I may have been wrong about the sensor but here is how you get it to work. Put the FAST key in the glove box. Lock all doors EXCEPT for the drivers door. Close the drivers door and lock with the manual key. Works like a charm.

However if you lock ALL doors then close the drivers door to exit, all doors will automatically unlock.

 

I can confirm that ckmecha's method works, but here's some additional findings;
- put the key where-ever you want inside, doesn't seem to make any difference (see later note)
- press the Lock button on the arm rest
- not sure if that doesn't lock the driver's door, but either way the handle then opens the door, and when closing it remains unlocked. All other doors remain locked.
- lock with physical key

Notes
- door/tailgate unlock buttons don't respond when the smart section is inside; a very good thing!
- bad thing - seems that the car will start no matter where you stash the key, so break-ins can start it without even needing to find the key. This is where a blocking bag will come in handy if we can figure out which frequencies etc are required.

When I get around to it I'll try the "in the bonnet" trick again and make sure the car won't start with the key there. Might be the overall "safest" option, plenty of spots to hide and you could even rig up an extra box or something that looks like it belongs to the engine. Hardly elegant, but if it stops someone driving off with your car...

 

It could be anywhere in the car, but the whole point of putting it in the glove box was that it is locked with the manual key. Just one more layer of defense to keep someone from stealing the car.

The sensor has a range that the key must be within to start the car. Im not certain if the glove box is far enough away from that sensor as I havent tested that.

 

That's interesting, I've a 2006 Outlander with FAST key (prox key) and can open car normally, pullout key, leave remote in the car and lock without any issues. Could be different software?

 

Meant to add some more experiences but didn't get around to it...

ckmecha, mine starts with the key in the glovebox, and in fact anywhere inside the cabin. So locking the glovebox won't make much difference, as they can still drive off with the car anyway without even needing to find the key.

mark7771, I don't know if it's a software setting that I don't have access to (no MMCS), but on mine the physical lock only physically locks the driver's door, doesn't seem to be tied into the central locking at all. I guess I should look up the circuit diagrams and see if there's any wiring for it, but sounds like all this stuff is dependent on the BCU being programmed to do it, rather than purely hardware?

Now, my harrowing tale. I went for a surf the other week, and used my method of locking the smart section in the bonnet to ensure the car wouldn't start if broken into (yes, this stops it). Put the blade in my boardshorts pocket, which has a built-in elastic rope for this purpose.
There was a heavy swell running, and I got pretty nailed before finally getting out the back and getting a wave. On paddling back out I sat on my board, then felt to make sure the key was there.
S#!t. F@#!. F@#! F@#! F@#! F@#! F@#! F@#! F@#!!!!!
No sign of the key. No sign of the pocket, for that matter! Now, this is a weekday (my rostered day off), and I'm over 100km from home. After freaking out for a while, catching a wave straight in I figured OK, I can call the RACQ (roadside assistance), the smart section's in the bonnet, maybe they can pop it and that's fine, I can drive etc., and the wife has the other key so we can get another blade cut some time.
I reach the beach and am confused as to how I managed to lose the pocket, there's no sign of tearing etc. Then I realise I have a side pocket, not a back pocket! It was there all along!
Needless to say I was both mentally and physically exhausted by this time, so just gave up and went home.

Lesson learnt; install a cord in the bonnet that can be reached from underneath, in case you lose the blade and find yourself in deep excrement. Maybe disguised as an earth cable, with a suitably engine-bay appearing box for the key (eg. spare resonator box, fusebox, etc).
And/or get a spare blade cut and keep it permanently affixed to the bodywork somehow.

 

Attach this to some steel under the car. With the magnets you can pull it off and on as needed without spending too much time in awkward positions

 

Heres another possible option; use a "dead" smart key portion. If the battery is removed it wouldnt allow the smart key to start the car I believe. You would still need the smart portion to start the car with the "dumb" key though because of the RFID chip.

 

On that note, I found out something after yesterday's surf that is probably obvious to most; if you lock with the fob and then open with the blade, the alarm goes off! I must have locked with the internal master last time, this time I used the fob before putting it in the bonnet. Not overly pleasant having your head under the bonnet when the alarm's blaring at you!

So yeah, fob = alarm, master = no alarm. Choose according to the situation.

 

Try taking the battery out of FAST key.

 

Yeah I think that's just about the simplest and safest method. After changing batteries a few times, it seems that they hold their pairing permanently and don't need to be re-paired to the car after a power loss?