Your probabaly fine w/ the fuel. I dont have dsmlink but post the logs when you get some.

 

No problem. I got the ecu to connect last night (after i reattched the fuse box wires that I thought were the alternator leads) Everything seems ready to go. I'm still wrestling with the sway bad link. I actually broke my dremel bit last night trying to cut it off. Other than that I filled the tranny and transfer case with oil and reinstalled the passenger head light after cutting down that side's hood pin. I also reattached the downpipe to the cat. I had planned on swapping all the exhaust gaskets, but the bolts are too rusted and I can't get the impact wrench in there without a lift. So, the list for today:
Find the draw on the fuse box leads
install driver side hood pin
bleed clutch
bleed coolant system
remove sway bar linkage and install all applicable parts
prime oil pump and oil cooler (probably will drain the battery completely by doing this)
start engine and check for leaks (I know there will be some)
Install front strut mount bar

 

Make sure you get a video of the start up.

 

I will have to get it on the next go around. The engine started and idled well, however i think the OBX fuel rail is garbage. Fuel was just flowing out of the passenger side. It only idled for about 20 seconds and I already have a leak. Its so frustrating to have all these setbacks. I finally got the sway bar link replaced. I gravity bled the clutch line and slave cylinder. The draw on the electrical system was fixed by removing the amp fuse from the interior fuse box and the interior lighting fuse from the underhood fuse box. It narrows it down, but its still a lot of stuff to check. Installed the strut tower brace, but will have to remove it again to get the fuel rail out to fix it. All and all I'm pretty much done. New to do list:
Driver side hood pin install
adjust clutch
fix fuel leak
Idle and check for oil and antifreeze leaks
Install front bumber
Its going to be a fun night........

 

ok, fuel leak is from the OBX fuel rail. The pieces that the fuel lines mount to don't create a seal within the rail, but they are non removable. I'm thinking that liquid JB weld might do the trick, but its just annoying that it leaks to begin with even though its brand new. Found a small oil leak already on the oil return line. Removed the oil coated bolt, cleaned it and the mount with brake cleaner, coated with ultra grey and reinstalled. I'm sure there will be more, but i'll fix them as they present themselves.

 

That sucks I replaced my oil return line 3 times and it still leaks. I had a new oil pan, new oil return line and all new oem gaskets and hardware. It annoys me so much.

 

I feel ya brother. It wouldn't be bad if it was just a drip that caused a small puddle, but because of where its at, the down draft of the wind under the car splatters it everywhere. I hate cleaning up oil. When i put the engine back together I used RTV on almost everything. Cam seals, oil return, oil feed (instead of using teflon tape), sending unit, oil filter housing... basically everywhere I could use it, I did. Of course, there is still that leak, so i don't think its going to help at all.

I JB welded the fuel rail... so in about 24 hours i'll reinstall it and try again. I'm sure even if thats fixed there will be something else leaking. I should have left the timing cover off until I idled it.. just to make sure the cam seals, main seal, oil pump, etc. was sealed properly. Oh well. F-it... Do you think they offer ASE Master certification for DSM owners?

 

Fuel rail is good... injector o-rings were leaking from putting the injectors in and out of the rail replaced those and now there is an oil leak. I said screw it since it wasn't that big and went for a little drive. tons of power and ridiculous torque were awaiting me. other then the head ache of finding the oil leak i would recommend this swap to anyone. I used to be able to keep my turbo from spooling if I was easy on it, but I accidently hit 22 psi of boost in 2nd gear. Oil pressure is a little high, but I may have overfilled the crankcase. changed the oil after the drive though so I should be good now. I haven't even played with DSMlink that much, but just by capturing all the data from the drive... A/f was good. timing was good. i have to check the fuel trims since I didn't log them, but other than that everything is going well... oh and that stupid oil leak

 

Nice sounds good, and thanks for the injectors I got them sat. Where is your oil leak coming from?

 

I'm glad that you got them so soon. Hopefully they work out better for you! They were pretty good injectors. I maxed them out at 27 psi on a 50 trim so you should be pretty good for a bit. Who knows where the leak is coming from. When I started the car I had a little drip from the turbo return line, but when I got back from the drive the whole underside was coated. There is also oil within the timing cover... could be the valve cover gasket, but I'll see more when i take off the lower timing cover. It could just be that the high oil pressure while driving pushed oil past the seals, or that return line just sprayed all over because of the wind... we'll see though. I'm going to pull the timing belt and once everything is patched up I'll use a drill to spin the oil pump and hopefully get enough oil pressure to see if there are any more leaks.