HID Conversion DONE! (Pics and info)
 

I bought an aftermarket HID conversion kit for 9006 Low Beam replacement. Cost $100 Canadian. I also bought a Relay Harness to resolve the DRL problem on Canadian Cars. Cost $30. Our DRL is done by sending 9 Volts to the Low Beam headlamp. The relay harness should have taken care of this but I had to add one little modification (a capacitor) to make it work. The reason is that the relay will not fire properly causing the HID lamps to flicker when DRL is running.


Attachment 7835



Before Pics, Instructions and After pics below. The result is spectacular! I chose 6000K bulbs. I don't recommend higher to get bluer light, you lose light output.

Before:
Attachment 7836

Bulb Removed from Passenger headlamp assembly. Insert your HID lights into the headlamp assemblies. You can loosen the two screws on the retainer if the fit is too tight.
Attachment 7837

Relay Harness with modification.
Attachment 7838

Relay removed showing modification. You must solder a Capacitor in parallel with the coil that activates the relay. If you do not, the relay will click on and off rapidly and this will pulse your HID ballasts and bulbs... BAD. I used a 16V 2500mf capacitor. I wouldn't use anything less. I would actually recommend a 25V capacitor and 2500mf and above.

The relay in the harness is an automotive 12V relay. Typically, the coil is on Pins 85 and 86. You wire the capacitor's positive lead to the the positive post of the relay (usually pin 86), the negative lead to negative post (usually pin 85). I also used a little shrink wrap on the wiring:
Attachment 7839

Relay back in harness with tie wrap to hold it in solid:
Attachment 7840
Harness with large shrink wrap to protect the relay and capacitor:
Attachment 7841

On to the installunder the hood. I tie wrapped the relay harness to the metal bracket that holds an electronic box (black plastic) just behind the drivers headlamp assembly. You will have to remove the bracket to get at the lamp anyway:
Attachment 7842

The trigger wire for the relay plugs to the driver side headlamp wiring. Make sure you plug positive to positive, negative to negative. There is no danger but if things don't work, reverse this plug. Use tie wrap to secure the two together:
Attachment 7843

The +12V power that will power your HID ballasts comes from the battery:
Attachment 7844

Replace the bracket and electronic box with the relay harness that you tie wrapped to the backside. Use the 10mm screw that holds that bracket down as your grounding point for the relay harness:
Attachment 7845

Ensure that you tape off (weather proof) the passenger side headlamp connector. It's not going to be used anymore so tie wrap it to something. The relay harness supplies two lines for bothballasts. The 12V is drawn directly from the battery:
Attachment 7846

The ballasts fit really nicely below the lip of the fender on both sides. Conveniently, there are holes you can use to secure the ballasts bracket assembly with a nut and bolt on one side and a tie wrap on the other side:
Attachment 7847
Attachment 7848
Attachment 7849

Connect the ballasts to the bulbs that you have already inserted into the headlamp assemblies. Connect the two power lines coming from the relay harness to each ballast. The drivers side ballast power lead is quite short, the passenger side is quite long. I routed the line going to the passenger side in front of the battery, following above the radiator and then to the passenger side. There are many points to secure your wiring with tie wraps along the way. Clean up your install with tie wraps anywhere necessary.

And finally, the finished product!! I tested on the road, and it was absolutely not necessary to readjust the beam heights, they're perfect. Light output is incredible, 3X that of the stock halogens. Stick with 6000K bulbs, anything higher is just silly. I may eventually do the fogs as well, although I like the effect of the two different light temperatures, makes the HID stand out even more.


Attachment 7850

RE: HID Conversion DONE! (Pics and info)
 

Nice job dekodan !

RE: HID Conversion DONE! (Pics and info)
 

Looks really good, nice write up.

RE: HID Conversion DONE! (Pics and info)
 

aww nice! hey, you have to mod the relay?

Also can you show me where which slot you put the relay in the fuse box?

RE: HID Conversion DONE! (Pics and info)
 

Thanks to you and all who have sent compliments on the conversion!

In Canada, when you start your engine and lower your hand brake, the DRL come on. This is done by sending lower voltage to your low beam lights giving them a half-intensity look. The relay harness is supposed to deal with this by detecting the power coming to the headlamp power supply lead and triggering the automotive relay that passes a full 12V from the battery to the ballasts. However, without the capacitor in parallel, the relay clicks on and off rapidly and flickers your ballasts and bulbs. You definitely don't want this as the ballasts and bulbs won't take that stress. The lower voltage is not the real culprit. The DRL signal is not a constant 9VDCbut rather a sinsusoidal waveform peaking at 12VDC and a frequency of about 60Hz (this is better for the bulb longevity than running them at 9V). This is great for your stock 9006 bulbs but not the coil of the relay. The capacitor smooths this out and allows the relay to trigger properly.

