Ive stated in previous posts about this already..

buy the factory harness. Its designed for it.

People trying to save a buck will cost themselves in the long run when they "pop" a transistorized control circuit for the lighting, and then have to buy a 500 dollar control unit.

 

Pinning to the top RD.
Great write up once again.

 

Okay I have updated completely. Modulite #118176 wiring harness works properly.

Manybrews and I will have to agree to disagee on this one - this harness has integrated circuit protection, isolated direct power supply and will not harm any other circuits, ECU's, transistorized chips or what have you. It is designed not to interfere with any of the tow vehicle's computer systems or anti-lock brakes.

 

perhaps the harness you installed.
but the ones most will be installing are generic "one size fits all" units from various autoparts stores that completely applies the added amperage draw to the factory circuits.
Ive seen this far too many times to not warn people about the possible damage they can cause.
The factory system is reliable, plugs right in, and is designed for it. An added 40 bucks is not really that big of an investment when most have already spent 20-25 grand on their truck.

but to each their own.

 

I agree with Manybrews with the "one size fits all" plugs. I've seen friends use those generic ones and have their turn signals and interior lights go bonkers on them....fast flashing and what have you.

I agree, with Rdenis too. I've seen..just seen..those higher priced tow plugs with it's own built in circuitry and it and it seems to appeal to my common sense to use those over the generic plugs for reason Manybrews stated.

I don't believe that things like these need to be from the dealership. The aftermarket world knows that just adding on an extra bulb to one side will lower that side's electrical resistance and cause that side to die faster and cause numerous electrical bo bo's. That's the whole reason for using relays and such in a lot of aftermarket installs (relays on remote wires, add on power sources, etc.).
IMO, spend that extra little bit now or spend 10x more later.

 

I wouldn't try to disuade anyone from the factory harness - just wanted to be clear there is an alternative that is not some cheapass generic which is going to fry your system - besides, $40 buys me three cases of cold beer! [sm=icon_cheers.gif]

 

Another great write up. Genius!

 

Thanks again for a great write-up contributor rdennis.

With the moderator's permission, assuming you acquired your Curt Hitch through the internet, might you be able to furnish the dealer with which you effected business. $140 seems like a pretty good price to me! : - )

Thanks.

 

question: would the OEM wiring kit have eliminated the need to both draw towing wiring from the vehicle's rear to the vehicle's battery in front (as done here), as well as eliminated the need to snip off the towing wiring connector in the passenger's rear wheel well (as done here)--as the kit--presumably would have interfaced directly with this connector?

 

Re: the OEM:

It operates on the same principle - ie. it isolates the trailer amperage draw from the Outies systems. Itplugs straight into the wheel well connectorso you don't need to cut/splice. But you will still need to make the direct battery connection - the Outie hasthe wiring in place for this as I have detailed, you just need to make the direct battery connection under the hood- do not short cut this by tapping intoanother supply such as accessory power, etc.

I bought my hitch direct from a retailer in Canada who had it in stock. Cheapest I.ve seen them on-line is at bageco.com for $129.99.