please IM if you have questions, my ebay ID is hidkits74. Try making one and sell it for $22, some other people sell it for over $60 I think $42 is ok. you will like the quality.

 

Let me know if you have other questions, glad you like the harness, ebay ID hidkits74

 

Here's the pics...as labeled the first one is just the park lights with engine running and the rest are the hid's on at idle. Apologies for pic quality.

So yes, headlights are off when switch is off--only park lights are on at first click of the switch and next is full on with the hid's. No headlights at all when driving during the day.

Well, let's put it this way: I like tinkering with cars too but sometimes I just don't want the hassle of a trial and error thing to kill the drl's. This way the job gets done without getting too much in the way of our daily chores. So $42 for that I think is ok.

At least we don't have to slave over making the harness and I'm sure the time it would take us to make this in terms of what we make per hour in the 9-5 scheme of things would even out.

 

I have 3 more Harness for sale 2 days left on sale for $36 with Free shipping 2-3 days shipping, sorry if you paid more before, just need to get rid of the 3 I have left. Look me up on ebay, hidkits74.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=130395807899

 

I didnt mean to sound like a bitter old man. But, isn't the whole point of this thread/forum is to find the solution for the issue and share it with enthusiast's like us? Isnt that the whole concept of this forum?

I guess thats just me...

 

The harness isn't for everybody. I want DRLs, just not flickering HID lights. I know the ECU has an option for fog light DRLs, but I would rather run the high beams at low power instead.

 

This will help you to keep DRLs and turn HIDs only when you need them:

https://mitsubishiforum.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=36263

 

Do not do this mod to the harness, it will melt the wires and surrounding plug!

 

No, it will not. You should try to understand how it is actually done, before speculating that it will burn everything :-). Here is the explanation:
1. Low beam/DLR wiring is used to control only parking lights that use tiny bulbs and require much less power/amps than original low beams.
2. Parking light wiring is only used to CONTROL standard HID RELAY, so minimum amps is required for that(less than original parking bulbs). Also, since parking light circuit produces fixed 12V when turned on, you do NOT need any capacitor that may overheat.
3. HID relay harness is connected directly to battery and has its own fuse to protect HID ballasts/bulbs/wires.

 

OK. I've now been running the DRL bypass for a few months now and I have had no issues whatsoever with the drl bypass kit.

HIDKITS provided me with a good solution for my needs. I hope this helps those considering this option as a possible long term solution to disabling the drl's.