Outlander GT or SEL?
#1
06-04-2017, 08:30 PM
Outlander GT or SEL?
I'm most likely about to buy or lease an Outlander, I started out looking at the GT with touring package but as I researched a little deeper it seems that (for me) there is little I gain over the SEL with Touring Package.
Am I missing something?
Other than the 3.0 liter engine and the six speed box with paddle shifters are there any other differences? I think I'd rather have CVT and better MPG to be honest, my fast driving days are behind me mostly.
Are there any other differences between the two I am missing?
Thanks for any pointers,
Chris.
Am I missing something?
Other than the 3.0 liter engine and the six speed box with paddle shifters are there any other differences? I think I'd rather have CVT and better MPG to be honest, my fast driving days are behind me mostly.
Are there any other differences between the two I am missing?
Thanks for any pointers,
Chris.
#2
06-05-2017, 12:23 AM
You would be WAY better off going the SEL model IMO.
The 4 grand difference just to get the 6 speed paddle shift and tech stuff with fake wood grain isn't my idea of a good deal.
I've got 2 SEL models, a 14 and a 16 model. My 16 has the RRM aluminum pulley and Timing controller, and tho it's not the same or better horse power, it still weighs less, gets better MPG's and has more punch off the line and pic up on the interstate than the GT model. (I proved it on a testdrive with my dealer. lol) Plug N play on the controller, and the pulley is SO simple to change out it funny. (10-15 min. max)
If you really want the power, RRM has a turbo kit for the 2.4, complete that's MORE HP than the V6, and works with the CVT.
The 4 grand difference just to get the 6 speed paddle shift and tech stuff with fake wood grain isn't my idea of a good deal.
I've got 2 SEL models, a 14 and a 16 model. My 16 has the RRM aluminum pulley and Timing controller, and tho it's not the same or better horse power, it still weighs less, gets better MPG's and has more punch off the line and pic up on the interstate than the GT model. (I proved it on a testdrive with my dealer. lol) Plug N play on the controller, and the pulley is SO simple to change out it funny. (10-15 min. max)
If you really want the power, RRM has a turbo kit for the 2.4, complete that's MORE HP than the V6, and works with the CVT.
#3
06-05-2017, 08:11 AM
Thanks for the comments, I appreciate it. Regarding the price difference I am seeing it as closer to $2k - mainly because I want the package that has the multi-view camera and so on which I think adds $4,000 to the SEL price but adds $1,500 to the price of the GT.
I think that makes the technical features the same unless I'm missing something, very interested in guidance if I am misunderstanding. It seems that SELs with that package are hard to locate around me, they all seem to have the other cheaper package - not sure why.
I think that makes the technical features the same unless I'm missing something, very interested in guidance if I am misunderstanding. It seems that SELs with that package are hard to locate around me, they all seem to have the other cheaper package - not sure why.
#4
06-07-2017, 02:27 AM
I've been looking for a car for about 3 months. This week I bought an Outlander GT 2016 fully loaded for $22.8k w/ 20k miles on Saturday. They're asking price was $27,9k with a web special of $25.9k.
You'll love the adaptive cruise control, it keeps pace with the car in front and will stop auto-magically if you exit with a car in front of you..
Always negotiate with a back-up plan in mind. I said there is a 2014 Outlander GT in Portland for 16.8k w/50k miles, but I'd prefer a newer car for the right price.
Although I have to take it in this week to get the radio fixed. It's stuck on the Insert NAV SD card screen. So no radio or GPS, just back up cam till they can get it fixed.
Added a picture of the MMCS Error I'm getting. No idea if I can fix it, but the're fixing it under warranty.
You'll love the adaptive cruise control, it keeps pace with the car in front and will stop auto-magically if you exit with a car in front of you..
Always negotiate with a back-up plan in mind. I said there is a 2014 Outlander GT in Portland for 16.8k w/50k miles, but I'd prefer a newer car for the right price.
Although I have to take it in this week to get the radio fixed. It's stuck on the Insert NAV SD card screen. So no radio or GPS, just back up cam till they can get it fixed.
Added a picture of the MMCS Error I'm getting. No idea if I can fix it, but the're fixing it under warranty.
Last edited by SeattleBrian; 06-07-2017 at 02:34 AM. Reason: add more details
#5
06-12-2017, 02:05 PM
I’m in a similar situation and here’s how I rationalize it. It comes down to 1) how many miles you drivea year, 2) if you want/need to tow (passengers+cargo), or 3) drive inhilly/high elevation?
-If you drive a lot of mileage then cost of fuel will take ahit with the V6. It is an adequate but archaicengine design, not fuel or power efficient to modern standards but reliable. However, if your annual mileage is low (lessthan 12K/year), mpg should not that big of a concern. Would you buy a Prius if you only commute 10miles a day (ok, perhaps you may want HOV privilege if it applies)? You should do some simple calcu to est. gasusage so you can see some hard numbers on operating cost.
-Do you need to tow or often shuffle passengers and/or cargooften? The V6 + 6sp trans (3500 lbs tow)is much stronger/suite for towing over the I4 + CVT (1500 lbs tow). This applies if you need to often towpassengers and cargo!!! Folks tend toforget that while the I4 is perfectly adequate for solo commute with a passengerand light cargo, the I4 WILL be a dog when you carry a car load.
-Do you drive in hilly or high elevations? The V6 will give you more power in theseconditions whereas the I4 + passenger+cargo will really get bogged down in the hills. This is also where the paddles will help withengine breaking and allow you to stay in a lower gear.
