can this be done! straight swap the factory 10" sub with aftermarket 10" subwoofer .
#1
can this be done! straight swap the factory 10" sub with aftermarket 10" subwoofer .
Hello. I need some input in this matter. I own a 2013 Mitsubishi RVR and this is what I would like to do the factory sound system. I want to straight swap my factory 10" Rockford fosgate subwoofer to 10" W7 subwoofer. Can this be done and also can the amp also be swapped and does any one know where the factory amp is located for the 2013 Mitsubishi rvr. I don't want to cut no wires or add anything else that would make this very complicated . Is it possible. thanks for any input in advance.
#2
Hello. I need some input in this matter. I own a 2013 Mitsubishi RVR and this is what I would like to do the factory sound system. I want to straight swap my factory 10" Rockford fosgate subwoofer to 10" W7 subwoofer. Can this be done and also can the amp also be swapped and does any one know where the factory amp is located for the 2013 Mitsubishi rvr. I don't want to cut no wires or add anything else that would make this very complicated . Is it possible. thanks for any input in advance.
There is a member on here that is an audio "nut" and has done a lot of work to his sound system, I'll see if I can stumble across his info.
#3
Hmmm... I can't seem to find the specific info I was thinking of, but so far I've found this:
https://mitsubishiforum.com/forum/mi...-system-40398/
and this video:
So, IDK, I might be mistaken, but that quote definitely gives me a hint that I might not be completely wrong.
EDIT: BOOM! Got it: https://mitsubishiforum.com/forum/mi...bwoofer-39974/
So here's a little info to be saved for posterity.
As per RF, the enclosure volume for the stock sub is about 0.7cuft, so not exactly huge. They claimed that all of the factory speakers are 2 ohms, but that's not really anything I care about as I'll be replacing them.
The woofer itself appears to be based off the old Punch Z. It was rated for 150W RMS, again, not exactly a lot. The OEM sub is a DVC version of this, with dual 1.1 Ohm coils that can take 75W RMS each. It's weird.
Anyways, dimensions wise there's not much to work with. This sub has a mounting depth of around 5" (actually a little less), the Punch Z says 4.75" mounting depth. The entire section itself is a little less than 11" in diameter, with the mounting holes being almost exactly 10" apart from each other.
I put some Polyfill in the factory box, seems to have helped some. Going to try reinforcing it some when it comes time to upgrade the sub itself. ABS isn't exactly the strongest stuff. If I were going to do it right I'd fiberglass it some, but I think I'm going to take the lazy approach and use some foil backed deadener to stiffen the walls some.
Oh, and one more thing, the grill that covers the sub and keeps it from getting damaged? Yeah that's actually attached to the sub mounting flange.
As per RF, the enclosure volume for the stock sub is about 0.7cuft, so not exactly huge. They claimed that all of the factory speakers are 2 ohms, but that's not really anything I care about as I'll be replacing them.
The woofer itself appears to be based off the old Punch Z. It was rated for 150W RMS, again, not exactly a lot. The OEM sub is a DVC version of this, with dual 1.1 Ohm coils that can take 75W RMS each. It's weird.
Anyways, dimensions wise there's not much to work with. This sub has a mounting depth of around 5" (actually a little less), the Punch Z says 4.75" mounting depth. The entire section itself is a little less than 11" in diameter, with the mounting holes being almost exactly 10" apart from each other.
I put some Polyfill in the factory box, seems to have helped some. Going to try reinforcing it some when it comes time to upgrade the sub itself. ABS isn't exactly the strongest stuff. If I were going to do it right I'd fiberglass it some, but I think I'm going to take the lazy approach and use some foil backed deadener to stiffen the walls some.
Oh, and one more thing, the grill that covers the sub and keeps it from getting damaged? Yeah that's actually attached to the sub mounting flange.
and this video:
So, IDK, I might be mistaken, but that quote definitely gives me a hint that I might not be completely wrong.
EDIT: BOOM! Got it: https://mitsubishiforum.com/forum/mi...bwoofer-39974/
Last edited by Burtonrider10022; 08-09-2013 at 01:52 AM.
#6
Did you see the last link in my long post? after posting all of that I found the thread I was looking for and it has the info about the ohms in it.
I understand you're not trying to accomplish the same goal, but if the sub is different, the input source from the amp might be different as well.
To add the Rockford Fosgate system to your Outlander can be a little tricky. The subwoofer itself isn't a normal subwoofer. I beleive it's a dual 1 Ohm voice coil sub and it's specifically designed to work with the premium upgrade amplifier that mounts under the passenger seat. Another thing that's going to cause some issues is that the factory source unit you currently have has a roll-off right around 60Hz and down. That's to keep the stock speakers from blowing. I see this in a lot of standard OEM systems. But the upgraded Rockford Fosgate Outie system has a DSP function that brings back the lower frequencies to get that boom.
From what I have been told the door speakers are all completely different on the RF premium upgraded system as well. So it's not just a change to the tweeter bezzel like you noticed.
I'm thinking that if you want a system similar to the OEM upgraded package, then you might want to consider aftermarket product.......To get the lower frequencies back, you might want to look at the Audio Control Epicenter. As far as amps go, consider the new Rockford Fosgate PBR300X1 for the woofer(s) and a Rockford Fosgate PBR300X4 for the high end. Both of these amps will tuck away nicely under either the driver or passenger seat. For the woofer, don't know if you'll be able to find the OEM 10" woofer enclosure, but if you do, then I'd suggest a shallow 10" woofer to drop in there. Otherwise, just go with a whole new enclosure made out of MDF with a couple 10's or 12's. It just won't look the same as the RF enclsoure mounted on the driver's side, but it will sound better.
Just my thoughts......
From what I have been told the door speakers are all completely different on the RF premium upgraded system as well. So it's not just a change to the tweeter bezzel like you noticed.
I'm thinking that if you want a system similar to the OEM upgraded package, then you might want to consider aftermarket product.......To get the lower frequencies back, you might want to look at the Audio Control Epicenter. As far as amps go, consider the new Rockford Fosgate PBR300X1 for the woofer(s) and a Rockford Fosgate PBR300X4 for the high end. Both of these amps will tuck away nicely under either the driver or passenger seat. For the woofer, don't know if you'll be able to find the OEM 10" woofer enclosure, but if you do, then I'd suggest a shallow 10" woofer to drop in there. Otherwise, just go with a whole new enclosure made out of MDF with a couple 10's or 12's. It just won't look the same as the RF enclsoure mounted on the driver's side, but it will sound better.
Just my thoughts......
I understand you're not trying to accomplish the same goal, but if the sub is different, the input source from the amp might be different as well.
#7
Hmm.......forgot I posted that some time ago. Don't think a JL W7 woofer would fit in the OEM enclosure because of the 8" of mounting depth needed. Plus the W7 10" woofer needs a minimum of 1.25 cu ft for a sealed enclosure from what I read on their site.
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