To be clear, when my DRL are running now, I have full intensity in my HID low beams now. There is no more half intensity. So, in essence, my HID run all the time, but they will never flicker.

The relay isnot installed in the fuse box. I bought theDRL relay harness ($30) from the company that sold me the HID kit. The harness is shown in many of the pictures in my post above. It consists of an automotive relay, 3 fuses (1 protecting the 12V coming in, 1 for each ballast), a trigger wire that connects to your drivers side headlamp power supply lead, 2 wires going to the ballasts, 1 12V power supply lead connected to the battery and 1 ground wire that you attach to the chassis. The capacitor that I added is connected in parallel to the coil on pins 85 and 86 of the relay. I soldered it in place and replaced the relay back into the harness connector.

Dan

RE: HID Conversion DONE! (Pics and info)
 

Beautiful, I was waiting for this to be done, and not for $2000 like some guys did.


A coule things I still need Dek, being as I'm not electrically inclined or savvy whatssoever. I don't want to begin to attempt this project then get stuck along the way...you did a great job alreadywith the step by step.

If you could,

1. List all parts + price
2. Tools you used
3. extra parts (some shrink wrap, ties)
4. Total time and whre you got the kit? I know some kits are good and some are terrible, looks like you got lucky for $100...

RE: HID Conversion DONE! (Pics and info)
 

Wow, hope I won't be driving towards you in oncoming traffic. You'll be blinding other drivers with the glare. Installing hid's in non-projector housings is not advisable.

Want to know more, see here:

http://www.intellexual.net/hid.html

RE: HID Conversion DONE! (Pics and info)
 

Well the OEM HID's are not in projector housings, they are in reflector ones as well. Tons of cars have oem hid setups that dont have projector housings. Yes the reflector ones and the hid bulbs that are used are designed to make sure light is not scattered all over the place though...

One question dekodan, when parked against a wall (about 10 feet away) what does the light pattern look like?
This is what the OEM HID pattern look like. Has a pretty good cut off.
https://mitsubishiforum.com/upfiles/...9EC319EA89.jpg

PS: GOOD JOB on your mod!

RE: HID Conversion DONE! (Pics and info)
 

Since the reflectors are almost identical on the OEM HID headlamps and the non-HID headlapsfrom Mitsubishi, I did not expect much difference in the beam pattern. As you can see in the comparison below, there is not much difference. I am very pleased with the result and I am not blinding any oncoming traffic as there is not much bleed. The picture on the left is my Outlander, the picture on the right is tdford's. It's a slightly cleaner cutoff on the OEM, but not by much. :)

http://i439.photobucket.com/albums/q...de-compare.jpg

RE: HID Conversion DONE! (Pics and info)
 

Parts:
[ol][*]HID Kit $100 (6000K bulbs, don't go higher, digital ballasts)[*]DRL Relay harness $30[*]Shrink wrap and tie wraps ($5)[*]Capacitor : Electrolytic, Polarizedat Radio Shack or local electronics/stereo store 25V (or higher) and 2000uF (or higher) ($2) [/ol]
Tools used:
[ol][*]Philips screw driver[*]10mm ratchet[*]cutters[*]soldering iron (to attach capacitor)[/ol]

Time to install and where to purchase:

2 hours

Kit purchased from local seller in Ottawa. http://www.extremelightz.com

RE: HID Conversion DONE! (Pics and info)
 

In Europe, Mitsu is selling Outies with Xenon on both lights. The problem caused to other drivers may occur when using lights over 4500k, which turns to purple. Even the light is stronger, the eye is not in fact sensitive to that spectrum so the effect is to blind the others instead of having a good illumination on road.

RE: HID Conversion DONE! (Pics and info)
 

Well to bad, Mitsu should have offered HID lighting in2007 2009 models here in Canada, don't know why they didn't.


Stick this DIY?

RE: HID Conversion DONE! (Pics and info)
 

Would have been nice, but Mitsubishi decided to offer what I consider the best crossover for the price. I think they struck the right balance of price and offering. I suppose it could be a dealer installed option but I suspect it would not be purchased by most in this market segment.

Sticky this DIY would begreat! How does one do that?

RE: HID Conversion DONE! (Pics and info)
 

Ya the light pattern doenst look to bad dekodan. I mean atleast light isnt being scattered all over the place. I bet the performance is great compared to the stock halogens.

