HID Conversion - the RIGHT way with DRL
 

Ok, here is the story. So I researched many postings and I was not able to achieve this:

1. Be able to turn HID low beam only when needed. HID bulbs have limited lifetime and quite expensive.

2. Be able to keep some sort of Daytime Running Lights, since I'm in Canada.

3. Avoid any factory wire cutting/tapping. Avoid use of capacitor which produces inconsistent results and heat.


I paid 60 bucks for install, but I did not like the result. I decided to see what I can do myself about it...

What you need: 9006 HID conversion kit ~100$, Standard relay harness ~10$.

Basically you do normal installation with relay harness, but you need to switch Low beam and Parking light wires. If you do so, your front parking ligts will work as DRL and once you turn on Parking/Low beam, your HIDs will be on!

Steps:

1. Follow the steps described on the thread below, but DO NOT install capacitor, you won't need it.
https://mitsubishiforum.com/forum/sh...ad.php?t=30486

2. Disconnect large connectors going to head light assembly on both passenger's and driver's sides. (see connector.jpg - notice that I took this picture after I already switched the wires!!!)

3. Slide the "mother side" forward to remove from the head light assembly (see inside.jpg)

4. Pull the orange pin separator/holder out of connector (see removed.jpg)

5. Now you can easily switch the RED (low beam) and the BLUE(parking light) wires. Just use small screwdriver to release the pins from inside and pull them back. Switch their places, push them back into the connector and put orange holder back.

6. Connect large connectors back together. Voila! You can turn/on your low beam HID lights and have your DRL on.

Enjoy! )

Do NOT do this mod, you will melt the wiring harnesses!

No it wont, as all the connectors going into any light are protected by a fuse...which will blow way before anything is able to melt. Perhaps if you bridge the fuses in your fuse box or use direct battery power without an extra fuse, you may be able to do some damage. However, if this is done properly, it will work as the OP described.

100% safe
 

No, it will not burn anything - it is actually safer when using capacitor install that tries to flatten DRL power to 12V... You should try to understand how it is actually done, before speculating that it will burn everything :-). Here is the explanation:
1. Low beam/DRL wiring is used to control only parking lights that use tiny bulbs and require much less power/amps than original low beams.
2. Parking light wiring is only used to CONTROL standard HID RELAY, so minimum amps is required for that(less than original parking bulbs). Also, since parking light circuit produces fixed 12V when turned on, you do NOT need any capacitor that may overheat.
3. HID relay harness is connected directly to battery and has its own fuse to protect HID ballasts/bulbs/wires.

Do you still need to get the relay kit?

Yes, you do need the relay kit to avoid overloading parking light wiring. However, you do NOT need a capacitor - parking light wiring produces steady 12V which is perfect to turn the relay on and off.

hey great write up...plan on doin hids in the future...so i swapped blue and red/white wires on my 2010 outlander...passenger side worked without a problem although on the drivers side...when you turn the headlights on only the passenger side turned on but not the drivers...turned car off and on then tried again, both headlights turned on...again turned car off and on, now drivers side again wouldnt turn on...tried putting a 15 amp fuse rather than 10 amp, that didn't work...ended up having to swap back wires to stock....what are your thoughts? thanks in advance

That sounds like a ballast issue. If you are using a relay kit, only one of the old headlight connectors is used to activate the relay harness which sends power to the ballasts. That means both would either turn on or not...one can't be activated without the other.

no hids...problem is occuring with just halogen bulbs

Sorry, why would you want to do this for stock halogen bulbs? Doing so will put extra load (low beam) on parking light circuit, I would avoid it! The main idea was to use HID WITH relay harness, so load to parking light circuit is kept to a minimum. In my install with relay harness, only driver's side connector is used to operate HIDs. The passenger side connector is isolated and not used at all.

I realized you did it for testing, but it seems that you are putting too much load on the circuit. If you just wanted to test it, I would disconnect passenger side completely and use a voltmeter to observe voltage delivered to the driver's side connector - it should read steady 12V when parking lights/low beam is on. Also, your front parking lights should illuminate as soon as you start the car and put it in drive position.

Also, please make sure that once you decide to switch blue/red wires prior to installing hid relay harness, you have to switch blue/red wires on both sides even though relay harness connects to drivers's side only.

