Just bought my very first 2011 outlander. Ive been a USA truck guy since I could drive. My wife was floored when I didnt buy another truck..HAHA Just wondering any ideas on how to squeeze more power out of this 2.4...168HP engine. Thanks all.

 

NITROUS BABY... Baboom! There's an underdrive pulley set for the Lancer Ralliart which I think would fit. I've thought about trying it. Road race motorsports sells it.

 

why did you buy the V6 ? its a lots more powerfull then the 4 cyl and no need to change anything.
the only thing you can probably do to 4 cyl, put a K&N air filter, will make the engine sound better, engine breath better, and a little bit more HP. And no need to change air filter no more, just wash it once in a while.

 

K&N air filter will give you slightly better throttle response and tiny bit more horsepower about 2. it will make ur engine breathe better and you never have to replace the filter just clean it with the cleaner kit, great investment.

 

Dude, changing the air filter is not going to do anything for a 4-cylinder that you can feel.

You need to increase the flow of gases all the way from intake to exhaust. You start at the air filter and end at the exhaust tip.

The air intake is probably fine. I don't believe anyone actually makes an air intake for it yet.

OK, now the first restriction past the filter is your throttle body. So you would want to use a throttle body that has been honed and opened up. Talk to the Lancer guys about who makes one.

Next you have your intake manifold. You could have that ported and opened up at a shop.

After that, the air meets your valves. So now you look at cams and headwork. Headwork will be a lot of money, so the easiest thing to do is find a hot set of cams. Again, talk to the Lancer guys on the EVO forums for those. But those are easy since these vehicles have easy head access. Should be a couple hour job to install them.

Now that the air has passed the valves, it is entering the exhaust manifold. Replace the stock one with a nice header. There are a few out there that would work. After the header, have a shop do a custom exhaust all the way back and delete the cat if you want to or don't have regs on emissions.

Doing all of that should net you at least 25HP, maybe more if done well. That would feel a lot different, probably quite snappy against the old vehicle.

 

Good choice on the 2.4.The engine code is 4B12, and it’s a new, lighter, all-aluminum engine. The old 2.4 was an iron block, and considerably heavier.
If you’re not lugging around the 3rd row seat, and if you’re not using 4WD AUTO or LOCK which soaks power, then your little Outlander should feel fleet-footed with crisp handling.
One of the key things to remember is your power-to-weight ratio. She’s roughly 50hp less than her V6 sister, yet the lighter engine will compensate somewhat.
Another key concept is efficiency. If the fuel/air mixture is introduced, compressed, burned and exhausted in the most complete and efficient manner, then a feeling of ‘not having to step on the gas as much’ may be experienced. (Even try a full tank of premium gas – you may be pleasantly surprised!)
If one had many thousands to spend, then the extensive internal boring-out of certain precision electronically monitored components could supposedly be considered (yet, from this viewpoint, not recommended), and the replacing of cams (which were designed to operate in conjunction with the vehicles electronic variable-valve timing system) could conceivably be ‘swapped’, or, considering the more realistic (or less ridiculous) avenue of an intake and exhaust could be a viable option for you instead, if you’re looking for a modest increase.

Curious, though, to know how much a:
1. …‘honed throttle body’ would be for the 2.4, (that won’t trip an engine light, or interfere with the other metering systems)
2. …how much ‘porting’ of the manifold would be ($ labour would be a killer)and, (polishing?)
3. …a custom header would be for this engine.
4. In addition, expect to have extensive computer work done with the help of a dyno (ka-ching/hr!!) to make sure that everything is ‘just so’ AND having extensive down-time due to having the motor torn apart.
5. …how much these cams are going to cost?

 

A Ram-Air intake (low-restriction high efficiency intake) is designed and manufactured in Japan for your specific vehicle by a company that has been specializing in Mitsubishi vehicles for quite some time now, called “Colt-Speed”. They make components for the EVO’s IV thru X, as well as the overseas-only Colt, ‘i’, and Delica D:5, as well as the newly released RVR (A.K.A Outlander Sport in the U.S) and Outlander V6 and 2.4. (www.colt-speed.ca or parent company www.colt-speed.com in Japan – click on ‘English’ to read more about specs and applications)

They do not make pistons, valves, turbo kits or supply chips,etc., yet a stainless steel exhaust is also available, as well as an ignition booster, which promotes the perfect spark every time to ensure the most complete combustion. These non-invasive bolt-on additions will promote efficiency, with increased power as a natural by-product.

