This post isn't a question but rather a tip to hopefully help others that may run into this issue. Note - I've referenced this forum previously so I figured it's time to contribute!

My 2010 AWD 6cyl Outlander had an issue last week where the right rear wheel speed sensor failed. I know this based on the results my code reader provided as well as what the dealership told me as I was hoping it was covered under the 100k warranty (which it was not). I opted to buy the sensor and replace it myself. Little did I know what I a PITA it was going to be!

If you look around on this forum and on others, it seem fairly common that speed sensors get stuck in Mitsubishi vehicles (not just Outlanders). So as luck would have it, my sensor as stuck. Really stuck. It broke off flush with the wheel hub (which is fits into) when trying to remove it. I tried drilling a small hole into it and then screwing in a screw which I then tried to pull out...but still no dice. Finally I just unbolted the 3 mount points for the rear wheel hub as well as the flange nut and just pulled on it and worked the drive shaft out (of the hub, not the diff). From there I was able to see the other side of the sensor and determine I could drill the whole thing out. So I drilled out the entire sensor and then work out the remaining debris. Like I said, I PITA.

But the fun didn't stop there! To test how the new sensor fit I tried installing it and quickly found out it was going to be as tight as the old one. There is no way I could have installed it without tapping or even hammering it in. I really don't understand why this is the case and I suspect the tolerances just aren't as good as they should be between these two parts. FYI - I did buy a genuine Mitsubishi sensor, it was not aftermarket ($180 for those that might care). I ended up using fine sandpaper to remove the 'nubs' that where either there to provide extra friction to hold it in (which was definitely not necessary) or where left over from the plastic casting. In either case, I removed them and then coated the section of the sensor housing that contacts the hub (not the tip that actually does the sensing) with silicone gel/grease. After doing that I was able to insert the sensor by hand although it was still very tight. For those that haven't done this job and might be wondering, the sensor is held in with a bolt and if you don't line it up properly before inserting it, you're supposed to remove the sensor and reinstall it (according to Mitsu instructions you should NOT pry it to line up the bolt once it's installed). I can guarantee you that without me sanding and lubing this sensor there would be no way of me removing it without breaking it. I'm not even sure I could have installed it without breaking it if I hadn't sanded it.

Anyway, after putting it all back together the fault went away and I was able to clear the code. The car once again drives normally!

 

Too much to read, but I did read the last sentence. Glad it's running again. Welcome to the forum!

 

Put it in the freezer for 24 hrs it will shrink enough to fit easily.
This is called a shrink fit.

 

I'm wondering why this wouldn't be covered under the warranty? I'm thinking this is my problem since my ABS, ASC and 4WD service lights all came on after this happened: It felt like the engine did some type of burp (don't even know how to describe it) then the skid light came on but the road was dry and I was cruising. It did it again, then all the lights came on. Maybe just an electrical thing as the systems failed? I had a flat 2 weeks ago then replaced the brakes, bet I know which sensor it is...crap!

 

speed sensors are covered by warranty. I had one go out before my 60k mile warranty was up. it put the transmission into a "limp home" mode. it threw some codes that the dealer could identify easily. I'm going to guess my post on here about it was somewhere in 2009-2010.

 

Thanks for the reply. It seems your posts only go back to 2012. Do you think there is any chance that this thing just came loose from the brake job a few weeks back?

 

https://mitsubishiforum.com/forum/mi...ts-outl-43412/

I highly doubt it would have been bumped loose. The sensor itself is bolted down to a knuckle of sorts, which is behind the hub, which is behind the rotor. The wire coming off the sensor is long enough to connect to the chassis. I can see a very inexperienced tech dropping something and damaging the wire...but that would be obvious to look at. here is a pic of the sensor: http://www.rockauto.com/getimage/get...A0844591-1.jpg

 

Thank you for the insight. I was at 63,000 miles. They covered the part but I had to pay for the diagnostic and the labor, $80 each. This was one month ago, now I have a seized caliper and I'm beyond pissed. I really loved this car but with these two problems so close and just outside the warranty period I've had it and will probably start looking for something else.

Also, turns out the bad sensor was on the passenger rear, not the one which had the flat. I did read that the passenger rear and driver side front are the most likely to fail.