yet another question... after i made all the final connections to the wiring harness i noticed that my turn signal flasher is much faster. is this adding to the current draw and am i in danger of overloading my circuits?? do i need to install a heavy duty flasher relay to fix this problem?

thanks for your input!

 

Check all your connections - your flasher speedneeds to/should be the same - if it is speeding up you may have a loose connection somewhere. I had the same issue my first go through.

The flasher is electronic - not a typical mechanical relay.

 

One other change I made from the first time through is I grounded the Modulite harness directly to the chassis rather than connecting to the ground wire in the Mits connector.

 

i will recheck my connections when i get home from work. however, everything works correctly (left turn, right turn, stop, and running lights). one thing i did was make a connection to the black/white wire (ground) to the ground wire on the harness AND also connected those two wires directly to the chassis. if you had the same problem with your flashers and solved itbypassing the black/white mits wire going directly to ground (chassis) then that could be the problem. i will keep you posted.

 

The more I think about this the more I suspect the Mits ground wire is the issue - likely picking up some electrical noise which is backfeeding in the module causing the fast flasher. I think once you bypass it will solve the problem.

 

if your flashers have sped up, your are incorrectly applying the trailer circuit draw to the cars... which is exactly what you're not suppost to do.

 

yes you are correct. the black/white wire that is part ofthe Outie trailer circuit (refer to rdenis'spics)does not get connected to the ground wire on the Modulite trailer harness. insteadconnect the white wire on the Moduliteharness directly to the chassis. everything works correctly now and my flasher speed is normal. thanks again for the helpful post and step through proceedure by rdenis. kudos dude!

 

Glad it worked - I have updated the OP to warn off using the Mits ground wire and to ground directly to the chassis.

 

I came home to a present today. My new Curt hitch arrived.


It took about 45 mins to install including photos and everything.

One note I will make is on the exhaust hangers. They come off pretty easy if you mix up some dishsoap and water in a spray bottle and spray the hangers well prior to removing. I took all three off with no problems at all. The exhaust just drops to the ground with all three off, giving plenty of clearance to work. The install has been covered quite well already but I thought I would add my ballmount pics and specs. Yes, the tailgate goes down and does not hit anything. The ball mount is a DrawTite. It is 8-1/8" long from center of pin hole to center of ball hole and has 2-3/4" rise or 4" drop from the top of the hitch's receiver tube. I got everything from etrailer.com.Shipping is only $0.99 for anything over $150. The hitch was $149. I also got a bag to put the ball mount, pins and Convert-A-Ball kit in. It all fits in the bag and the bag fits under the drivers seat nicely. Now I am just waiting for the call from the dealer saying that the wiring harness is in.

Wiring Harness Update (6/22/07):
I installed the Mitsubishi harness last night (new pics below). The included directions are plenty good. Two items I would note however, are about the battery and the muffler.

1. I did not have to remove, or even loosen the battery from the battery tray. Hardest part was finding the connector which is in front of the battery, not beside or behind as I was expecting it to be.

2. I have absolutley no idea why they call for the muffler to be removed the way they do. I did not even have to touch the muffler. If I had put the harness in at the same time as the hitch, the muffler would have been dropped down already, but there is absolutely no need to unbolt it as the Mitsubishi instructions call for.



All the parts accounted for.


I had to drop the spare tire to get all the bolts started. The spare went back in OK, but it is kinda wedged in there a little.


The tailgate just clears!






I went with a simple rubber cover that just plugs in and has a band holding it to the hitch so you don't lose it.




I used the Mitsubishi fixture that holds the plug end in place designed for their hitch. I just drilled two holes through the bottom of my hitch put some sealant in/around the holes to prevent rusting and screwed it in place.


And the final result

 

Nicely done and great tip on removing the exhaust hangers.