Yeah i took my car to "the best place in town" guy popped the hood and said i don't wanna even get started with it . And yeah i checked the sensors at my work cuz i was wicked bored and they're 125 and 100 bucks. that mechanic told me to take it to a dealer, and i started laughin and said i'll do it myself,lol
and yeah dms's are money pits, more than other cars, as of now this is deff. my last eclipse the only other dsm i'd get anytime soon is an evo which i hope to get into soon

 

dont mean to sound like an *** guys ...
but last i checked universal 4 wire sensors can be had dirt cheap !!!
and as long as your not colour blind im sure anyone can cut off the wires off the old sensor and match it to the new unit and soter and heatshrink the connections.
i mean theres 4 wires:
2 black for the heater element
1 purple or blue ground reference from chassy or ECU
1 gray or white signal to ECU

how hard is that..
and if anyone gives you the not OEM speech tell them to shove it cuz i spoke to several reps from Bosch and NTK and they all said the same thing:
the sensors are basicly the same besides the wiring and thats what you pay the extra for unless its being used on several other vechicles and thats where the price drop occurs and manufacturing costs fall.

anyways...
i ran into problems like this several times and solved it with the universal units.
cheaper and works just as good if not better.

 

yeah or if you don't wanna do that you can always cut off the old connector and just match up the wires. Don't ask me why but at my job i've heard some customers say that the universal ones don't last as long, don't see why they wouldn't. And for the universal ones, they are a pain in the ba*** to do the way the manufacturer wanted you to do it. They give you all these pieces and want you to "make your own plug" outta it. and yeah it is the same thing except for the plug

 

Well I just changed the alternator and found out the old one wasn't bad. I also put on the recirculated valve. And so far nothing changed,haha but yeah it has to have boost leaks, cuz whenever I rev it the rpm's drop all the way and it stalls out. So hopefully tuesday I can do a boostleak test on it. And I watched the volts on the battery, they moved from 12.2 up to 13.4 volts, just wondering if that's normal

 

ok so today i tried moving my car after doing the alternator(turns out the old one was good) and the car died and the battery light came on, and it's not the alt. and it can't be the battery cuz i changed it at least 8 times in the past month. you guys know what else it could be?