So can the dealer can install OEM HID ? light ? Im in canada.

In GTA, some dealers refused to install HID, others offered aftermarket units. I don't think OEM is available unless installed by the factory. It involves different fuses/wiring/headlight assembly etc...

Hi
I am looking for a right way to deactivate the DRL so I install the HID Kit on a US 2010 Oulander we just got :)

Although that would be enough for me to install it, what I would really love is to switch the DRL from Low to Hi beams but I understand that may prove more difficult if at all possible.

Thanks,
Mick

yeeeeee i just did this to my hid on my 08 outlander that i bought with hid instaled from the dealer ... theyre tech and instaler said that they done hundred of them and i have to drive with the light on all the time , so during the day time i could not see anything in my dash and radio they even sold it to me brand new with electrical tape on the light switch as a reminder to not turn off the hid cause they would start to flicker and burn the ballast or bulb. witch append about four time so far...(good tech and dealer) anyway sorry for the long post just venting ..lollll back onto the subject i did this mod this week end and everything work fine just like normal light on and off when needed and i can see my radio and cluster during the day lolll my car is ``alive`` lollllll and now taking it back to the dealer cause a bulb or ballast burnt again 2 week prior to me getting involved with the wirring... anyway thanks a lots and keep up the good work....

so all you are essentailly doing is switching the parklight wire with the head lamp wire ?

i dont think you need the relay kit either. Think about it those hid boxes dont pull half the current that a halogen bulb alone pulls. I see the point of switching the wires cause the prk light wire will give you the constant 12v signal you need to turn on and keep on the ballast and igniter box.

once you switched low beam and parking lights wiring, you would be using parking lights circuit for HIDs. To be on the safe side, I would still recommend relay harness with its own fuse.

correct. this is needed to provide flat 12V to control HID relay(on/off) and avoid flickering.

i'm glad it helped. i also was pissed of having HIDs on all the time during the day and possibility to kill ballast/relay if I forget to turn them on... too bad dealer/installers don't understand that and take the easiest cash grabbing way :-)

:) thanks again....i was waiting for something like that to come up and i was sure it would be something simple ,but it look like the dealer are just a bunch of !"/$%?&*( and now i have to get the two bulb or ballast change out cause one is burnt out and the other will shut off if i hit fairly good bump on the road...the good thing is that they will waranty the hid for ten years i got it on the contract but i still would prefer to have real expert work on my car. anyway thanks again keep up the good work serego and have a good day. Simon.

just finished this mod.
 

Mod turned out great. Great job OP for the info. I will post pictures later. Its kinda cold here in Tallahassee tonight :-)

Here are a few install notes:

-I purchased a Truss 6000K HID kit for 9006 vehicles from Amazon. Use what you want. I like Truss ballasts and have had good look with them. Set me back about $40 INCLUDING the bulbs.

-Purchased a 9006 HID relay harness for 12.99 with free shipping from Ebay user HIDDISTRIBUTOR Has a fuse and is preterminated correctly. I didn't like the ground harness connectors on each HID ballast plug but it actually makes it a better electrical design.

-Install takes about an hour to rout everything and do it right, mount the ballasts out of the way, etc. Swapping the pins on the plugs is a PITA because there is not alot of slack in the wiring. OP did good to get the pics he got. Its not that hard but it does take a few minutes to get to everything and get it undone, swapped, and reconnected.

-There is an unused lug on the back of the stock battery connector that you can connect the relay to. Mine did not have a nut but a 1/4 will do fine. This will allow you to connect it without anything showing. Looks really nice.

-Light output is very crisp. Cut-off is great. There is no glare or light output above the cut off point. Headlights could actually be aimed a bit higher because the cutoff is so good.

Only Negative:

-I HATE the color of the bulb difference between the HID's and the parking lamps that now serve DRL duty and run when the HID's are on. I hope to find some parking lamps with a closer color temperature. My original thought process was to use LED lighting for them but I am unsure if a 9v square wave signal to them would work. Does anyone know? Or...do you know of a parking lamp that will work with our Outie that is a more "white" and less yellow?

Look forward to pics!

And even a DIY Write up if you can!

As for the DRL's, I've seen a few on here with LED's, and it would definitley work. Thast the only way to get close to the color temp of the HID's and you will get a complete match, There is no way to get that color temp with Halogens.

