Originally Posted by Isophorone

Is this filter only in the 2014-2016 models? I have a 2011 ES FWD and would like to know if it has such a filter as well. I looked in the manual that is posted here and did not find any reference to a filter.

Also, if you drain the CVT fluid, what gasket do you use with the plug? Does any gereic gasket from the auto parts store work, or is there a specific part number? Is it the same as the oil pan plug gasket?

Originally Posted by Hodado

I've noticed many different brands of CVT fluid,which has caused some confusion on my part.Our 4wd 2012 Outback Sport has the Jatco transmission but from what I can tell there is more than one version of transmission used in this vehicle.I am wondering if I can use the Amsoil or one of the other brands I have found or should I get it from the dealer.
Maybe I'm making a bigger issue out of this than I should.Please advise

Originally Posted by sydcouple

What is the best elm327 bluetooth device to use with cvtz50 app

Originally Posted by desbiensl

I own a 2014 Outlander ES (2WD, 2.4L + CVT), it's now 3 years old and I have ~ 90,000 km on the counter.

I experienced two times this summer the "flashing D" situation, basically my CVT was overheating and that got me to research what kind of maintenance is required on those units.

The first time it overheated I was towing an empty trailer (~ 500 lbs, the car is rated for 1250 lbs) and going uphill in mountainous terrain. The second time was during a spirited drive in mountainous terrain, just my wife and I in the car, no cargo.

When it happens the power drops significantly, basically the car goes into limp mode and you need to park the car, pop open the hood and let the car idle so the CVT fluid has a chance to cool down a bit (it is warmep up / cooled down by the engine coolant, see below).

In the regular Mitsubishi maintenance schedule, there is nothing with regard to the automatic / CVT transmission (only inspection of the fluid for manual transmission every 32,000 km)

In the severe Mitsubishi maintenance schedule, the automatic transmission fluid is changed every 48,000 km.

My dealership says they change the CVT fluid every 96,000 km, and once your fluid overheats, it loses its properties and should be changed.

Some basic info :

The 2014 and 2015 Outlander are equipped with a JATCO JF011E CVT transmission, part # F1CJA (2WD) or W1CJA (4WD).

The 2016 Outlander are now equipped with the latest generation of CVT transmission from JATCO (CVT8), part # is F1CJC (2WD) and W1CJC (4WD).

The basic procedure to replace the fluid is a simple drain and fill (through the drain plug and the filler tube) two times (per the service manual), or more if the CVT fluid still comes out dirty (5.5 L per drain over a total of 7.1 L), the drain bolt torque is 34 N.m.

The final fluid level adjustment should be performed with the fluid temperature between 70șC and 80șC (use CVTz50 for that, see below), not higher than the top of the HOT mark at 70 șC and not below the bottom of the HOT mark at 80 șC (refer to the service manual).

If you want to make a more thorough job, you can drop the CVT oil pan, there are two magnets in there and it would be a good idea to clean up the metal shavings (that's what I had done this time). Furthermore there is a metallic filter in the pan (with a metallic screen) that can be cleaned or replaced depending on the condition. (part # 2824A007, google it to see what it looks like).

And finally there is a paper filter in the warmer/cooler assembly where the engine coolant flows that can be replaced (part # 2824A006 and o-ring # 2920A096). The service manual calls for a replacement from "down below", by removing the two plastic covers and work you way up the CVT. It might be quicker but I was not convinced it was the best way to perform the job, with the oil falling on you as soon as you remove the last bolt holding the unit. So here is the procedure to service the CVT paper filter from the top of the engine :

Start to removing the air intake assembly :

Attachment 5051

Attachment 5052

- There are two plastic clips to remove
- You need to disconnect the MAF
- You need to pop out the plastic clip that hold the MAF electrical cable to the air box
- You need to unscrew the collar connecting the air box to the engine intake
- You need to pop out from the air box the pipe at the top of the picture

Attachment 5053

- You can unscrew the only screw holding the air box
- You can remove what is on the negative terminal of the battery as we'll need to remove it next

