outlander 2.0 turbo diesel engine ---loss of power
#101
Limp mode again.
A little while ago it was suggested to replace the rubber ring on the inlet pipe just before the EGR valve. This has worked for a while however just the other day the pipe blew itself off, several times I might add. This time I replaced the whole pipe which cost nearly £80. Why did I do this , well I have been talking to a Jaguar mechanic and they had a loss of power on one of their cars , it turns out that the intercooler pipes had lost their strength and at extreme heat and pressure the pipes were folding in on themselves. So I took the gamble and bought a new hose, so far the car is working as it should and just this weekend I did a 200 Mile round trip with no hassles . Let's hope this has cured the problem. Could it be that the hoses on the car have over time lost their strength and rigidity .
#103
Loss of power
Might be a good idea anyway . What I find annoying is that when I replaced the pipe the car drove well and lasted for over 3 months with no problem . If it is electrical fault surely it would manifest itself earlier, however it must be related to extreme pressure under hard acceleration. Could it be another hose playing up. Surely someone knows exactly the fault. The car is. 2007 and maybe something is just wearing out.
#104
Okay here we go again. I have driven the car for just over a 1000 miles with no problem . Hard acceleration when needed, and tonight took the Grandis up to 60mph plus and yes it went into limp mode. Thought I had it sussed , but to no avail. Get my head scratching again . Just what could it be.
I got rid of my Grandis because in Finland the turbo replacement would have set me back 1500-2000€. I sold it to a guy with mutual agreement of knowing there is a turbo problem. I deducted the 2000€ from the sales price and got rid of the problem.
#105
Okay here we go again. I have driven the car for just over a 1000 miles with no problem . Hard acceleration when needed, and tonight took the Grandis up to 60mph plus and yes it went into limp mode. Thought I had it sussed , but to no avail. Get my head scratching again . Just what could it be.
#106
Hi guys this is my first post..
I have a Mitsubishi Outlander 2007 I have had for nearly 2 years and have been having the same over post problem, has any one found a permanent fix because I can't bare it anymore, I'm hopefully gonna get it booked in to Mitsubishi tomorrow as the engine light has now come on again but it Is not in limp mode.
#108
I have a Mitsubishi Outlander 2007 I have had for nearly 2 years and have been having the same over post problem, has any one found a permanent fix because I can't bare it anymore, I'm hopefully gonna get it booked in to Mitsubishi tomorrow as the engine light has now come on again but it Is not in limp mode.
#109
I have listed already the permanent fix. Mine never went wrong again. Make sure its overboost 1St which will always put it in limp before you switch off and on again and it will be the variable geometry turbo. Mitsi will only replace with new including manifold and charge you 2500gbp, after a 100gbp initial diagnostic fee. If it is this fault don't waste your money
variable geometry turbo
But best not to take it to Mitsubishi will independent garages replace this and how much did it cost you?
#110
2008 Outlander 2.0 did drastic power loss
Had a drastic power loss with my 2008 outlander 2.0did 122k miles. Happened twice over two weeks, both times the rubber pipe from the turbo to the inlet manifiold had come off (once either end, the one down by the rad offside). Symptoms were; unable to rev over 1800rpm withouut car juddering, driving under 1500rpm enables you to get to 60ish but very slowly. Had a subsequent fault diag done (engine management light never on), this showed 3 codes (673h/1651 672h/1650 671h/1649) all undocumented by garages reader but they seem to imply overboost. My conclusions (amateur).
1. The clips had worked loose over time (garage said this) - job done.
2. The pipe has become weak over time (that will be the next fix if it recurs).
3. Check MAP sensor for signs of damage.
4. Get turbo cleaned as it could be vane sticking issue, could be causing the fault if overboosting.
Hope this helps others and draws on the sterling work of those in earlier posts.
Thank all.
1. The clips had worked loose over time (garage said this) - job done.
2. The pipe has become weak over time (that will be the next fix if it recurs).
3. Check MAP sensor for signs of damage.
4. Get turbo cleaned as it could be vane sticking issue, could be causing the fault if overboosting.
Hope this helps others and draws on the sterling work of those in earlier posts.
Thank all.