The notion to go aftermarket turbo sounds great but is not realistic. The added cost to buy and install it far exceedsgoing with the V6 to start with. You shouldconsider the additional wear, cost of maintenance, and risk voiding thewarranty.
Finally, the biggest thing to consider is NOT the upfront costbut the long-term cost of ownership. Whilethe V6 cost $2K more up front to buy, it will also be worth MORE than the I4come time to sell/trade-in. Sure it willnot retain $2K difference more but definitely a few hundred to $1K more so thenet difference is really only $~1K. Thatsaid, how do you intend to use the car?
-If you drive a lot of mileage then cost of fuel will take ahit with the V6. It is an adequate but archaicengine design, not fuel or power efficient to modern standards but reliable. However, if your annual mileage is low (lessthan 12K/year), mpg should not that big of a concern. Would you buy a Prius if you only commute 10miles a day (ok, perhaps you may want HOV privilege if it applies)? You should do some simple calcu to est. gasusage so you can see some hard numbers on operating cost.
-Do you need to tow or often shuffle passengers and/or cargooften? The V6 + 6sp trans (3500 lbs tow)is much stronger/suite for towing over the I4 + CVT (1500 lbs tow). This applies if you need to often towpassengers and cargo!!! Folks tend toforget that while the I4 is perfectly adequate for solo commute with a passengerand light cargo, the I4 WILL be a dog when you carry a car load.
-Do you drive in hilly or high elevations? The V6 will give you more power in theseconditions whereas the I4 + passenger+cargo will really get bogged down in the hills. This is also where the paddles will help withengine breaking and allow you to stay in a lower gear.
The notion to go aftermarket turbo sounds great but is not realistic. The added cost to buy and install it far exceedsgoing with the V6 to start with. You shouldconsider the additional wear, cost of maintenance, and risk voiding thewarranty.
Finally, the biggest thing to consider is NOT the upfront costbut the long-term cost of ownership. Whilethe V6 cost $2K more up front to buy, it will also be worth MORE than the I4come time to sell/trade-in. Sure it willnot retain $2K difference more but definitely a few hundred to $1K more so thenet difference is really only $~1K. Thatsaid, how do you intend to use the car?
#6
06-12-2017, 08:46 PM
I’m in a similar situation and here’s how I rationalize it. It comes down to 1) how many miles you drivea year, 2) if you want/need to tow (passengers+cargo), or 3) drive inhilly/high elevation?
-If you drive a lot of mileage then cost of fuel will take ahit with the V6. It is an adequate but archaicengine design, not fuel or power efficient to modern standards but reliable. However, if your annual mileage is low (lessthan 12K/year), mpg should not that big of a concern. Would you buy a Prius if you only commute 10miles a day (ok, perhaps you may want HOV privilege if it applies)? You should do some simple calcu to est. gasusage so you can see some hard numbers on operating cost.
-Do you need to tow or often shuffle passengers and/or cargooften? The V6 + 6sp trans (3500 lbs tow)is much stronger/suite for towing over the I4 + CVT (1500 lbs tow). This applies if you need to often towpassengers and cargo!!! Folks tend toforget that while the I4 is perfectly adequate for solo commute with a passengerand light cargo, the I4 WILL be a dog when you carry a car load.
-Do you drive in hilly or high elevations? The V6 will give you more power in theseconditions whereas the I4 + passenger+cargo will really get bogged down in the hills. This is also where the paddles will help withengine breaking and allow you to stay in a lower gear.
The notion to go aftermarket turbo sounds great but is not realistic. The added cost to buy and install it far exceedsgoing with the V6 to start with. You shouldconsider the additional wear, cost of maintenance, and risk voiding thewarranty.
Finally, the biggest thing to consider is NOT the upfront costbut the long-term cost of ownership. Whilethe V6 cost $2K more up front to buy, it will also be worth MORE than the I4come time to sell/trade-in. Sure it willnot retain $2K difference more but definitely a few hundred to $1K more so thenet difference is really only $~1K. Thatsaid, how do you intend to use the car?
-If you drive a lot of mileage then cost of fuel will take ahit with the V6. It is an adequate but archaicengine design, not fuel or power efficient to modern standards but reliable. However, if your annual mileage is low (lessthan 12K/year), mpg should not that big of a concern. Would you buy a Prius if you only commute 10miles a day (ok, perhaps you may want HOV privilege if it applies)? You should do some simple calcu to est. gasusage so you can see some hard numbers on operating cost.
-Do you need to tow or often shuffle passengers and/or cargooften? The V6 + 6sp trans (3500 lbs tow)is much stronger/suite for towing over the I4 + CVT (1500 lbs tow). This applies if you need to often towpassengers and cargo!!! Folks tend toforget that while the I4 is perfectly adequate for solo commute with a passengerand light cargo, the I4 WILL be a dog when you carry a car load.
-Do you drive in hilly or high elevations? The V6 will give you more power in theseconditions whereas the I4 + passenger+cargo will really get bogged down in the hills. This is also where the paddles will help withengine breaking and allow you to stay in a lower gear.
The notion to go aftermarket turbo sounds great but is not realistic. The added cost to buy and install it far exceedsgoing with the V6 to start with. You shouldconsider the additional wear, cost of maintenance, and risk voiding thewarranty.
Finally, the biggest thing to consider is NOT the upfront costbut the long-term cost of ownership. Whilethe V6 cost $2K more up front to buy, it will also be worth MORE than the I4come time to sell/trade-in. Sure it willnot retain $2K difference more but definitely a few hundred to $1K more so thenet difference is really only $~1K. Thatsaid, how do you intend to use the car?
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