Thanks for the help and advices. Wish you all the best.

I usually don't drive fast on the highway which keeps the rpm around 2k and the noise is not an issue.

 

Further about the transmission fluid change, here's my very specific post I submitted very shortly after changing our vehicle's fluid.
https://mitsubishiforum.com/forum/mi...e7/#post327179

 

Thanks for the reply. I watched one YouTube video on this topic. The guy there mentioned that he had some strange shifts with Halvoline and going back to DiaQueen J3. Is this just a bad luck? What do you think?

Here original fluid is also very expensive like 25EUR per liter. Are you aware who is actually producing it? I was not able to find out? Some of the aftermarket full synthetic J3 compatible brands that I found here are Motul ATF around 17usd per liter and Bardhal atf6 for 60eur per 5l.

 

Another thing that I am wondering after reading your post. If there is sertain undrainable quantity of ATF in the system is there a chance of a undesirable reaction when you mix two different atf brands even if they state that they are J3 compatible?

 

Here's the fluid I put in our transaxle:
You will see that at Amazon, it's out of stock, but you CAN and SHOULD read the reviews.
Here's a photo (notice it's full synthetic and DEXRON VI):

As I mentioned in my 2019! (time flies) post after fluid change, the torque converter may not have drained. Regardless, our transaxle has never had a hiccup since I changed the fluid. If you're worried about mixing different brands, just mortgage your house and buy some J3.

This discussion has reminded me to pick up some more Havoline. I've just gotten a quote for $8CAD per litre from a local supplier.

 

Thanks for the advice. I am a bit scared to do the whole procedure. What I can do is only to drain the oil from the pan and do this more frequently. Just have to find the right fluid that is not expensive. I don't thing Havoline is widely distributed in Europe.

 

Let's do some math.To make it easy, assume 10 litres of fluid capacity. Also assume half of the fluid drains from the pan using the drain bolt. You now add 5 litres to fill. If the fluid mixes uniformly, now you have 10 litres of fluid that is 50% old. Now you drain 5 litres and add 5 litres. Now you have 10 litres that is 25% old fluid. Now you drain 5 litres and add 5 litres. Now you have fluid that is 12.5% old fluid. Now you drain 5 litres and add 5 litres. Now you've got fluid that is 6.25% old fluid, which may be acceptably contaminated.

To sum up, you've added 5+5+5+5 = 20 litres of new oil. But in the transmission you still have 10 litres of fluid that is still 6.5% old fluid.

How much is 20 litres of J3 going to cost at 25EUR per litre ............. 20 x 25 = 500 EUR?! Hey, maybe you WILL have to re-mortgage the house! (If you want to experince some heart issues, call up the local Mitsubishi dealer and get a quote from them to do a complete fluid replacement for your V6 using J3. Let us know what they say. Maybe they'll suggest an alternative fluid to J3.)

 

I can tell you right away what is the price of my local dealer here in Bulgaria. They are charging 400usd for total system flush and new fluid. What amazes me the most is that the same procedure in Quebec costs 260usd in 2022 according to the serivice history book. The standard if living in Canada is much higher than the one here.

My idea was to drain the pan on every second engine oil change. Not to try to do whole system flush from the pan method. This way the transmission fluid won't be that old if I go every 50k kms to the dealer to do it. Very nice of you that you can do most of the repairs on your own. When I try to follow some 5 min video on youtube I end up under the car for 2 hours at least.

 

There are only two alternatives. You pay a dealership or someone else to change the fluid with J3 or equivalent. You learn how to do it and change the fluid yourself and NOT spend a pile of money.

(While I'm typing, as I said in a previous post, I changed the fluid in our transaxle 5 years ago. Yesterday I checked my maintenance records and noticed that the ODO reading at the time of that change was roughly 122,000 kms. The ODO today is just below 133,000 km. Therefore, the replacement fluid has been in service for only about 11,000 kms. To replace the fluid or not to replace fluid? That is the question. First of all, transmission fluid is not crankcase oil, the latter of which gets combustion byproducts as the engine runs. There are no such byproducts / contaminants in transmission fluid and we drive our vehicle very gently. OTOH, I don't want to wait long enough for that relatively rare Havoline fluid to disappear from the market, so I should at least buy and store 10 litres of fluid until I do need to change the fluid, but that may never happen if we continue to drive just 2 or 3,000 kms per year. Again, I'm 74, so I don't have many years left. I guess the safest thing to do is buy the fluid and store it, but I won't like taking up shelf space with a big box of fluid. Big problem, eh? )

Edit: I now have 12 litres (2 NOS and 10 new) of Havoline sitting in an acceptably small box in our basement. There it will sit until either the fluid in our tranny has 50K kms of use on it or I'm dead, whichever comes first. In the latter case, my wife can pay for someone's labor to replace the fluid ........... unless she dies before the fluid reaches 50K kms, in which case the relatives can do WTFTW with the fluid and the vehicle.

 

Is the fluid still cherry pink? If yes maybe still good to go with it.
Don't Havoline produce some new type of synthetic atf fluid? Here the Havoline Multi ATF costs around 10USD per liter.
Wish you good health and longevity.