That's strange, as there are 3 relays: DRL, headlights (low) and headlights (high) according to the service manual.

 

ivanz, the DRL is the same as the low beam, which means it uses the same line as the low, which means it only has one fuse. And to confirm, I went and opened my fuse box and I was right. There is no fuse on the slot (#13) for the DRL. I think that fuse slot are for those cars that have independent DRL's.


I have yet to go to talk to some of my asian buddies that are hard core modders and tuners and see what they think. I will keep you guys posted...

 

hey

i am totally illiterate on this topic but want to learn how to do this on my '10 Outlander...is this strictly plug and play? and most of the links posted for some products are dead...

 

Has anyone tried the "cancellers" aka "canbus"? Check out TOPHIDKITS.com they have them there for an extra $20 bucks.

Apparently the cancelers/canbus work by cancelling the current if it is not going to get the full voltage that the ballast needs for the hid bulb to dischange.

So, in theory, this should work since the DRL is nothing but just a lower voltage doesnt it? There was a member that posted this on this thread:

"i am new to the board
just picked up last week, and installed HID on day one hahaha
I didnt go thru all these trouble, I just got a "Cambus" ballast, DRL problem solved..."

I will order the kit and this canceller thing and document the install. lets hope this solves our issue.

 

Strange, as both the USDM and EUDM Outlander service manuals state that this relay is part of the DRL system. I just checked mine and I don't have it either, but the socket itself has connectors for a relay to be put in place

I guess another alternative (again, according to the service manual for a USDM Outlander) is to see if the DRL signal from the ETACS ECU to the relay is used (it may be used to active the low beam relay). This is wire #10 (blue/white colour combo) in connector C-312 at the very bottom of the ETACS-ECU. This ECU is behind the small compartment by the drivers left knee (just yank it out to reveal the fuses and connectors there).
However, since it is at the bottom, it may be easier to take off the whole bottom panel to provide easier access (the panels right below the steering wheel).

Here is a diagram showing the connector location. Should very easy to find:
http://img535.imageshack.us/img535/1...connectors.png
It can also be found in the engine compartment relay/fuse box, but there may be multiple wires of the same colour making it hard to find.

 

just finished installing my drl bypass harness--basically a relay harness with small inline circuit to kill the drl. I'm using it right now and so far so good.

It's plug and play and can be removed anytime. Cost me $45 out the door. Installed with a new HID kit with great results.

It's now a completely manual operation to turn on headlights at night. I'll be checking the reliability in the next couple of weeks but it seems to be perfectly doing its job eliminating the drl's.

Ordered on ebay from hidkits74. He's a good seller. Very quick to respond to issues.

 

Got pics?

 

I can post pics but all you'll see is the lights off and then on.....pretty much the same as the pics already posted on this thread. I'll take some shots Friday evening and post.

It's now the 2nd day since I installed the harness and so far no drl's coming on and I've been driving all day so I'm really happy with the product. Most of all, no cutting and playing around with the car's circuits.

 

Thanks Im just trying to decide if I should put in the HID kit ,....our cars dont have the proper projector lamps so I want to see what it looks like without them...

 

So it completely disables the DRL on the "OFF" and "Dash Lights" position and only turns On in the "Lowbeam" position, right?

What is the difference with this and the harness that DDM tuning is selling? *edit* never mind. I saw that he made a mod on the relay to "bypass" the DRL...

Looks like the mod (seems like a trip switch of some sort) is to cut off the current if the voltage running through is not high enough to power the ballast (less then 12V) therefore eliminating the DRL's since the DRL is powered by only 6V hence giving that dimmed appearance. Hmm... Let me do some research and get back with you.

All we need is any relay harness and that trip switch thingy which probably cost $2 from the shack...

$15-20 for the Harness + $2 for the trip thing = $17-22... Sell it to desperate people like us who wants to have HID for $42 bucks... nice... almost 50% profit.