Oil Drain plug gaskets
Oil Drain plug gaskets
#5
03-08-2011, 11:06 AM
I've had one rubber/metal one (metal washer with a kind-of thin rubber gromet) that fell apart during the 5th oil change. I replaced it with a solid rubber washer with a replacement plug with a very large flange, which will spread out the pressure and increase sealing area. I'm sure it will last quite a while. When using a rubber seal, you don't need to crush it down...just tighten it enough to make a seal. Been working great for 40k miles this way.
#6
03-09-2011, 02:44 AM
While you are at it,
It's worth looking on ebay for a magnetic sump plug if yours does not have one.
Mine did not and I replaced it with a magnetic one when it had it's first oil change at 6k miles.
At the next one it had picked up quite a bit of fuzz and swarf.
Think most of it was from the production/running in though as there has been next to nothing on the subsequent changes.
I have a load in stock, I personally use copper ones. They should be replaced each time but they are very good at never sticking so you know you will get the plug out!
If you are in the UK pm me as I can post some out for a few quid.
It's worth looking on ebay for a magnetic sump plug if yours does not have one.
Mine did not and I replaced it with a magnetic one when it had it's first oil change at 6k miles.
At the next one it had picked up quite a bit of fuzz and swarf.
Think most of it was from the production/running in though as there has been next to nothing on the subsequent changes.
I have a load in stock, I personally use copper ones. They should be replaced each time but they are very good at never sticking so you know you will get the plug out!
If you are in the UK pm me as I can post some out for a few quid.
Last edited by hotponyshoes; 03-09-2011 at 02:46 AM.
#9
03-11-2011, 02:31 AM
If both surfaces are clean you should not get any leaks without a gasket.
Problem is binding of the plug.
Next time yours is out wipe the sump off clean and you will see a smooth ring around the hole where the plug mates up.
It is this smooth part that forms the seal and is caused by the plug scraping the sump down as you tighten it.
Problem arises as soon as you get the slightest amount of corrosion on the smooth bit.
It won't cause a leak but rather the corrosion will 'swell' and press on the head of the plug making it tight as ******y.
As the threads are a reasonably fine pitch lifting the head a fraction will be enough to make the threads bite and they will strip when you take the plug out.
A copper gasket will allow you to 'slip-over' any slight corrosion, it also works well as a thermal damper as the plug and sump are not made from the same things so expand and contract at odd rates, again, contributes to thread sticking. With a copper washer you just nip up the plug enough to start crushing the washer so it never actually has to be tight enough to stick.
The above may be scare mongering but crush gaskets are cheap as chips.
Sumps are expensive and even if you could get a damaged one repaired for nothing you would have the cost of a sump/engine gasket plus the hassle of getting the sump off then trying to prevent ANY dirt or dust getting onto the bottom internals of the engine while it is exposed a few inches from the ground!
Get a box of gaskets (most dealers will ship small things like that out) and, for the cost, it is worth getting a spare sump plug just incase you notice yours is not feeling smooth one day. Also, never run a cleaning tap etc through the sump unless it is removed from the engine.
I have seen engines wrecked where people have tried to clean the threads out and little bits of swarf have got into the sump.
Problem is binding of the plug.
Next time yours is out wipe the sump off clean and you will see a smooth ring around the hole where the plug mates up.
It is this smooth part that forms the seal and is caused by the plug scraping the sump down as you tighten it.
Problem arises as soon as you get the slightest amount of corrosion on the smooth bit.
It won't cause a leak but rather the corrosion will 'swell' and press on the head of the plug making it tight as ******y.
As the threads are a reasonably fine pitch lifting the head a fraction will be enough to make the threads bite and they will strip when you take the plug out.
A copper gasket will allow you to 'slip-over' any slight corrosion, it also works well as a thermal damper as the plug and sump are not made from the same things so expand and contract at odd rates, again, contributes to thread sticking. With a copper washer you just nip up the plug enough to start crushing the washer so it never actually has to be tight enough to stick.
The above may be scare mongering but crush gaskets are cheap as chips.
Sumps are expensive and even if you could get a damaged one repaired for nothing you would have the cost of a sump/engine gasket plus the hassle of getting the sump off then trying to prevent ANY dirt or dust getting onto the bottom internals of the engine while it is exposed a few inches from the ground!
Get a box of gaskets (most dealers will ship small things like that out) and, for the cost, it is worth getting a spare sump plug just incase you notice yours is not feeling smooth one day. Also, never run a cleaning tap etc through the sump unless it is removed from the engine.
I have seen engines wrecked where people have tried to clean the threads out and little bits of swarf have got into the sump.
#10
03-11-2011, 03:21 AM
If both surfaces are clean you should not get any leaks without a gasket.
Problem is binding of the plug.
Next time yours is out wipe the sump off clean and you will see a smooth ring around the hole where the plug mates up.
It is this smooth part that forms the seal and is caused by the plug scraping the sump down as you tighten it.
Problem arises as soon as you get the slightest amount of corrosion on the smooth bit.
It won't cause a leak but rather the corrosion will 'swell' and press on the head of the plug making it tight as ******y.
As the threads are a reasonably fine pitch lifting the head a fraction will be enough to make the threads bite and they will strip when you take the plug out.
A copper gasket will allow you to 'slip-over' any slight corrosion, it also works well as a thermal damper as the plug and sump are not made from the same things so expand and contract at odd rates, again, contributes to thread sticking. With a copper washer you just nip up the plug enough to start crushing the washer so it never actually has to be tight enough to stick.
The above may be scare mongering but crush gaskets are cheap as chips.
Sumps are expensive and even if you could get a damaged one repaired for nothing you would have the cost of a sump/engine gasket plus the hassle of getting the sump off then trying to prevent ANY dirt or dust getting onto the bottom internals of the engine while it is exposed a few inches from the ground!
Get a box of gaskets (most dealers will ship small things like that out) and, for the cost, it is worth getting a spare sump plug just incase you notice yours is not feeling smooth one day. Also, never run a cleaning tap etc through the sump unless it is removed from the engine.
I have seen engines wrecked where people have tried to clean the threads out and little bits of swarf have got into the sump.
Problem is binding of the plug.
Next time yours is out wipe the sump off clean and you will see a smooth ring around the hole where the plug mates up.
It is this smooth part that forms the seal and is caused by the plug scraping the sump down as you tighten it.
Problem arises as soon as you get the slightest amount of corrosion on the smooth bit.
It won't cause a leak but rather the corrosion will 'swell' and press on the head of the plug making it tight as ******y.
As the threads are a reasonably fine pitch lifting the head a fraction will be enough to make the threads bite and they will strip when you take the plug out.
A copper gasket will allow you to 'slip-over' any slight corrosion, it also works well as a thermal damper as the plug and sump are not made from the same things so expand and contract at odd rates, again, contributes to thread sticking. With a copper washer you just nip up the plug enough to start crushing the washer so it never actually has to be tight enough to stick.
The above may be scare mongering but crush gaskets are cheap as chips.
Sumps are expensive and even if you could get a damaged one repaired for nothing you would have the cost of a sump/engine gasket plus the hassle of getting the sump off then trying to prevent ANY dirt or dust getting onto the bottom internals of the engine while it is exposed a few inches from the ground!
Get a box of gaskets (most dealers will ship small things like that out) and, for the cost, it is worth getting a spare sump plug just incase you notice yours is not feeling smooth one day. Also, never run a cleaning tap etc through the sump unless it is removed from the engine.
I have seen engines wrecked where people have tried to clean the threads out and little bits of swarf have got into the sump.
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