Mitsubishi Outlander The new crossover from Mitsubishi, mixing the usefulness of an SUV with the size and convenience of a sport wagon.

battery problem

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Old 07-22-2015, 11:22 AM
jald3rd's Avatar
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Default battery problem

I notice that my 2011 outlander sports is draining its battery everytime I leave the door open even for a few minutes, which before I don't have a problem. what do you think is wrong. thanks
 
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Old 07-22-2015, 11:48 AM
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I'm going to take a shot in the dark and say it's probably the battery but without testing you can't say for sure.

Is this the original battery? (It should have a Mitsubishi label on it if it is)

You need to get a meter and check it...If you don't have one you can buy a digital multimeter for less than $20.

You need to check your battery voltage after sitting for a few hours with the doors shut and everything off it should be around 12.5

You then need to check the voltage when the car is running, it should be around 14.3

If those two tests check out that means the battery has and keeps a charge and the charging system is working properly.

You can also take your car to any auto parts place and they can load test your battery.

If you make it past that point you should be able to switch the dome lights off and see if the problem goes away.

If it still doesn't find the fuse for the dome lights and pull it, see what happens then.
 
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Old 07-22-2015, 07:47 PM
jald3rd's Avatar
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Originally Posted by Guyfromhe
I'm going to take a shot in the dark and say it's probably the battery but without testing you can't say for sure.

Is this the original battery? (It should have a Mitsubishi label on it if it is)

You need to get a meter and check it...If you don't have one you can buy a digital multimeter for less than $20.

You need to check your battery voltage after sitting for a few hours with the doors shut and everything off it should be around 12.5

You then need to check the voltage when the car is running, it should be around 14.3

If those two tests check out that means the battery has and keeps a charge and the charging system is working properly.

You can also take your car to any auto parts place and they can load test your battery.

If you make it past that point you should be able to switch the dome lights off and see if the problem goes away.

If it still doesn't find the fuse for the dome lights and pull it, see what happens then.

thank you sir for your help. after checking that the battery is still good, i tried to open all the door with the dome light switch off and the cargo room light on(no switch to turn it off), after 20 minutes ( check the battery voltage(good) before starting) the engine struggle to start, but it run. then did the same thing without the fuse, it starts right away. the only problem with no fuse, theres no light at night if i need it. what do you think the problem is? thanks again
 
  #4  
Old 07-22-2015, 08:48 PM
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I don't think 20 minutes should kill the battery... I had my lights on for over an hour while I was installing my backup camera I only just barely had trouble starting it.. (it may have even been a couple hours, plus a few starts)

It sounds like you either have a strong draw on the battery (short or something) in the circuit or the battery just isn't able to deliver high amps anymore...

Ideally post the numbers you got on the meter when you reply.

First you should use the voltmeter on the battery again and see the 12.6 or whatever and then with it still connected start the car and see how low the battery drops.. It shouldn't go under 10v and it should quickly jump to 14.3 or so (you'll need a 2nd person to do this it only drops for about a second)
If it goes under 10V when starting the battery is likely gone. If it goes over 15 when it's running you may have a problem with the alternator as well.



You can try an amp/draw test with your meter:
-Disconnect the (-) black cable * make sure it isn't touching anything
-Put your Red lead in the A or AMP side of your meter
-Set your meter to 10A or 20A mode if you have it
-Put one lead on the black cable from the car and one on the negative terminal on the battery (colors of your meter leads don't matter for this test)

Open the door and see what the draw is leave only the cargo light on.

Be warned though if the draw is happens to be greater than your meters max current (10A 20A whatever) you will blow a fuse in or your meter doing this test.

**If the fuse that you pulled is under 10A you should be fine as if it was drawing over 10A it would blow the fuse however if something else is pulling power it's still possible to blow your meter with this test so be warned!

You'd also want to see what the battery is rated for that will help identify how long it should be able to run... Hopefully it has a CCA or AH or CA rating on it (cold cranking amps, amp hours, or cranking amps).

If you don't want to do the draw test or you can't find a rating on the battery I would take it to an auto place (autozone, canadian tire if in canada, pepboys) any of which should have a free load tester you can use...

The battery just has a couple long threaded rods with bolts holding it in place, it should be easy to take out and bring into the shop.. They will hook it up and it should be able to tell you if it's not good anymore, plus if they think the battery is the problem they will be able to sell you a new one on the spot and save you coming back for the core.

My factory battery was toast after about 4 years (I noticed it had some plugs where you could add water which may have been the problem) I replaced mine because the voltage kept dipping when it got cold to the point the car wouldn't start. Now it works like a champ.
 

Last edited by Guyfromhe; 07-22-2015 at 08:55 PM.
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