I swapped my oem 4300k bulbs to a cheap ebay 6000k. It did provide the color I wanted, but since our eyes see less light at the higher temperatures I could noticely say that they provided LESS light than the stock ones. BUT, I did not go with a high quality bulb ($$) either. After one year of use I switched back to the original Phillips 4300k ones and I was like, holy cow my 6000k sucked! The 6000k ones had faded actually and had gotten worse over time. So the best they looked was the day I put them in.

For me a good quality 5000k bulb is what I will be looking forin the future. Good color and not sacraficing to much performance. But brand DOES make a difference. So whatever bulb temperature you decide on, remember that you get what you pay for. So if its a cheap bulb, dont expect much.... for very long ;).

dekodan, who is the maker of the bulb? not the kit

RE: HID Conversion DONE! (Pics and info)
 

WOW congrat on the new mod

RE: HID Conversion DONE! (Pics and info)
 

The bulb brand is basically no-name from China, so I don't expect long-term miracles. I guess time will tell :-)

Dan

RE: HID Conversion DONE! (Pics and info)
 

Hey great job!!!! I am about to install mine this week I am just waiting for my wire relay harness. Did you have problems with the polarity for the bulb harness? I tried mine without the wire harness, but used some kind of resistors that my kit came with and it did not light up at all! No flickering what so ever. I did read some where that some car manufacturers reverse the polarity on the oem wire harness for the bulbs. I know I hooked up everything correctly but no light :( Will try to install the lights this Thursday when the temperature rises below-30. Also, did you get some kind of warning in your dash saying that you have a burnt bulb?

RE: HID Conversion DONE! (Pics and info)
 

The polarity is important, but if it doesn't work one way, flip it the other; it's that simple. Besides, the wiring harness to the lamps have a red and black wire. Red is positive. Of course, you can use a tester as well. As for resistors that came with your kit, I cannot see why you would need them with the Outlander. These are usually used to simulate a filament so that you don't get a warning light on the dash that a bulb is burned out. The Outlander does not have this feature.

You should have a plug and play installation once you have your relay wiring harness. However, if you have DRL on your low-beams, you will need to do the capacitor modification that I mentioned in my post.

Good luck!

Dan

RE: HID Conversion DONE! (Pics and info)
 

Hey thanks for the info... One more thing! About the capacitor, I see that you have to plug to the battery harness. Did the female plug come with your harness or do you also have to make that one also? You mentioned just flip the connection, doesn't the oem harness connector have a clip and you could only insert it one way?( sorry still learning about the install)

RE: HID Conversion DONE! (Pics and info)
 

There is a female connector on the harness for the relay. That comes with the harness. In fact the easiest way to describe things is that you get everything you need in an HID kit and DRL harness, you just need to add the capacitor.

About flipping the connection, the oem harness that goes to the lamp has a clip but the trigger line that comes from the relay harness can be plugged in either direction, it does not really have a mating clip, hence why I used tie wrap to secure the two together once the correct polarity was found. With vibration, they would come apart without the tie wrap.

RE: HID Conversion DONE! (Pics and info)
 

I opted to install after market HID's into my fogs instead. This did not require any relays or such. The fogs are on a different circuit and do not flicker. Since they are in the fogs, they do not blind oncoming drivers

RE: HID Conversion DONE! (Pics and info)
 

As blinding other drivers has been a comment from a few people on the board, I just want to clarify for everyone that the Outlander low beam reflectors are well made. They already had HID in mind since it's available on the XLS in the USA.

I posted pictures of the cut-off line against my garage door. As you can see, the light is pretty clean with barely any scatter.

I asked a friend how my lights looked liek sitting in his car facing me and moving towards me.It's bright of course, it's HID, like any car with HID (projector style or not). But it is not blinding or at least not any different from stock HID on a BMW, Lexus, etc...

I know some conversions are blinding because the reflectors were not designed for HID. This is not the case on the Outlander.

RE: HID Conversion DONE! (Pics and info)
 

Thanks Dekodan! Great work and information!

The Outlander HID Conversion Bashers should learn their facts about MitsubishiOEM installed HIDs using the same reflector design before posting any criticism.
Did anyone also mention that HIDs draw nearly 1/3 less power to run over halogen bulbs and can last for 3000/3500 hours?

Happy Holidays!

RE: HID Conversion DONE! (Pics and info)
 

Im not bashing it, But the big difference is the factory installed HID's are supposed to be auto-leveling as stated in the documentation. So yes, while on a garage it may look like they are breaking at the same point, while driving this is not true. Personally I am not bothered by aftermarket HID's. When i am less lazy I may perform a similar mod as you, but with a relay so I dont have to have them on all the time. Its just important to note as to not mislead people that there is infact a difference.

