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Oil Changing

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  #21  
Old 01-19-2011, 10:51 AM
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Originally Posted by ccernst
cheech, I've been doing 5k intervals since we bought it at 30k miles on synthetic. oil analysis said I had lots of additive left and 7k mile change should be doable. my last change I did 7.5k miles and sent another sample it to be looked at...we'll see the results in a few weeks.
It will be interesting to see the result - please keep us updated. I bet it is absolutely fine and could even stretch to 10k or beyond.
 
  #22  
Old 01-19-2011, 11:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Matt_M
Rreally? I had thought I would get 2 million.

Does it irk you that I feel the need to excessively care for my vehicle more than you do? I don't really care what the forum members say about going 7500 miles, I am changing my oil every 3000 miles, it will be pocket change to me in the long run, and that's that. Every engine builder I have ever talked to has told me to change synthetic every 2000-3000 miles in a vehicle that is driven hard, and I can assure you that I am no grandma. Your driving style may permit you to listen to those forum members and change it at 7500 miles, but that's you, and not me. Sorry.
I change every 5K miles because I am dyslexic when it comes to keeping track of 3K multiples.

5,10,15,20,25, etc are easier numbers for me.
 
  #23  
Old 01-19-2011, 01:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Matt_M
I just paid US $27, for 5 quarts of Penzoil Platinum, and a Fram oil filter included. It is one of the highest priced oils here. The UK seems like a nasty place at times.
Next time pick something better than Fram.
 
  #24  
Old 01-19-2011, 01:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Matt_M
I had always thought about the idea of a valve. It's nice to see someone making them. I am ordering one. Thanks
Originally Posted by benshepherd
The Fumoto Qwik Valve is great. I have one on mine. However, if you order it, you also need the extension adaptor due to the shape of the sump (well, I needed one on my 2006 Outlander LS).
You still have to climb under the car... I don't really see how this makes things That Much better than using a wrench. Maybe I am missing something?
 
  #25  
Old 01-19-2011, 02:03 PM
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BTW here is my last oil change

 
Attached Thumbnails Oil Changing-img00083-20101219-0855.jpg  
  #26  
Old 01-20-2011, 11:51 AM
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I use the Purolator Pureone filters too (it looks like one on your photo) as they always do well in the reviews and are good price and availability.

The Qwik valve route is a personal thing. You are right, you do still have to climb under although it is much quicker and simpler. However, ultimately whether to pay $20 for that convenience is debatable. It is good, however, if you want to take off samples for analysis etc.
 
  #27  
Old 01-20-2011, 12:11 PM
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Yeah, I see how it could be a great advantage to use the valve if you need to drain some oil for analysis.

Also no oil running down my hand and arm would be nice too. And there is no need to find a clean spot to put down the removed drain bolt.

I think I am going to get one of these valves after all.
 
  #28  
Old 01-20-2011, 01:36 PM
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As for the oil filter, I use Purolator PureOne or K&N, whichever one is on sale.

I regularly check SlickDeals for oil deals at Autozone or PepBoys of Advanced Auto that usually offer 5 quarts of oil and a filter for around $25-$30. Very often these deals include either PureOne or K&N or Mobil1.

I use this as my filter choice guide:

http://people.msoe.edu/~yoderw/oilfi...lterstudy.html
 
  #29  
Old 01-20-2011, 05:12 PM
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  #30  
Old 01-20-2011, 07:52 PM
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some more interesting stuff









 
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