So recently I got in a 10mph fender bender. Rad was shot however oil cooler in front of rad is okay. Long story short, had to junk the lower and upper bumpers and the rad. Replaced rad and re-installed fans and oil cooler. All is well, did a coolant flush and fill. Only got 3 of the 5 required gallons of coolant in. Im guessing the rest is leftover water that will evaporate over time. Which brings me to my main question;
I've noticed my horn no longer works. It DOES however work when I lock my car with the remote. It doesn't work while driving or while sitting parked. Also I have noticed my AC now blows slightly warm air instead of the ice cold it used to blow. I am aware the Hot and Cold AC brass lines run to the oil cooler. I've checked them, they both are just as they were, maybe a little bent but no cracks and the bent parts isnt anything that would cut off air flow. So 1: I would like some advice on what to check on the horn and 2: Where do I go from here on the AC? I've checked ALL fuses both in engine bay and in the driver side hidden compartment behind the change tray. Advice? Comments? Concerns?

Thanks guys! Also this is my first post, long time lurker but I finally needed to get some answers lol. Nice to meet all of ya.

 

The horns are located directly inside of the front bumper opening behind the license plate frame. Most likely, the leads/contacts were damaged or pulled off during the collision. It's a pain to get up in there, I replaced mine with dual tone aftermarket horns for some more volume and managed to get them into the same space. Another possibility is the housing on the horns has become bent, enough for sound to escape (such as the tweet when locking the car) but not in the correct shape for actually blowing the horn? Either way a set of replacements only cost about $20 at any parts store.

The Outlander V-6 MIVEC doesn't have an engine oil cooler, it has a tranny fluid cooler that is located directly in front of the drivers side wheel under the fog light (you will notice the passenger side scoop is blocked off since there is only a cooler on the driver's side). The service manual only talks about this unit as an 'oil cooler'.

What is in front of the radiator is your condenser and that feeds the AC system. Also under there is a silver tube like attachment called an accumulator/dryer that is required to keep the refrigerant vaporous before heading back into the pax area.

You can have any number of issues under there. A cracked line, a dented accumulator, plus the external temp sensor is located next to the horns. Any or all of these will prevent the compressor from actuating. If the compressor will come on after an attempt to charge the system, then it's a leak for sure. If it won't even come on then you either A: have no refrigerant left in the system or B: any number of electrical sensors is out of range (and there are a lot of electrical inputs involved in modern automatic-temperature-adjusting climate control system). I would suggest going to a shop unless you have the proper set of gauges yourself. It is also illegal to vent the R-32 into the air, including refilling a system you think is leaking. Just an FYI there.

As far as coolant goes; even removing the lower radiator hose won't drain the entire system. The plug would need to be pulled from the back of the block. But I change mine frequently enough to avoid doing this, as it is a real pain. Also, there are lines running all the way around the back of the engine from the radiator that go to the heads and an additional loop through the back of the tranny (go figure, crazy engineers). So all of this fluid is hard to get drained.

Good luck and cheers