Ok, here is the story. So I researched many postings and I was not able to achieve this:

1. Be able to turn HID low beam only when needed. HID bulbs have limited lifetime and quite expensive.

2. Be able to keep some sort of Daytime Running Lights, since I'm in Canada.

3. Avoid any factory wire cutting/tapping. Avoid use of capacitor which produces inconsistent results and heat.


I paid 60 bucks for install, but I did not like the result. I decided to see what I can do myself about it...

What you need: 9006 HID conversion kit ~100$, Standard relay harness ~10$.

Basically you do normal installation with relay harness, but you need to switch Low beam and Parking light wires. If you do so, your front parking ligts will work as DRL and once you turn on Parking/Low beam, your HIDs will be on!

Steps:

1. Follow the steps described on the thread below, but DO NOT install capacitor, you won't need it.
https://mitsubishiforum.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=30486

2. Disconnect large connectors going to head light assembly on both passenger's and driver's sides. (see connector.jpg - notice that I took this picture after I already switched the wires!!!)

3. Slide the "mother side" forward to remove from the head light assembly (see inside.jpg)

4. Pull the orange pin separator/holder out of connector (see removed.jpg)

5. Now you can easily switch the RED (low beam) and the BLUE(parking light) wires. Just use small screwdriver to release the pins from inside and pull them back. Switch their places, push them back into the connector and put orange holder back.

6. Connect large connectors back together. Voila! You can turn/on your low beam HID lights and have your DRL on.

Enjoy! )

 

Do NOT do this mod, you will melt the wiring harnesses!

 

No it wont, as all the connectors going into any light are protected by a fuse...which will blow way before anything is able to melt. Perhaps if you bridge the fuses in your fuse box or use direct battery power without an extra fuse, you may be able to do some damage. However, if this is done properly, it will work as the OP described.

 

No, it will not burn anything - it is actually safer when using capacitor install that tries to flatten DRL power to 12V... You should try to understand how it is actually done, before speculating that it will burn everything :-). Here is the explanation:
1. Low beam/DRL wiring is used to control only parking lights that use tiny bulbs and require much less power/amps than original low beams.
2. Parking light wiring is only used to CONTROL standard HID RELAY, so minimum amps is required for that(less than original parking bulbs). Also, since parking light circuit produces fixed 12V when turned on, you do NOT need any capacitor that may overheat.
3. HID relay harness is connected directly to battery and has its own fuse to protect HID ballasts/bulbs/wires.

 

Do you still need to get the relay kit?

 

Yes, you do need the relay kit to avoid overloading parking light wiring. However, you do NOT need a capacitor - parking light wiring produces steady 12V which is perfect to turn the relay on and off.

 

hey great write up...plan on doin hids in the future...so i swapped blue and red/white wires on my 2010 outlander...passenger side worked without a problem although on the drivers side...when you turn the headlights on only the passenger side turned on but not the drivers...turned car off and on then tried again, both headlights turned on...again turned car off and on, now drivers side again wouldnt turn on...tried putting a 15 amp fuse rather than 10 amp, that didn't work...ended up having to swap back wires to stock....what are your thoughts? thanks in advance

 

That sounds like a ballast issue. If you are using a relay kit, only one of the old headlight connectors is used to activate the relay harness which sends power to the ballasts. That means both would either turn on or not...one can't be activated without the other.

 

no hids...problem is occuring with just halogen bulbs

 

Sorry, why would you want to do this for stock halogen bulbs? Doing so will put extra load (low beam) on parking light circuit, I would avoid it! The main idea was to use HID WITH relay harness, so load to parking light circuit is kept to a minimum. In my install with relay harness, only driver's side connector is used to operate HIDs. The passenger side connector is isolated and not used at all.