i replaced the fuel filter about 2 weeks befor i did the swap. and i sprayed starting fluid on the couplers while it was running 1 by one to see if it would pick up rpm to check for a big boos leak but i didnt see any differance. whats a better way to check for a boost leak? the only cel i have is egr malfunction cause i disconnected it since i dont need emissions. but i since then i cleaned it and reconnected it and it still ran the same. i was told locally that it was my biss. i will adjust it but i dont see that a base idle adjust ment will cure the stalling at higher rpm with no load. could it possible be a plug that was gapped wrong? i gaped them allright around.028

 

The biss will only effect what your rpms's stays at while at idle. But if your car is misfiring and the rpms are fluctuating then that wont be the proble. Maybe the MAF sensor is bad or something. There is only three basic things to check. And you can only just go through each of the components. The first is the ignition system which it seems to me that you have ruled it out. The next would be the fuel system. Maybe some fuel cleaner would do some good. And the other is the air system. (boost leak, vacuum leak, MAF, ect.) You could maybe try some seafoam also to try and clean this out a bit. Problems like this are always a pain to diagnose. Especially without being able to see the car in person

 

Here is doc on idle surge: http://www.dsm.org/how-tos/tttt/tttt3.html

 

thanks ill check that out and let you all know what happens.

 

What CAS & ECUare you using?

 

One thing i would check is get a test light and ground it out and go up and down the plug wires. I bought a brand new set and it had a bad wire that would arc every now and then and cause same issue you will be able to see the sparks hold it about 1/4 in away from wires while testing. This is a simple fix but most of the time it is what you least expect it to be.