RE: HID Conversion DONE! (Pics and info)
 

The HIDs on my 07 XLS are in fact auto-levelling. I guess this makes a difference on the aim level even just considering the amount of fuel you have. Moreso if you have full seating capacity with load on the back. But I guess this is no different than having halogens since its not auto-levelling too. Just that that HIDs are way brighter than halogens.

I have totally no regrets having paid extra for these (HIDs together with the leather and MMCS and other toys). Just sucks when it's not offered in your market, just like the RDS and TMC reception for MMCS not being offered in the US.

RE: HID Conversion DONE! (Pics and info)
 

Thanks, point taken...

The issue would be the lack of an auto-leveling function versus the reflector design when installing aftermarket HIDs in the 2007+ Outlander. Is the auto-leveling feature a legal requirement?

If already installing a new relay harness with the aftermarket HIDs.Wouldn't an in-line cut-off switchconnected before the relay work to switch off the HIDs if you didn't want them on as a DRL? Maybe installing this switch in the interior, on the lower left side of the dashboard?

I didn't name anyone in my previous posting. It's just that I don't like to see good work or morale get tarnished by criticism.

Take care.

RE: HID Conversion DONE! (Pics and info)
 

Well the OEM reflectors with HID are going to be a little different than the ones that are made for halogen bulbs. Not alot, but deffinitley different.

The auto-leveling feature on OEM HID is a little misunderstood though. It is RARELY activated. The only time it comes into play is when you have a lot of weight in the back, or when you are towing. When going up a steep hill I dont notice them being leveled out and I am always blinding people. I think the vehicle has to be in that position for a while before they are leveled (ex. like driving down the highway towing something).

But anway, the cut-off line on the beam pattern is what is really important. Because if light is being scattered all over the place, that is when you are blinding people. With a nice cut-off the light is concentrated onto the road where it is suppose to be.

dekodan has shown with his pics that the halogen reflectors when mated with a aftermarket HID kit proves that the cut-off line is acceptable. I've seen some old honda civics with aftermarket kits, and they are terrible!

PS: my old car had projector housings with halogen bulbs (a very nice cut-off line) no HID. And when coming over a hill or even being higher down the road than oncoming traffic, I would ALWAYS get flashed.

RE: HID Conversion DONE! (Pics and info)
 

There are evident differences in the design of the lenses between OEM units HID vs halogen, so the patterns that project are totally different. About the autolevelling system, in my experience, the OEM HID can operate without him, and in my case, the autolevelling system makes adjustments when my Out is in slope. . .

Attachment 7823

One question dekodan, what type of HID bulb used in this modification?

RE: HID Conversion DONE! (Pics and info)
 

I believe they are D2S bulbs.

RE: HID Conversion DONE! (Pics and info)
 

Thank's dekodan. One more commentary: the correct type of HID bulb for the type of optical in our Outlander (low beam) is D2R (reflector type); D2S is for optical projector type, data to consider for those want makes this modification [sm=smiley20.gif]

RE: HID Conversion DONE! (Pics and info)
 

Double checked... They are D2R

RE: HID Conversion DONE! (Pics and info)
 

Perfect ! Again, great job dekodan [sm=smiley20.gif]

RE: HID Conversion DONE! (Pics and info)
 

Yes the OEM HID bulbs are D2R, which are designed for reflector housings. And yes D2S are for projector housings. You can tell from the pic that the design of the bulb has a precise metalic coating on the side. This is not on D2S bulbs, so I can say with confidence that the coating helps with the cutoff for reflector housings.

https://mitsubishiforum.com/upfiles/...D71EB67A63.jpg

and jsrd, great pic of the comparison of the HID and Halogen housings. I knew there was a difference, but I never had the chance to see them side-by-side. GREAT!

RE: HID Conversion DONE! (Pics and info)
 

Attachment 7820

Thank's for your commentaries. . .

RE: HID Conversion DONE! (Pics and info)
 

Forgive the ignorance but I thought our bulb were 9006? I'm about to order a HID kit but I'd like to make sure...
Thanks!

RE: HID Conversion DONE! (Pics and info)
 

We were talking about the stock OEM HID bulbs, which are D2R. If you have halogen bulbs and are doing the swap, then yes you need 9006.

RE: HID Conversion DONE! (Pics and info)
 

Thanks!

RE: HID Conversion DONE! (Pics and info)
 

What do you guys think of these?

http://www.hidexpert.com/p9006_rebased_bulbs.html

RE: HID Conversion DONE! (Pics and info)
 

WOW, there's alot of info on this thread......Thanks Guys and GREAT JOB on the install dekodan [sm=icon_cheers.gif]

RE: HID Conversion DONE! (Pics and info)
 

Where else can you buy the capacitors? I am in Edmonton, Canada. I went to Circuit city today and they had nothing.