HID Conversion - the RIGHT way with DRL
#11
09-12-2010, 05:37 PM
Sorry, why would you want to do this for stock halogen bulbs? Doing so will put extra load (low beam) on parking light circuit, I would avoid it! The main idea was to use HID WITH relay harness, so load to parking light circuit is kept to a minimum. In my install with relay harness, only driver's side connector is used to operate HIDs. The passenger side connector is isolated and not used at all.
#12
09-12-2010, 05:51 PM
Also, please make sure that once you decide to switch blue/red wires prior to installing hid relay harness, you have to switch blue/red wires on both sides even though relay harness connects to drivers's side only.
#14
09-17-2010, 03:04 PM
In GTA, some dealers refused to install HID, others offered aftermarket units. I don't think OEM is available unless installed by the factory. It involves different fuses/wiring/headlight assembly etc...
#15
09-30-2010, 09:46 AM
Hi
I am looking for a right way to deactivate the DRL so I install the HID Kit on a US 2010 Oulander we just got
Although that would be enough for me to install it, what I would really love is to switch the DRL from Low to Hi beams but I understand that may prove more difficult if at all possible.
Thanks,
Mick
I am looking for a right way to deactivate the DRL so I install the HID Kit on a US 2010 Oulander we just got
Although that would be enough for me to install it, what I would really love is to switch the DRL from Low to Hi beams but I understand that may prove more difficult if at all possible.
Thanks,
Mick
#16
10-06-2010, 11:33 PM
yeeeeee i just did this to my hid on my 08 outlander that i bought with hid instaled from the dealer ... theyre tech and instaler said that they done hundred of them and i have to drive with the light on all the time , so during the day time i could not see anything in my dash and radio they even sold it to me brand new with electrical tape on the light switch as a reminder to not turn off the hid cause they would start to flicker and burn the ballast or bulb. witch append about four time so far...(good tech and dealer) anyway sorry for the long post just venting ..lollll back onto the subject i did this mod this week end and everything work fine just like normal light on and off when needed and i can see my radio and cluster during the day lolll my car is ``alive`` lollllll and now taking it back to the dealer cause a bulb or ballast burnt again 2 week prior to me getting involved with the wirring... anyway thanks a lots and keep up the good work....
#17
10-07-2010, 08:21 PM
Ok, here is the story. So I researched many postings and I was not able to achieve this:
1. Be able to turn HID low beam only when needed. HID bulbs have limited lifetime and quite expensive.
2. Be able to keep some sort of Daytime Running Lights, since I'm in Canada.
3. Avoid any factory wire cutting/tapping. Avoid use of capacitor which produces inconsistent results and heat.
I paid 60 bucks for install, but I did not like the result. I decided to see what I can do myself about it...
What you need: 9006 HID conversion kit ~100$, Standard relay harness ~10$.
Basically you do normal installation with relay harness, but you need to switch Low beam and Parking light wires. If you do so, your front parking ligts will work as DRL and once you turn on Parking/Low beam, your HIDs will be on!
Steps:
1. Follow the steps described on the thread below, but DO NOT install capacitor, you won't need it.
https://mitsubishiforum.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=30486
2. Disconnect large connectors going to head light assembly on both passenger's and driver's sides. (see connector.jpg - notice that I took this picture after I already switched the wires!!!)
3. Slide the "mother side" forward to remove from the head light assembly (see inside.jpg)
4. Pull the orange pin separator/holder out of connector (see removed.jpg)
5. Now you can easily switch the RED (low beam) and the BLUE(parking light) wires. Just use small screwdriver to release the pins from inside and pull them back. Switch their places, push them back into the connector and put orange holder back.
6. Connect large connectors back together. Voila! You can turn/on your low beam HID lights and have your DRL on.
Enjoy! )
1. Be able to turn HID low beam only when needed. HID bulbs have limited lifetime and quite expensive.
2. Be able to keep some sort of Daytime Running Lights, since I'm in Canada.
3. Avoid any factory wire cutting/tapping. Avoid use of capacitor which produces inconsistent results and heat.
I paid 60 bucks for install, but I did not like the result. I decided to see what I can do myself about it...
What you need: 9006 HID conversion kit ~100$, Standard relay harness ~10$.
Basically you do normal installation with relay harness, but you need to switch Low beam and Parking light wires. If you do so, your front parking ligts will work as DRL and once you turn on Parking/Low beam, your HIDs will be on!
Steps:
1. Follow the steps described on the thread below, but DO NOT install capacitor, you won't need it.
https://mitsubishiforum.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=30486
2. Disconnect large connectors going to head light assembly on both passenger's and driver's sides. (see connector.jpg - notice that I took this picture after I already switched the wires!!!)
3. Slide the "mother side" forward to remove from the head light assembly (see inside.jpg)
4. Pull the orange pin separator/holder out of connector (see removed.jpg)
5. Now you can easily switch the RED (low beam) and the BLUE(parking light) wires. Just use small screwdriver to release the pins from inside and pull them back. Switch their places, push them back into the connector and put orange holder back.
6. Connect large connectors back together. Voila! You can turn/on your low beam HID lights and have your DRL on.
Enjoy! )
so all you are essentailly doing is switching the parklight wire with the head lamp wire ?
#18
10-11-2010, 07:29 PM
i dont think you need the relay kit either. Think about it those hid boxes dont pull half the current that a halogen bulb alone pulls. I see the point of switching the wires cause the prk light wire will give you the constant 12v signal you need to turn on and keep on the ballast and igniter box.
#19
10-17-2010, 11:40 PM
i dont think you need the relay kit either. Think about it those hid boxes dont pull half the current that a halogen bulb alone pulls. I see the point of switching the wires cause the prk light wire will give you the constant 12v signal you need to turn on and keep on the ballast and igniter box.
#20
10-17-2010, 11:44 PM
correct. this is needed to provide flat 12V to control HID relay(on/off) and avoid flickering.