AKILEZ, so you are saying that if broken in motormans meathod, the car will idle rough? And if broken in easy it will not? I"m not necesarrily looking for more HP, just a good reliable car for years to follow.

 

It almost sounds to me that like those folks rode it too hard for too long? If you read what I previously posted and what motoman stated, you'll see that you go in steps and not full on full blast.
What does your statement mean anyway, Alex? This is so vague. It almost sounds like you're trying to imply that their motors blew up or something. If you only know half the story, don't try to tell the whole story by filling in the blank spots. That's how misinformation comes about.

I put my rebuilt motor on a 400-500 mile trip shortly after it was running. Then again, after my car was brought to me, I got on it a few times like motoman's way before getting on the interstate.
If you've been around motors long enough, you can tell what a smooth running motor feels like. My motor is pretty smooth, even with the balance shaft removed.
...and again, so is my wife's van with a 3.8L V6. It doesn't matter what motor you have. Motoman's method is based on dirtbikes.
Why your motor ran rough at idle is beyond me, maybe you did something different, maybe you just needed to change your oil or plugs...I couldn't tell you.

Here's the point motoman's method....to seat the rings before the crosshatch get worn down by the rings unevenly. If you read that article, then you'd understand it a little better and why you don't go full on.
What's the point of taking it easy on the motor? Why do you drive it easy the first several miles? What's different about day 1 as opposed to 3 years after buying the car when driving your car is concerned?
It's the same thing with the barrel of my guns. Factory states to heat cycle before shooting many rounds through them...pfft, I shot 500 rounds through my 40 cal the first day I got it. My glock is still as accurate now as it was that day (I'm not saying that my aim was/is though, lol). I don't get why I have to heat cycle it because it was done at the factory many times before even getting put together.
When I buy something new, it will do what it's supposed to do the first day. Otherwise, I consider it to have a manufacturer defect and if that's the case, it needs to go back.

What are you guys afraid of cycling the motor in this way?
Josh, I'm hoping you've done it to your new car.

OP, I'm sorry to get on my soapbox bro. I'm not trying to convince you do this method, I'm just telling you that I've done it and I've seen the easy method done and that the easy method does not mean that the motor will last forever or even for the next 10 years, it just means that the rings will eventually seat, but not before the crosshatch is worn down (easy method).

 

Drive it like you stole it. Motoman's method works.

 

OP, no he's not saying that doing the fast break in will cause you motor to run rough. He's just saying that there might be something wrong with his motor...haha. No really, that's your ECU/sensors trying to get the idle right. It's catching up if you will. I notice that with my motor.....only when I go from a higher RPM and a load to idle and no load. An example of this is getting off the interstate/highway and instead of keeping the tranny in gear and letting the motor help slow you down until the RPMs are closer to idle RPMs, you put it into neutral. You've just violently dropped the RPMs, that's a shock to the ECU/sensors....don't you think?
If you're talking about automatics..I call BS, unless you drop it into neutral from a higher RPM.
However, if you're noticing your motor shaking a lot. You might need new motor mounts.

Besides, you're not rushing anything but seating the rings and you're not even rushing that. You're forcing them to seat evenly.

 

It is really up to you. You can drive it the way they told you if you know how to do it or just drive it the way you wanted to be.

I drive mine rough but not all the time.....good luck

 

It goes like this....high load, engine brake, cool off...rinse and repeat while going up in gears and you'll seat those rings right and right now and not later when the crosshatch marks on the cylinder walls have shimmed off enough to leak oil into the cylinders when the motor is "old", not to mention it will give you the lower end of the "serviceable" compression specs when done the traditional way.
You don't go full blast full load all day long btw.

I understand not to drive like this all day, but how does this translate into miles? 200 mileshard- (oil change)-then 800 easy?

 

for me I drive hard meaning driving it very fast forawhileand then I drive it slow after 15 to 25 minutes of driving fast 80 mph and then 65 mph.

1st gear rpm should be on 4000 then change gear to 2nd with the same rpm rate... do that with all gears until you reach 5th gear then drive it fast.

it work for me it should work for you. just rest the engine after driving fast meaning slow driving again.

 

I'm changing my cars every 3 years and they have 180 000 + miles on it after i'm done with them. I purchased 6 new cars since 2000.I drive 60 - 65 000 miles a year. I drive them like i stole them. I like to push it sometimes too. Take it easy first 1000 miles, but once in a while step on it. After 1000 miles just drive it . Why you want to change oil aftr 150 miles or so ? That's just waste of money. I never change oil sooner than 5000 miles, any car. Right now i own 08 Lancer GTS ( 5 speed ) with 20 000 miles on it and 07 Outlander with 7500 miles on it. Guys, you pampering those cars to much.