Is there any company out there that has all u need in the HID conversion? im looking for a aftermarket plug and play. Installers around here dont have a fix for properly installing a HID for the outlander, and i dont want them to mess things up.

order what i posted and do the mod at the begining of this thread and you will be fine. I ordered some LED's for the parking lamps tonight (so the DRL's and the new headlight will be a closer match in color) and will post pics of it all when finished. email or post if you have problems or questions in the meantime. $54 bucks out the door is not alot and it works as described. I could not be happier.

It's even colder here tonight so pics will have to wait. I will post them at the lastest on Weds. and try to do a write up for DIY install. I ordered a couple of "tower" style 194/2825 parking lamp LED's in super bright white and will let you know if they work and if they fit and add them to my DIY install post coming soon........

Update: I bought multi LED wedge lights from JDMTOY that are daylight white for the parking lights. THEY WORK. With the DRL kicked in, brightness is about 80% with just a hint of "tremble" in the light output. You will not notice it until you turn on the lights/turn off DRL and then you will see the output be steady and supposed to a flourecent "flicker" The color of the bulbs stays the same at DRL and Full power. I drive about 500 miles a month mostly in the daytime so I will see how the longevity of the bulbs are in DRL. Right now I am VERY happy with the color and fit/function of the bulbs.

For those wanting to do the mod, the LEDs are a direct swap. To get to the passenger parking light plug, use a socket to remove the bolt that holds the windshield washer filler neck and move it out of your way. To get to the drivers plug, use the same socket to loosen 1 nut of the battery tie down bracket, then remove the bracket completely and move the battery back about 3 inches. Make sure to turn your lights on after installing the new LED light BEFORE YOU PUT IT BACK INTO THE HOUSING. If the lights don't work, take them out and rotate them 180 degrees to change the polarity.
Total time to install both bulbs was about 7 to 10 minutes, including remounting the battery tie down and the filler neck bolt.

DIY write up in the works. I will post pics tonight for all to see though.

Pics...diy!

Here is my setup with LED's.
https://mitsubishiforum.com/forum/sh...ighlight=light

Hello again, im sorry if this question has been asked but its been bugging me. I am interested in putting HID kit in my car. I am looking to buy a specific brand just because i have had them before and i am happy with the results. I am interested in buying the Philips HID kit. Here is my concern, the kit says it comes with a can/bus anti flicker system. what will happen to my 07 Outlander xls with drl's if i were to install the kit without doing any of the mods as described in this thread.

Good question. I never heard about HID canbus killer before. According to its description, it might actually work, but you will have to try and let us know. If it works, your HIDs will be *on* once the car is started(=DRLs on). I would still do my mod, since I needed a way to manually turn HIDs on/off - I did not want them to run all the time.

will do, and will post back the results but some time in February. Christmas kinda wiped me out of some funds lol.

They call them "canbus killer"? If you kill the CAN Bus, your car will not work at all...since it controls everything in the car.
From what I have read, those are only to make sure a "light out" warning doesn't come on on the dashboard. Only a few cars have this.

here is the link, they call it the canbus anti flicker system, I'm assuming its so the light don't flicker do to the difference in power from the drl's and full headlights.

http://www.philipsxenon.com/mitsubis...ips-hid-p-1234

Ah ok, I guess it does both things. I dont see how the ballasts are connected in any way to the CAN Bus on the Outlander...it seems more like a marketing term than actually having anything to do with the CAN Bus. Unless it actually depends on a CAN Bus signal to tell the ballasts that the DRLs are on. I believe some high end BMWs have this sort of functionality, but the Outlander does not.

I'm thinking that's just a built in capacitor to smooth out the current to prevent flicker,and nothing as complicated as it implies.

what ever the case may be, this is the system i am picking up. an will post results when i have them and how they work.

Serego,... I try and it didn't work at all. I thought it was a good way to do it and great idea but unfortunately, it just not work, Igniter didn't work.

please explain?

UPdate if anyone cares, lol. i just recently purchased a Genuine Philips HID conversion kit. It has a CAN/BUS in it ( again what ever that means ) and i will have it installed in a few weeks. things are a tad tight right now, will post pics and update in future.