Exactly where did you place the padded jack?

Thanks.

 

Trick to the timing change is to mark the crank and cams before u take the belt off. If you can get the belt off then on without spinning anything you should be good assuming you didn't have timing issues before. That being said last time I did a belt as soon as I took it off the cams moved a bit to where they wanted to sit and I had to get a buddy to hold it in the marked spot to reinstall the belt which as a real pain.

 

Oil pan I believe....used wood as padding

 

Thanks!

I'd like to suggest doing something else that I did on our 1992 Honda Accord when I changed it's timing belt a number of years ago. (We no longer have that great vehicle.)

I hope we can all agree that a new timing belt MUST have the same number of valleys as the old one.

Before removing the old timing belt, make one reference mark on each cam sprocket and crank sprocket, and a corresponding mark on the old timing belt. That is, if you mark a tooth on a sprocket, mark the corresponding valley on the belt and vice versa. To make things easy, mark only the teeth on the three sprockets and only the valleys on the belt, or vice versa.

Remove the old belt.

Now either align the old and new belts, or, alternatively, count the valleys between the marks on the old belt and mark the new belt at the exact same number of valleys or teeth. Be certain the the marks on the old belt are in the exact same position as those on the new.

After doing this, the new belt can then act as a "ruler" to measure the proper "distance" between the tooth or valleys marked on the cam pulleys and the tooth or valley marked on the crank sprocket.

All three sprockets can then be rotated a tooth or two in either direction to get the appropriate tooth or valley on the sprockets to mesh with the correct teeth or valleys marked on the new belt.

When the marks on the belt match the marks on the three sprockets, the new belt and the three sprockets MUST be in the correct position-- no ifs, ands or buts.

Obviously, marking the sprockets, the old belt and the new belt must be made with the greatest of care and precision.

Doing the above is particularly useful if the cam or crank seals are going to be replaced and the shafts get rotated a bit during that process. The new belt can easily get them back into their exact proper rotational position.

 

All great replies, thanks. I'll post updates once I complete this job.

 

Eleven months later.... he hasn't done it. Not very helpful. This forum is weak and the search feature is lousy. Kira

 

There are several other posts on timing belt replacement though. As far as weak, it's all we got.

 

Not not sure if I appreciate your tone Kira!

i tried posting three times 11 months ago, but the server timed out every single time. I wasn’t going to write it again for a fourth time.

But here it is again just for you Kira, I watched the above video 5 times, read everyone’s tips and made notes. I then got my tools, all regular tools, didn’t have a crank tool and took it apart. I had a friend helping me, and I don’t think i would have been able to do it without my buddies help. Getting the timing belt on and off was easy. It’s the other belt that’s hard to get back on! It required some fiddling around.

All in all, if you follow everyone’s tips and watch the video you’ll be fine.

Good luck.