Attachment 5054

- Remove the complete air intake assembly

Attachment 5055

- Remove what is on the positive terminal of the battery
- Remove the bar holding the battery
- Remove the battery (you can take the opportunity to clean it up and top it off with demineralized water)

Attachment 5056

- The negative cable assembly is attached to the battery tray, pop out the plastic clip holding it

Attachment 5057

- Once the battery tray is removed you can see the CVT warmer/cooler unit between the brackets holding the battery on the frame

Attachment 5058

- You need to unclip this cable assembly which lies on one of the battery bracket

Attachment 5059

- Remove the first battery bracket

Attachment 5060

Attachment 5061

- Remove the second battery bracket

Attachment 5062

- There it is !, there are 4 bolts holding this unit, be prepared as there is a bit of CVT fluid that will flow once it is removed.

Attachment 5063

- The filter is in there, just pull on it to remove and pop in the new one.

Attachment 5064

Attachment 5065

- Don't forget to oil up the o-ring before assembling the unit back up (I didn't change the o-ring this time as none of the three dealerships around had it in stock).

- The warmer/cooler unit bolts require a torque of 5.1 N.m (per the service manual), this is really low and I didn't have an appropriate torque wrench for this, next time I will.

- Follow the reverse procedure to finish up the work.
- You may need to readjust the CVT fluid level after this.

- My dealership didn't even know about this paper filter, they usually just drain and fill and they do it only once.

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Some info about the deterioration parameter :

The temperature of the CVT fluid is continuously monitored. When it is below 50șC it is considered in the "warming-up phase", once it is between 50șC and 90șC, it is considered in its normal state. Each minute the CVT is operated with a fluid temperature between 90șC and 100șC, a deterioration counter is incremented by 1.

When the fluid temperature is between 100șC and 110șC, the increment is 2.
When the fluid temperature is between 110șC and 120șC, the increment is 4.
When the fluid temperature is between 120șC and 140șC, the increment is 6.
When the fluid temperature is above 140șC, the increment is 8.

source: https://www.drive2.com/l/6974861/

I don't know the threshold of the overtemp condition (150șC, 160șC ?), next time it happens I'll try to record it.

The maximum deterioration level is supposed to be at 210,000, at which point a "check engine" or some sort of warning should happen. That translates to 437.5h of operation with a CVT fluid temperature above 140șC, at an average speed of ~ 55 km/h that's 24,000 km. With a fluid temperature above 100șC, that's 1750h of operation or ~ 96,000 km.

At the time of my maintenance (~ 90,000 km) my deterioration level was at 32,000 (2,000h of operating time, 1,000h in the warm-up phase and 1,000h in a "hot" state).

Attachment 5066

Attachment 5067


To monitor the temperature of the CVT fluid and reset the deterioration parameter once you have performed your maintenance you need :


- an ELM327 OBD device (bluetooth or WIFI)
- an android phone / tablet
- CVTz50, an android app which was originally developped for Nissan vehicles but now support our Mitsubishi Outlander (since August 2016 I think). It's very well done and works flawlessly.

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Alternative CVT fluid:
Mitsubishi recommends to use only the Mitsubishi CVTF-J4 fluid. That being said there are multiples CVT fluids out that claim to be CVTF-J4 compatible:

- Amsoil synthetic CVT
- Valvoline CVT fluid
- Lubeguard CVT fluid
- Redline non-slip CVT
- Motul multi CVTF
- Castrol transmax CVT
- Amalie universal synthetic CVT
- Ravenol CVTF NS3/J4 fluid
- BG CVT fluid NS-3 green
- Transguard CVT-99
- Motomaster CVT transmission fluid

I haven’t tested any of them, I stuck to the Mitsubishi 31 $ a pint stuff….this time.

Originally Posted by desbiensl

I personally use this device (WIFI version), it works just fine :

ELM327 WIFI 2.1 OBDII OBD2 Car Diagnostic Code Reader Scanner Tool