OK, So i recently got my exhaust leak fixed on my 2003 FWD outlander. Its helped my MPG get back to normal. But i want to see what else i can do to make it better (maybe even improve the performance while im at it )

First i was thinking - the spark plugs aint been changed since...ever as far as i know. shes got over 110,000 miles on her. I do make long trips often, so seems like a good idea...i think? Anyway, i been looking at these plugs


Here is their web site for more exact info.
The world's most powerful spark plug from Enerpulse

They aint tooooooooooooooooooooooo expensive. Could be worth the investment if they actually do what they say.

To aid in their quest of sparking and such, I figure that a good spark plug wire must help in this process...right?


But of course, there's got to be the heart of the operation. Now, my ignition coils runs fine, but if i want a more powerful spark, gotta get better than normal ignition coil...i think? (or so it seems to make sense in my head...)

so, twas thinking this



Now of coarse all these things SAY they can help with fuel economy, but the million dollar question is - Will they?

These parts all work together, so in theory if i upgrade them all together I would see a small improvement on MPG...right?

You'll have to excuse me, i'm not really the kind of guy that does things to his car on his own. I don't know much more than the average bear. But thats why im here - to learn.

So tell me if they parts are worth it, what i did wrong, what i can do better,etc


i just realized i may have herped and derped on the set up, but its late at night and i cant brain today.

 

Skip these plugs, go with Autolite,Bosch or NGK.

otherwise it sounds like a normal tuen-up. Which engine? Has timing belt ever been replaced? that would go a long way to engine life extention.

 

to my knowledge, i don't believe the timing belt has ever been replaced.

Are there any specific plugs from Autolite, Bosch or NGK that i should be looking for?

 

The correct heat range for your motor. There is no "best" one. Personal preference is AutoLite.\

And change out the timing belt.

 

Did you consider starting with the basics instead of jumping to the drastic measures? lol


Most basic ways to improve fuel economy, based on physics.

More resistance = more fuel, SO, lower your resistance. Properly inflated tires make a big difference. A skinnier, lighter, and different height tire can make a HUGE difference. The different height will depend on where you drive more. A shorter tire will be better around town, but a taller tire would net you gains on the expressway. They DO make tires designed for better fuel economy.

Another simple way to get better gas mileage is actually free! (Well, so is inflating the tires, I guess): Reduce weight! Do you have extra crap in your cargo area? I know a lot of people like to remove their spare tire and tools (usually around 50lbs savings!) but I personally like having them.

Lastly, is the engine. As milliesdad suggested, a thorough tune-up is always good. Make sure the injectors are nice and clean (Personal recommendation would be SeaFoam) and also a new air filter or even an entirely new air intake would be the best bang-for-your-buck. My K&N filter improved my Outlander Sport mileage by about 3MPGs, consistently. Cold air intakes are better for performance, but I have read a lot that says a shorter "hot air" setup actually improves MPGs. Don't quote me on that though.



Overall, for about half of what those plugs cost you can gain 2-4mpgs. Tires filled, air intake, and weight reduction. Any more than that and you're best off getting a tuner and reflashing the ECU with a more economical profile.

 

I did in fact do most of the basics (didn't post that i did -my bad)

Its winter where i live right now, so i have my snow tires on. Rest assured, they have been properly inflated. I did remove a nice amount of weight a while ago including the spare. However, luck favors the prepared, so I put the spare back in. =P

I did get new air filters, But nothing too fancy.

I don't think iv ever cleaned the fuel injectors. That's certainly something i can try.

I almost always drive it in semi auto (i don't know what the proper term for it is).

I always shift at 3000 RPM, and while on the high way - keep it in 4th (which is the highest gear) and use cruse control at around 60MPH.

All and all i think i do decently when driving, just looking for that little extra help.

 

Well, you seem like you're on the right track then. One note, I know in my 2011 Sport w/ the CVT, that when you use the manual shift mode/paddle shifters (I think that's what you are referring to by 'semi-auto'? Unless you just like to drive around with a firearm? ) the car will automatically increase the RPMs a few hundred. IDK if this is just for faster pedal response feel or to help create a "buffer" for user error in using too high a gear for the speed, or what. So using the shift mode would probably be a good idea for accel/decel but not for cruising. Again, this is on my 2011 with a CVT, so this may be completely irrelevant for you.

Again, there looks to be a difference between our models, but 3k RPM seems high. My 2.0 w/ CVT will accel at about the same rate as traffic @ around 2k-2.3k RPMs up to over 50 MPH. Maybe you could back the shift point down a little? I know I accel a LOT slower when on a desolate road just to save some MPGs and this can make a considerable difference in my Avg. MPG readout.



I'd try a performance filter, honestly. For around $40 shipped from Amazon a Cosworth (Oil-less) or K&N (Oiled) filter, they will pay for themselves over an OEM replacement through gas savings AND the fact that you just wash them and re-use them. My K&N was such a big difference, I did the math and it paid for itself after 6 tanks of gas. That's six weeks of driving for me! So for the last 6 months the $40 "investment" in the filter has actually been saving/making me money. 14 gallons X +3MPGs = an extra 42 miles per tank. At the OEM EPA Estimates of what, 24 MPGs that's almost 2 gallons worth of driving extra per tank. So 2 x $3.50 = a savings of almost $7 per tank.



Short of any of this, I'd say your best bet is to get the engine tuning software. Do you have a MIVEc engine?

 

They arnt really peddle shifters, since its part of the actual shifter. You put it in drive, and move it to the right and there is a gear up and down. It does not affect the RPM, it actually tends to lock the RPMs to a very specific zone of my choosing. Just like when i drive an actual manual. But i always shift at 3K because thats how i was tought when i learned manual a number of year ago. Obviously i only shift when accelerating. Once i get to the speed i need, i go to the highest gear it allows and then curse control. The manual feature allows me to force it to stay in the highest gear.

I'm not sure about what engine i have specifically. However, i did make a video of it if it helps.

I'm very new to this, so i may be wrong about things. Feel free to correct my info in the video.