Is it turbo? No. Is it nitrous? No.

These are components that have been designed and engineered looking at your personal vehicle’s electronics, delicate air-metering systems and computers, and other components and systems which were designed to work in harmony with one another. They have been designed to compliment the volumetric efficiency systems without altering the basic design and engine characteristics.

Keep in mind, there are many feed-forward, feed-back and piezoelectric sensors monitoring many things, and by playing with the bull a little too much, might just get one the horn…in a big, bad way.
The Colt-Speed products, however, are not cheap. “If you have a $10 head, wear a $10 helmet.” ...

One other thing to possibly consider may be the following: “The chain is only as strong as it’s weakest link” meaning that, your transmission (CVT?) is only designed to handle a maximum amount of torque and pressure, and, if you wanted to Frankenstein a 454 into that little truck, well, you’d probably have to reinforce a lot more than your motor mounts.

The engine is like an air pump, yes. The quicker you can get the mix in, burned and out, means more power. However, engines nowadays are very complex with multiple systems reporting back to a computer or computers.

If you’ve got a lot (a lot) of money, then, maybe (okay, definitely) get a solid quote from a world-class shop before ‘installing the blower’.

Oh, and if you want to lower the car, we don’t recommend cutting the springs. It can adversely affect the handling characteristics of the vehicle, making it dangerously unpredictable. Just an FYI…

Long story short? Let her breathe…properly. Give ‘er a few years before punching ‘er out & giving her the wheelie bars and flame-job…enjoy your ride!

Hope this helps a little.
Cheers!

 

I figured it was only a matter of time before your product-pushing suggestions came to this thread.

So it's called a Ram-Air intake, but why not a "cold-air" intake instead?

If one had a certain amount of money to spend to increase their engine horsepower, say $2000, I think the last thing they would want to do would be to spend $1500 of that on a single item which admittedly has a somewhat small effect on HP, AKA an air-intake.

A 2.0L naturally aspirated engine has relatively small demands for air. As was stated, the engine is an air-pump, and one as small as 2.0L doesn't flow very much air. So increasing the availability of air to such an engine has diminishing returns, because the air is not very restricted to begin with. When an engine has forced induction, such as a turbocharger or a supercharger, an air intake becomes much more important due to the rate and volume of the air being sucked in.

Now if you wanted an intake, I did find this air-intake for $229: http://www.roadracemotorsports.com/s...roducts_id=331

I'm not saying it will work on a Sport for sure, as I just found it and am going to do a little research on it. To me, it looks like it will bolt-up to the Sport with very little modification, since the Sport and Lancer have intakes so similar. The engine side of the airbox portion is literally identical between them. It would just need a minor modification to the air-inlet tract, I believe. I'll do a little research on it.

If you can give me a couple of days, Stcawoods, I will have some info on the current headers that can be fitted to the Outlander Sport. I have been told that standard Lancer 4B11 CVT headers will fit the Outlander Sport with very little exhaust modification. I believe what is needed is a simple flange fitting from an exhaust shop, if in fact the Lancer header does not align with the Sport routing. This would be on the rear section where the CAT meets the header, and should be a piece of cake for an exhaust shop.

Currently there are street and race headers available for the 2.0 MIVEC. RPW has a 4-into-1 race header for $500 and a street 4-2-1 for $386, they are here http://www.rpw.com.au/shop/index.php...hk=1&Itemid=31 and here http://www.rpw.com.au/shop/index.php...mart&Itemid=31

RRM has a header as well. OBX has a pretty nice header that is only $200: http://www.dragtimes.com/parts/OBX-E...616649051.html

About the ignition. Over on the Evo forums, they were talking about the factory ignition and saying that it is actually a pretty good ignition from the factory and does not need replacing. So it sounds like an item you would replace further down the line, after more essential items are replaced.

As far as cams, the Evo X cams are said to work. A good set of them is $500, but cams typically add a good amount of power. Sometimes they are one of the best quick mods you can do to an engine for power. They can also be done in a night by yourself with a few proper tools. I haven't looked into the lift and duration yet that would be good for the Sport, but the options are certainly there.

 

Went back 2 days later and went for the GT,, somewhat satisfied the "itch" .......but still not up to par compared to other jap brands..
but can live with it