Ah, didn't see that. Well at least I can confirm the same layout for the Canadian Outlander.

So I just had a look at the fuses, and there was a fuse for the rear fog lights already present. I took it out and played with every single control on the car but everything still worked. Why would they include fuses for stuff that is not present or not easy to implement?
I know the diesel glow plug fuse is not present...neither is the wiper de-icer and electric tailgate. However, heated/power seats (which I don't have) is present and so are the connectors below the seats. So I would assume rear fog lights should be as easy to implement as well.

I don't like the idea of re-purposing another harness (which I would guess to be the wrong gauge of wire as well) to route power to the back. However, I do want it to look 100% stock. I am thinking maybe run new wires to the back. Where do the rear fog light contacts terminate for the North American Outlander? Do they simply go into another harness that has no connection? If so, where?


I also looked through the programmable ECU options, and among rear fog lights there is also "idle neutral control" and "S-AWC" for the 2007 year Outlander which are disabled by default and are finally available in 2010!
Another interesting feature is the fast blinking rear brake lights if you brake suddenly and AF-S lights (not auto leveling only)! I forgot what else I saw, but it sure looked like some fun future add-ons

 

Ivanz... out of curiousity, were you browsing the actual ECU, or were you looking online somewhere?

If the actual ECU, what are you using, and does your method have the ability to write to the ECU?

I've used VAG-COM on my Jetta TDI, and there are several EURO options I enabled like the windows rolling down with the fob, the number of blinks on the lane changer, etc... and wonder if similar things can be found in the Outie.

 

No, I was looking at the service manual which lists all of the options set in the ECU. You need a MUT-III tool to change these, which costs quite a bit. VAG-COM cables that can do coding, on the other hand, cost $50-100.

FYI you can change some settings (like the lane change blink) if you have the MMCS (i.e Navigation Unit). The manual says to bring it into the dealer if you do not and they will change it for free during the first year or so.

 

I've seen the MUT-III, it's prohibitively expensive. I wonder if something like the tactrix open port could/would be able to change any values necessary.

Could I get details on the service manual you are using?

Thanks

 

I posted a reply to your thread to keep this one relating only to rear fog lights.

 

Ok, did some more looking at this, and finally found the C-311 connector (thing plugged in at the very bottom) at the cabin fuse panel located behind the drivers left side storage box (just open and pull on it, and it will open).

As batman47 said, it was not connected on pin #14. However, the wire harness itself does have the LG (Light Green) wire and it seems to terminate behind the black tape. You can see it at the bottom left above the light blue and white/blue white
I didn't want to cut it and see whats behind there tonight, as it was quite dark and I only had a camera.
Now I need to find where C-311 terminates, and find F-22 and F-19. Any ideas? I hope I don't have to take out the rear subwoofer in order to find it!



Likewise, for the actual fog light switch...there is nothing to indicate a new stalk is needed. Regardless of if front fog lights are present or not on the Euro Outlander, the same switch is used to activate both. However, other diagrams are clearly labeled with a separate "if front fog lights present" for the rest of the hardware needed for the front fog lights. This leads me to believe only coding of ETACS is needed for it to work, and not an actual Euro column switch.

 

I just spent over an hour taking out the subwoofer and was not able to find F-22 at all. Does anybody know where it is exactly? I hope it doesn't involve taking off the whole back panel side trim at once...

 

Would you please explain how you removed the dash (DASH BEZEL
) to get access to the speedometer/Tac area in this picture?

 

Sure, from tcp member steps:

Step 1 - remove both vent outlets on either side of the display. They are just in place using tabs and pull right out.
Step 2 - remove two screws and three lock tabs on lower part of the dash
Step 3 - remove single screw holding upper dash in place from behind left vent outlet.
Step 4 - remove upper dash piece by pulling towards the steering wheel. Tabs are marked. One connector needs to be disconnected
Step 5 - remove three screws holding display in place and remove single connector on rear

 

Thank you.