Car is at dealer right now for calibration....got a call from the dealer that there is a"fuse issue" with the ABS....tech cant calibrate the steering angle?? They couldn't tell me the "fuse" or the code, but they are looking into it... don't know if the tech initialized first then calibrated- service manager seems lost.? any help??

 

It is strange that the dealership does not know the DTC (I very much doubt). Without knowing what the actual problem is no one can provide any responsible help or suggestion. Checking fuses or relays must be an easy task.
It is likely that the calibration either failed at step 17 or the DTC C2205 (Internal malfunction of steering wheel sensor) was set and the tech was unable to clear it. Go to section 35C-184 in the repair manual for details.
I am also getting my information from there. The manual is available for download from this very forum (from one of the sticky threads at the top of the list of threads).

 

Thank you. I called them out initially on being exceptionally vague in stating "a fuse was bad somewhere".... it turns out the steering angle sensor was not lined up properly with the clock spring and the tech could not initialize it. It took him 4 hours of time to be able to locate the issue... I was lucky and got billed for only 1 hour, which I mentioned to them seemed an appropriate amount of time in the first place.

 

Hi 07xlsguy and AWCAWD. I also have an 07 XLS, and the audio buttons and Bluetooth phone buttons have been 'off' for awhile. I press the volume up button and the volume goes down, press the volume down and the Bluetooth phone is activated. Now the Bluetooth buttons do not work at all. I'm guessing this is related to the clock spring, but please let me know what you think. Replacing the clock spring seems like somewhat of a simple DIY (I've replaced a number of combination switches on steering columns), but this thread has me concerned. Do you think the issue with the ASC was due to putting the new clock spring in with the steering wheel turned? Do you think if the clock spring was installed without moving the steering wheel from center, would the ASC problem occur? Just trying to avoid a trip to the dealer. And did you get the clock spring from ebay (the $10-$12 version) or from a Mitsubishi part website?

 

Hi. Yes, I would be nearly certain that your issue is with the clock spring. Mine started doing it years ago with what I assumed was a malfunctioning Bluetooth system. It progressed to where none of the buttons on the left side of the steering wheel would work at all but oddly enough the Bluetooth buttons would work. I cannot tell you for sure if keeping the steering wheel perfectly straight would preclude having to do a steering angle reset. The steering angle sensor sits right below the clock spring and are two different parts. When I first installed the clockspring I mistakenly thought the steering angle sensor was part of the clock spring assembly. It seems to me that it's very likely that no matter how you put the clock spring in as far as its position is concerned, you're probably going to have to have the steering angle sensor reset to calibrate with the new clock spring. I bought my clock spring directly from an online Mitsubishi Parts Source. About 50 bucks. You can certainly save yourself a lot of time and money by replacing the clock spring while keeping the steering wheel in its original position and giving it a try. You'll know of it needs a reset because the traction control system will come on when you hit about 40 miles an hour. You can simply press the traction control button and turn it off temporarily. If need be then take it to the dealer for the recalibration. Would fall under their minimum required labor time, be it half hour or hour.

 

I can only refer you to the pages from the manual I posted. Calibration after clockspring replacement is needed. I am unable to comment on the potential influence on the steering wheel control. Since you have replaced some of the steering wheel control switches I would go and check if the wiring is correct. For comparison, I have side view mirrors from Outlander and Outlander Sport/RVR/ASX ( see post #12 here ) and the electrical connections and wiring harnesses are not identical despite they look identical. One needs to check each wire before connecting. On the example of the mirrors I have learned that sometimes even the color codes for the wires can be different.Check the wires for continuity while pushing the corresponding button on the switch. I have similar experience with paddle shifters (the color code for Outlander and Outlander Sport are different) I can imagine that can be true for steering wheel control switches.

 

 

I just wanted to let people know that I tried this procedure last night on a 2008 Mitsubishi Outlander XLS, and all went well. I did not have to take it to the dealership or do any recalibration.

Before the procedure, my bluetooth and audio buttons did not work, unless the wheel was turned literally all the way to one side. The cruise control and horn were fine.

I followed the procedure posted above in the PDF. Here's a little written explanation on what I did:

1. Make sure your steering wheel is completely straight. I was very precise about this and took my time.
2. Disconnect negative battery terminal
3. Pry off plastic cover from bottom of steering wheel.
4. Try to disconnect the three connectors.
----4a. The big green one, the outside sheath slides backwards to release it. You can check it out on your new part to see what I mean. Simply slide the sheath all the way back and continue pulling and it'll come out.
----4b. The tiny horn connector I couldn't get out, because the clip is on the back. I had to come back to this one.
5. Unscrew the T30 torx screws from the side of the steering wheel. You'll have to put your screw driver through the paddle shifter holes if you have paddle shifters.
----5a. At this point you can gently lift the air bag out. It does not require much force to remove. If you weren't able to unhook the horn connector before, you should be able to carefully unplug it as you lift out the airbag. I found that the torx screws weren't unscrewing all the way unless I gently pried up on the airbag while unscrewing each side until I felt the bag release from the screws.
----5b. Set the airbag aside, pointed upward, so it doesn't launch itself at 100mph if it goes off.
6. Remove the nut on the steering wheel. I used a breaker bar and a 17mm socket with an extension. Make sure to grip the steering wheel so everything stays in alignment.
----6a. The steering wheel should slide straight off. I did not need to apply almost any force, and I did not need any type of puller.
----6b. At this point the clock spring can spin freely. I made sure to keep it aligned to its original orientation. I have no idea if this is needed.

This next part might only be needed if you have paddle shifters. Not sure, you'll have to see if you can do it with the plastic pieces on if you don't have paddle shifters:

7. Pry the little piece of plastic above the ignition off. It pries off from the side closest to you.
8. Take the upper piece of plastic off. I just had to pull up on it, but it was a bit of a pain and didn't want to release easily. You may have to release the steering column up-down adjustment lever at the bottom of the column to get it to slide out easily.
9. There are two phillips head screws on the bottom of the steering column that attach the bottom piece of plastic. Unscrew these and then slide that piece of plastic off. It's a bit of a pain to get it off the ignition, and once again, you may have to adjust the up-down position of the steering column.
10. At this point you can remove the paddle shifters.
----10a. There are 2x phillips head screws at the top and 2x 10mm bolts at the bottom. Do not remove any of the torx screws.
----10b. Disconnect the connector that attaches the paddle shifters.
----10c. The paddle shifters slide off easily and no force is needed.
11. Remove the clock spring.
----11a. Look under the steering area and disconnect the two connectors that connect the clock spring. One has a clip the needs to be detached first.
----11b. Unscrew the two phillips screws that hold the clock spring in.
----11c. Use a flat head screw driver to press down on the top plastic clip holding in the clock spring. The top of the clock spring should loosen easily.
----11d. Look under the bottom, behind one of the connectors to see the last plastic clip. This can be pushed down again with a flat head, and the clock spring should come out very easily.

At this point put the new one in, and did everything in reverse. The new clock spring comes centered already, and has a plastic clip keeping it centered. I left the plastic clip in until I needed to remove it to get the steering wheel back on.

The part I got was this one:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3286...20e540ea9COG8X
The description is: High Quality New 8619-A018 8619A018 For Mitsubishi Pajero Lancer EX Eclipse 2006-2012

Note this is the one for the 2008 Outlander XLS, but I did see others that said they were compatible with the 2008 Outlander with less pins on the connectors, so be careful. You can double check what your clock spring plugs look like by doing just step 3 and looking at them.

Hope this helps someone!