ok i took the head of the 2.0 and compared head gaskets it all lines up i will have to get the 4 oil holes pluged so thats killer now its time to build up the block.
Thanks to those guys who know what they where talking about.

 

The head you have is from what year car?? and the Block you have is from what year car? everything will line up BUT the head sits the opposite way so when you go to button everything up how do you plan on hooking in the timeing belt when the 4G63 cam gear on on the right side and the crank pulley of the 4G64 is on the left? I am not trying to be a dick I am just trying to see if you have looked at it this way. because the EVO8 head faces the same as the 4G64 does but the 4G63 head from a 1G\2G DSM is the oposite.

 

OK READ THIS AND THIS IS PROOF THAT THE SWAP WILL WORK AND I ALSO SAT THE HEAD ON THE BLOCK AND IT SEEMED TO LINE UP.
There are two goals of project 4G64. The first is to take a 2.4L (non-turbo) 4G64 engine block and combine it with a 4G63 (turbo) head. The result, a 2.4L turbo charged DSM! This is 20% more displacement than the stock 2.0L 4G63 block. The theory is that this this conversion is that simple - putting a 4G63 head on a 4G64 block with custom pistons. While I'm at it, I'm also going to upgrade the A/T with a shift kit and end clutch to give the transmission firmer shifting and more durability to handle all the power we'll be making. I'm also going to do as many mods and improvements that are "easy" to do while the engine is out, and many basic mods such as gauges, intake, and BOV. The second goal of Project 4G64 is to perform the 97+ Eclipse conversion on the body of a 95 Eagle Talon Tsi AWD A/T. This entails replacing the front and rear bumpers, headlights, and taillights.
The goal of this page is to document the entire process of the project including costs, vendors, and parts lists to provide guidance to anyone else who wants to do this. I'll try to be thorough and document all the little things that seem to crop up in big projects like this
4G64/4G63 HybridDetailed Plan:Purchase 4G64 long block from local junk yard. Strip it and take block to machine shop and have them order and install custom pistons and rods and fill oil holes. Also have machine shop port all intake manifold, exhaust manifold, O2 sensor housing, and whatever else makes sense. Sell leftover 4G64 engine parts on Ebay.
Purchase 1G 4G63 DOHC head, have it rebuilt and take it to machine shop to be installed on block.
Purchase 1G intake manifold, throttle body, and other parts as mentioned on http://www.roadraceengineering.com/1...waptechtip.htm, and have machine shop modify 1G head for CAS.
Purchase and install instrument console bezel, boost gauge, EGT gauge, and boost controller.
Powder coat valve cover, jet hot coat (or similar) the exhaust manifold, heat shield and misc. other parts.
Journal
Notes I ended up with a 9.1:1 compression ratio with my setup.
The J&E Pistons are part number 201673 with a bore of 3.415, clearance of .0040, invdome depth of .245, comp dist of 1.385, and the pistons mass 344 grams. These figures are from the spec sheet I was given.
Frontier Machine shop will turn around heads and long blocks in just a few weeks. The reason it took so long on mine is I had them do a lot of custom stuff for the 1G head swap and there was a 6 week or more wait time for the custom pistons.
1G Head Swap issues not mentioned in RRE instructions:
Plan to extend 3 wires going to coil pack because of 1G location vs. 2G location.
You'll have to find a place to mount the 1G Transistor if you don't want to extend all of those wires.
There's a bracket with a bunch of small vacuum lines on the back of the 2G intake manifold/throttle body that will not mount to the 1G setup.
I fabricated a bracket to hold the 1G intake manifold, I do not know if the 1G bracket would have worked. Be sure to acquire the bracket with the manifold, I think it will work.
If I remember right, you'll have to grind a bit of the intake or engine mounting bracket to get the rear engine mounting bracket to mount up nicely.
You'll have to plug one of the large holes and one of the small holes on the 1G water neck. I used old sensors from the Galant engine I bought.
You will need the threaded nipple on the rear of the water neck to connect the water line going to the heater.
When pulling and installing the engine, it's easiest to do it with both the engine and tranny together.
The bushing inside of the crank is replaceable. It's hard to get out, but it must be done. Then your tranny will just bolt right into place.

 

ok like I said I am not tryong to be a dick, I only was on the other threads because I thought you came here to bust our ***** like a few others that joined only to ask ?s and not want an answer ( mainly NON TOXIC) so I will apoligize for that.

No I still dont get how you will fit that on yes it will all line up and the head studs will fit but the cam gears are on one side and the crank pulley is on the other? I attached a pic of my 4G64 before I turboed it. My question is the 4G64 block you have face the same way as that? is it a 4G64 block from a 2G spyder? and does the 4G64 block in the spyder face opposite of the one in the 3G? As I always thought the 2G and 3G 4G64 faced the same. I they face the opposite then ok I see where you are going with this, and since I have never owned a 2G 4G64 I did not know and I am wrong.

Im not trying to burst your bubble or make you look bad. I know I can be wrong we are all human. I am just trying to see this from you point because I am lost on how this will work. So correct me if I am wrong

[IMG]local://upfiles/3652/702DB7E8DFC54FEE9046ADB0A08E6868.jpg[/IMG]

 

emonz has a good point with the timming gear things but i was positive that the swap was possible, matter fact i have reccomeneded to some people that wanted to make serious power.

 

I'm telling you....its worth it. All that torque is a huge positive in my opinion. Ive loved every bit of how reliably mine's run too. Plus its always fun to see other people do stuff like that.

 

Well I was told that the earlier year 4G64 models were not the same as the 3G so what that means is it should all be on the same side and work without a problem. So I was wrong there. Now I gotta ask what is teh advantage between useing the 4G64 block/4G63 hybrid over just useing a 4G63 and a strocker kit? I mean both will have very similar displacement and a strong bottom end. is it just the raritly factor or is it merely because you can pick and choose every thing you want to use for the build up as an individual rather than a kit ?

 

i think the guy should give better details of the engines that he is working with. just saying the 4G64 doesn't tell us anything since it comes in both the 2G and 3G. but both 4G64 are different.

 

True point but it is my fault for assuming it was a 3G 4G64, same thing different way thats all