving the bike rotated transversely about 7"), I've applied the same highmolecular tape I was using to treat my squeeking 3rd row latches.

Now most of the looseness is gone, bike is quite stable.

The side but positive effect of the convertor is moving the rack so far back so it does not block both parts of tailgate from opening.

Some pics:

 

I used this guide to install a 5 pin plug on my car because my boat trailer has hydrolic brakes. The only thing im lost on is the last wire (reverse). I thought it was the purple wire in the passenger rear wheel well as per your pictures but it seems react like a signal when i test it. Could you provide me with any info so i can wire my brake lighting?

 

Try red with grey strip.

 

I did a Curt hitch install yesterday & I had nothing but trouble. The thing showed up at my door with the unit sticking through the box & it must have gotten tweaked cause the bolt holes were off by about 1/2 half a hole. After a few attempts & quite a few whacks with a mallet I was finally able to get it lined up & bolted in place. I had the dealer install the OEM wiring cause I just brought the car last week & I didn't want any issues with the warrientee. One problem I noticed is when I went to put the spare tire back I had to use my floor jack to get it up past the hitch. Not a big deal in my garage but I can see this being a real PIA with a flat out on the road...

 

I installed the Curt hitch last year, never had a problem. -I lower the spare tire almost at every oil change, to make sure it’s lubed up and will lower when needed. It is a bit tight once you get it to the hitch area, but I never had to use excessive force. You should have enough room to wedge the spare in without the use of a jack.

 

I tested the red line with grey stripes and saw that reacted like a signal light.

 

Well maybe I was just having a bad day or maybe the 2011's have a bigger spare? All I know is I wont buy a Curt product or recommend them to anyone. Plus the help desk was
no help at all. They would take the thing back but only if I paid shipping.

Jazzbipy - 2011 Outlander